Mascara serum: everything you need to know about its composition.

Mascara serum is a cosmetic product for eyelashes that occupies the boundary between treatment and makeup. Like the mascara traditional version, this hybrid formulation is used to create a continuous film of wax on the surface of the eyelashes, as well as to impart colour, length and volume to enhance the eyes. However, it is distinguished by its action on the hair follicles, stimulating lash regrowth and yielding natural, long-lasting results.

The mascara serum consists of a tube containing a tinted emulsion with a curved applicator brush—volumising, lengthening, comb-like, bristled, hourglass or even conical—imbued with a colouring agent to coat every lash from root to tip. Predominantly in black, it is also offered in various hues: brown, blue, green, plum...

A mascara serum is formulated on the same principle as an oil-in-water emulsion:

• Solvents: They act as a medium in which the various ingredients mix. The main solvent used is demineralised water (INCI: Aqua (Water));

• Hydrophobic film-forming agents: They provide a film-forming texture to the product and confer adhesion to the lashes, offering extended maintenance of lash curvature, long-lasting wear and resistance to running or flaking by coating the lashes with a protective film. They may include the carnauba wax (INCI: Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax), hydroxyethylcellulose, polyurethane-99, etc...

• Thickening polymers: These components provide thickness and viscosity to the formulation while enhancing its stability. They may include Senegal acacia gum/arabic gum (INCI: Acacia Senegal Gum), xanthan gum (INCI: Xanthan Gum), etc.

• Active ingredients: They confer additional properties to the mascara serum (lengthening, fortifying, regenerating, etc.). Whilst some nourish the hair follicles, others strengthen the lashes to reduce breakage or encourage growth. They may include castor oil, ginseng extract, provitamin B5, pea peptides or even argan oil.

• Emulsifiers: Surfactants are used to ensure a uniform blend of the aqueous phase with the oil phase. They function by dispersing oil droplets into the aqueous solution to form a stable emulsion. They may include cetearyl olivate (INCI: Cetearyl Olivate), of thesorbitan olivate (INCI: Sorbitan Olivate), glyceryl stearate (Glyceryl Stearate), etc...

• Pigments: Mascara serums are characterised by caring for the eyelashes while colouring them. In this case, plant-derived or mineral pigments are incorporated into the formulation to impart colour. This can include iron oxide (INCI: CI 77499), carmine (INCI: CI 75470), titanium dioxide (INCI: CI 77891), etc...

• Antimicrobial protective agents: They are essential for preserving the product. Indeed, these compounds prevent bacterial growth and maintain the properties of each active ingredient. Examples include sodium benzoate (INCI: Sodium Benzoate), tocopherol, which also acts as an antioxidant to prevent the oxidation of vegetable oils, potassium sorbate (INCI: Potassium Sorbate), etc...

At Typology, we have developed a mascara serum that guarantees both a make-up finish and eyelash care. In other words, it instantly delivers supersized lashes and provides continuous treatment day after day. Indeed, it nourishes, revitalises and enhances lash appearance over time, while stimulating length, activating lash growth, and caring for lashes from root to tip over the long term.

The mascara serum is a direct oil-in-water emulsion, meaning it consists of an oil phase dispersed within an aqueous phase, with a formula composed of 96% naturally derived ingredients and 5.8% skincare formula. It is fitted with a brush made of castor oil-derived fibres that offer precision with every application. Its black shade grooms the lashes, and its formula coats them with a film layer by layer. Moreover, its high concentration of CI 77499, a black pigment, ensures long-lasting wear, complemented by the film-forming agents present in the product.

Its formulation is inspired by hair science withcastor oil used for its nourishing and strengthening properties, the pea peptides employed to reinforce lashes from the root, the keratin selected to tone the lash structure, thearginine chosen to stimulate lash growth and prevent breakage, and the charcoal powder added to impart visible colour and length to the lashes. Because the serum-mascara is an oil-in-water emulsion, make-up removal is greatly simplified.

Furthermore, in line with our ecological and vegan commitments, its formulation is devoid of silicones which are non-biodegradable and pollute the environment, of mineral oils or waxes which are petroleum derivatives obtained through a polluting process, and of beeswax, ingredients of animal origin.