Hair and winter: how to safeguard the health of your scalp?

When temperatures plunge and daylight dwindles, the scalp is exposed to multiple winter stressors. Cold outdoor air, combined with dry indoor heating, disrupts the skin’s moisture balance. As a result, the scalp becomes drier and may feel taut, itch or develop small visible flakes. It is common to observe an itchy or dry scalp in winter. Moreover, during this time of year, we tend to cover up more with hats, scarves or hoods, which creates friction and can lead to irritation.

But winter is not confined to dryness: it also encourages the onset or aggravation of dandruff. Several studies indicate that seborrhoeic dermatitis and dandruff follow a seasonal cycle, with more pronounced flare-ups during the colder months. The graph below, depicting monthly Google search trends for the term “dandruff” in the United States from 2015 to 2019, clearly highlights this pattern.

It is suggested that the lack of natural light and the associated hormonal fluctuations could stimulate sebum production. This lipid-rich environment then favours certain scalp yeasts, such as Malassezia, which contribute to inflammation and accelerated cell turnover, processes typical of dandruff. Thus, dandruff may become particularly noticeable in the hair during winter in some individuals, even if they do not suffer from it at other times of the year.

Key takeaway : Between increased dryness and exacerbated dandruff, the scalp is placed under considerable strain during winter and must be protected.

When the cold sets in, the scalp tends to become more sensitive and new hair-related concerns emerge. Fortunately, there are several simple measures to preserve comfort and maintain an environment conducive to hair health.

Select an appropriate shampoo.

This recommendation actually holds true throughout the year. We suggest choosing a sulfate-free shampoo, compounds whose irritant potential and ecological impact are far from negligible, especially during the winter months for the former, when the scalp tends to become more irritated. Sulfates can indeed disrupt the skin barrier by stripping away some of its protective lipids, thereby weakening the hydrolipidic film and promoting dryness. It is therefore preferable to choose gentler cleansing bases, such as glucosides or acylglutamates, which are better tolerated by the scalp. Moreover, shampoos enriched with soothing actives such as colloidal oatmeal, aloe vera or calendula are particularly beneficial in winter for reducing feelings of tightness and restoring comfort to a dry scalp in cold weather or an itchy scalp during the winter months.

If you are prone to dandruff or you notice it appearing as winter approaches, it is nevertheless essential to incorporate an anti-dandruff shampoo into your routine, specifically formulated to tackle this issue. Certain active ingredients, such as ciclopirox olamine or piroctone olamine, have indeed proven effective at targeting dandruff and reducing flakes. Ideally, you should alternate this kind of shampoo with a gentle, hydrating shampoo: the first addresses the cause of dandruff, while the second maintains scalp comfort and prevents irritation. Anti-dandruff serums, used between washes, can also be a valuable complementary solution.

Moisturise the scalp.

Like facial or body skin, the scalp is covered by a hydrolipidic film that protects it against dehydration and external aggressors. In winter, this film is weakened by the drop in humidity and the dry air from heating, leading to increased insensible water loss. To compensate for this deficit, the weekly application of lightweight vegetable oils, such as that of jojoba or that of sweet almond, can help strengthen the skin barrier. Meanwhile, the hair serums containing glycerine or hyaluronic acid can provide immediate and long-lasting hydration to the scalp, thanks to their ability to retain water in the stratum corneum.

Regularly exfoliate the scalp.

As previously explained, in winter the scalp is particularly exposed to dryness and the build-up of dead skin cells, exacerbated by indoor heating and dry air. Exfoliating the scalp once or twice a week helps to remove these residues, reduce the formation of dandruff and limit irritation linked to winter conditions. Maintaining this habit throughout the year also promotes better absorption of subsequently applied treatments. It may also help to curb hair loss in winter, since a healthy scalp supports hair growth.

Limit sources of heat.

To counteract the biting cold outdoors, one might be inclined to overuse heat-styling tools, such as the hair dryer. However, repeated use, as well as that of straighteners or curling tongs, can compromise the skin barrier and exacerbate scalp dryness. To maintain its balance, we recommend setting the temperature to a warm level (ideally below 50 °C) and, with regard to the hair dryer, holding it sufficiently far from your scalp (around 15 cm away). The prior application of a heat-protective treatment containing film-forming polymers or hydrolysed proteins can also help limit heat-induced damage.

But heat does not come solely from hair-styling tools: indoor heating also plays a significant role. Air that is too warm and dry accentuates the insensible water loss from the scalp and promotes irritation. Therefore, even if it can be tempting, it is advisable to avoid overheating your home in winter (ideally between 19 and 21 °C) and to maintain sufficient relative humidity, for example by using a humidifier or by placing a bowl of water near radiators. This simple adjustment helps to keep the scalp comfortable and concurrently reduces your electricity bill.

• EBLING F. & al. Seasonal changes in human hair growth. British Journal of Dermatology (1991).

• TAIEB C. & al. Sensitive scalp: Does this condition exist? An epidemiological study. Contact Dermatitis (2008).

• ABRAHAMS C. & al. Seasonal and daylight saving time fluctuations in Google searches for scalp seborrheic dermatitis. Surgical & Cosmetic Dermatology (2021).

• PATNAIK S. & al. An assessment of the safety, efficacy, and tolerability of a novel scalp treatment regimen combining a hydroxy acid-based scrub and copper tripeptide serum in the management of seborrheic dermatitis in adults. Cureus (2024).