How to diminish under-eye circles?

Characterised by a bluish to purplish pigmentation, vascular dark circles are the result of a slowed blood microcirculation. Indeed, when the capillaries fill with blood and dilate, the vessels become more visible, particularly due to the thinness of the skin around the eye contour. Additionally, poor lymphatic circulation prevents proper drainage of blood pigments, which accumulate and show through the skin. Vascular dark circles are particularly noticeable on fair skin. Fortunately, several techniques can help to reduce them.

The use of cosmetic actives that enhance blood circulation.

To alleviate congested blood vessels and thus diminish the appearance of bluish dark circles, it may be beneficial to apply cosmetic actives with draining properties, such as caffeine, vitamin K, or immortelle essential oil. These three actives have indeed shown that they are capable of improving microcirculation, via different mechanisms: caffeine accelerates blood circulation, vitamin K strengthens vascular walls, thus promoting lymphatic drainage and microcirculation, and immortelle essential oil inhibits the synthesis of nitric oxide, a compound contributing to fluid stagnation.

The combined effects of caffeine and vitamin K on the eye contour have been the subject of a clinical trial conducted with 11 women presenting with dark circles. For four weeks, they applied eye patches composed of 3% caffeine and 1% vitamin K in an emu oil base. At the end of the study, a reduction in the visibility of dark circles was observed in all volunteers. Thanks to their effects on blood circulation, these two active ingredients therefore seem interesting for reducing vascular dark circles.

Carboxytherapy.

Carboxytherapy is a non-invasive technique that involves injecting purified carbon dioxide under the skin. Naturally present in the body, this gas works by dilating the blood vessels, which improves local blood circulation and increases tissue oxygenation. Carboxytherapy is therefore commonly used to reduce bluish dark circles. It is generally recommended to have one session per week for five to six weeks to achieve noticeable results.

The interest in carboxytherapy, combined with the prior application of a 20% lactobionic acid solution, a gentle exfoliant, was studied in a recent clinical trial involving 39 individuals with vascular or pigmented dark circles. A significant improvement in the appearance of the eye contour was noted in 82.1% of the individuals. The results show more pronounced effects in individuals with bluish dark circles.

The vascular laser.

The vascular laser is another treatment option for bluish dark circles. Emitting at wavelengths between 500 and 600 nm, this device targets haemoglobin, one of the main pigments in blood. When the laser light is directed towards the skin, it is absorbed by the blood vessels located beneath its surface. This triggers coagulation and the gradual destruction of small vessels, which helps to improve local blood circulation and reduce the visibility of bluish veins beneath the thin skin around the eyes.

Radiofrequency.

Bluish dark circles can also be diminished through the use of radiofrequency. By emitting high-frequency electromagnetic waves, this technique generates heat in the deep layers of the skin. This stimulates the production of collagen and improves the skin's firmness, thereby reducing the visibility of the underlying blood vessels. Depending on the intensity of the dark circles, one to three sessions spaced a month apart are necessary. Apart from a possible warming of the skin and some transient redness, radiofrequency is a safe method for the skin.

Hyaluronic acid injections.

Filling Technique Well-known, hyaluronic acid injections help to reduce dark circles, regardless of their type, for 12 to 18 months. Hyaluronic acid injections into the dermis increase its water retention capacity, which allows the tissues to tighten and restore volume to the eye contour, thus reducing the hollow of the dark circle. Moreover, by densifying the skin, they can decrease the visibility of coloured dark circles.

A relatively recent clinical trial involving 49 patients with combined dark circles, that is, both coloured and hollow, achieved good results. The volunteers received an injection of a gel composed of a mixture of cross-linked and non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid, amino acids, glutathione, vitamin B6, and lidocaine, an anaesthetic. The average satisfaction of the participants at the end of the procedure was rated at 9.97/10 and the effects of the injection were visible for approximately 12 months. As for the side effects of the treatment, three patients developed a small bruise and two exhibited slight swelling, but these marks faded after a week.

The pigmented dark circles, or brown, are a specific type of dark circles predominantly found in individuals with darker skin tones. They are caused by a natural overproduction of melanin around the eye contour. The resulting hyperpigmentation often has a genetic origin, although it can be exacerbated by prolonged exposure to the sun, triggering the process of melanogenesis. While it is challenging to treat brown dark circles, certain methods can nevertheless lighten the eye contour.

The use of depigmenting cosmetic actives.

Some active ingredients can help combat the overproduction of melanin associated with brown under-eye circles, thereby reducing their appearance. This is particularly true for vitamin C and resorcinol derivatives. While vitamin C is primarily known for its antioxidant properties, it is also capable of inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme that facilitates the conversion of tyrosine into melanin. This action results in a reduction of melanin content in the epidermis and could potentially help to lighten the periorbital area, although clinical studies would be required to confirm this.

Regarding resorcinol, and more specifically 4-hexyl resorcinol (4-HR), its anti-melanogenic effect has been confirmed in a recent double-blind clinical trial in which volunteers were given a 3% niacinamide formulation or a 3% niacinamide formulation coupled with 0.4% 4-HR. After applying either for 12 weeks, a significantly greater improvement in pigmentation and skin tone uniformity was observed in those who applied the treatment containing 4-HR. It can be hypothesised that this effect could be replicated in the area around the eyes.

The peeling.

Exfoliating agents, such as glycolic acid or lactic acid, can also help to reduce brown circles. Indeed, by eroding the horny layer, they contribute to eliminating excess melanin and reducing hyperpigmentation. A study involving 15 people notably demonstrated the beneficial effects of the weekly application of a gel containing 3.75% trichloroacetic acid and 15% lactic acid on periorbital hyperpigmentation. After four weeks, excellent improvement was noted in 7 patients, good results were observed in 7 others, and an average reduction in the visibility of the circles was measured for the last one.

The laser.

Useful in the case of vascular dark circles, the laser can also act against pigmented dark circles. However, a different type of laser is used for brown dark circles: the fractional laser. This emits at a specific wavelength, usually between 1064 and 1550 nm, which allows it to target melanin. When the laser light penetrates the skin, it is absorbed by the melanocytes. These cells, which contain melanin, are then fragmented and destroyed, thus reducing the brown pigmentation around the eyes. Several studies have shown that this technique can reduce periorbital hyperpigmentation, whether used alone or in combination with the injection of Nanofat, a substance derived from adipose tissue.

Note : As mentioned above, hyaluronic acid injections can also help to diminish brown under-eye circles.

Structural dark circles, or hollow dark circles, are characterised by the appearance of a pronounced shadow under the eyes. The facial bone structure accentuates the hollow, making the contours of the eye socket particularly visible. Genetically predisposed, this type of dark circles can also be due to significant weight loss. Ageing can also be a factor as it tends to thin the fatty pockets of the face. Hollow dark circles are the most challenging to treat, although solutions do exist.

The injections.

Hyaluronic acid injections are currently the preferred method for eliminating structural dark circles. As previously described, this technique allows for the restoration of volume to the periorbital area, thereby filling in the hollow. However, the results it can achieve are temporary and last between 12 and 18 months. For a permanent effect, it is necessary to consider lipostructure, also known as lipofilling, a practice that involves injecting fat cells harvested from other parts of the body into the eye contour area. The aim is to rebuild the natural fatty cushion of the dark circle.

Although highly effective, it is important to understand that liposculpture is an invasive technique, performed under general anaesthesia and requiring hospitalisation, unlike hyaluronic acid injections which can be administered directly in a medical office. However, when performed by an experienced surgeon, this operation carries relatively little risk. The only slight asymmetry in the result can sometimes be observed, which can be corrected with a touch-up liposculpture.

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