Several techniques can be used to reduce the purple discolouration of vascular under-eye circles.
The use of cosmetic active ingredients that enhance blood circulation.
To decongest blood vessels and thus fade bluish under-eye circles, it may be beneficial to apply cosmetic actives that possess draining properties, such as caffeine, vitamin K or even immortelle essential oil. Indeed, these three actives have been shown to improve microcirculation, via different mechanisms: caffeine accelerates blood flow, vitamin K strengthens the vascular walls, thereby promoting lymphatic drainage and microcirculation, and immortelle essential oil inhibits nitric oxide synthesis, a compound that contributes to fluid stagnation.
The combined effects of caffeine and vitamin K on the eye contour were the subject of a clinical trial involving 11 women with dark circles. Over four weeks, they applied eye patches formulated with 3% caffeine and 1% vitamin K in an emu oil base. At the end of the study, all volunteers showed a reduction in the visibility of their dark circles. Thanks to their impact on blood circulation, these two active ingredients therefore appear promising for mitigating vascular dark circles.
Reduction in the visibility of vascular dark circles over time.
Source: AHMADRAJI F. & al. Evaluation of the clinical efficacy and safety of an eye counter pad containing caffeine and vitamin K in emulsified Emu oil base. Advanced Biomedical Research (2015).
Carboxytherapy.
Carboxytherapy is a non-invasive technique that involves injecting purified carbon dioxide beneath the skin. Naturally present in the body, this gas acts by dilating blood vessels, which improves local blood flow and increases tissue oxygenation. Carboxytherapy is thus commonly used to reduce bluish under-eye circles. It is generally recommended to undergo one session per week for five to six weeks to achieve convincing results.
The benefit of carboxytherapy, combined with the prior application of a 20% lactobionic acid solution, a gentle exfoliant, was investigated in a recent clinical trial involving 39 participants with either vascular or pigmented dark circles. A significant improvement in the appearance of the eye contour was noted in 82.1% of individuals with vascular dark circles, suggesting the value of carboxytherapy for bluish under‐eye shadows.
The vascular laser.
The vascular laser is another treatment option for bluish under-eye circles. Emitting at wavelengths between 500 and 600 nm, this device targets haemoglobin, one of the main blood pigments. When the laser light is directed onto the skin, it is absorbed by blood vessels beneath its surface. This causes coagulation and the gradual destruction of small vessels, improving local blood circulation and reducing the visibility of bluish veins beneath the delicate skin around the eyes.
Radiofrequency.
Bluish dark circles can also be reduced by radiofrequency. By emitting high-frequency electromagnetic waves, this technique generates heat in the deeper layers of the skin. This stimulates collagen production and improves the skin’s firmness, thereby reducing the visibility of underlying blood vessels. Depending on the severity of the dark circles, one to three sessions spaced a month apart are required. Aside from a possible warming sensation and some transient redness, radiofrequency is a safe method for the skin.
Injections of hyaluronic acid.
A well-established filler technique, hyaluronic acid injections help to reduce dark circles, regardless of their type, for 12 to 18 months. Hyaluronic acid injections into the dermis increase its water retention capacity, which allows the tissues to be tightened and to restore volume to the eye contour, thereby diminishing the hollow of the under-eye area. Moreover, by re-densifying the skin, they can reduce the appearance of coloured dark circles.
A relatively recent clinical trial conducted on 49 patients with combined dark circles—both discoloured and hollow—produced favourable results. The volunteers received an injection of a gel comprising a mixture of cross-linked and non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid, amino acids, glutathione, vitamin B6 and lidocaine (an anaesthetic). The participants’ mean satisfaction rating at the conclusion of the procedure was 9.97 out of 10, and the effects of the injection were visible for approximately 12 months. Regarding treatment side effects, three patients developed minor bruising and two experienced slight swelling, but these marks subsided after one week.