Everything you need to know about Immortelle essential oil.

The essential oil of immortelle is derived from the flowers ofHelichrysum italicum, also known as Italian Immortelle. This Mediterranean plant is characterised by its yellow flowers that emit a spicy scent reminiscent of curry. Its name refers to the longevity of its flowers, even when they are picked. The Immortelle flower is the subject of many legends, some of which date back to antiquity. Indeed, in Greek mythology, it is said that this plant grew on the tombs of heroes, thus symbolising their perpetual memory. Greek priestesses also used Immortelle during religious rituals.

Today, the Immortelle has become a significant economic resource, particularly in Corsica. Some agricultural operations are entirely dedicated to the cultivation and production of Italian helichrysum essential oil, often considered a luxury product. A true symbol of the Mediterranean coasts, the Helichrysum italicum is an integral part of the natural Corsican landscape and contributes to its nickname as the Island of Beauty.

The Italian helichrysum essential oil is obtained through steam distillation from dried flowers. Only the flowering tops are used for its production. Once these are placed in a large still, steam is introduced. The heat generated allows the extraction of the essential oil and the hydrosol. It should be noted that the temperature inside the still must be slightly above 50°C, the flash point of the Italian helichrysum essential oil.

The steam is then cooled in a coil submerged in a refrigeration tank, which allows it to be liquefied. Water and oil, of different densities, are separated in an essencier. The essential oil of immortelle, less dense than water, forms the upper phase of the liquid and can be collected after this stage. It must then be stored in a closed container, protected from light and excessive heat.

Anecdote : On average, it takes one tonne of Italian helichrysum flowers to produce two kilograms of essential oil.

To better understand the properties of the Italian Helichrysum essential oil, it is beneficial to be familiar with its composition.

The essential oil of immortelle is particularly beneficial from a cosmetic perspective and can be applied to the skin as well as the scalp and hair.

• The essential oil of Italian helichrysum is soothing.

  The richness of neryl acetate and italidiones in the essential oil of immortelle could potentially alleviate minor irritations, itching, and everyday redness. Indeed, some studies have shown that it can inhibit the nuclear factor NF-κB, which is responsible for the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as TNF-α and interleukins-1β and 6, as well as inducible inflammatory enzymes like COX-2 and mPG2S.

• The essential oil of immortelle possesses antioxidant properties.

  Studies have shown that Italian helichrysum essential oil possesses antioxidant activity and is capable of combating oxidative stress. This property is particularly interesting for preventing photoaging of the skin, which is notably manifested by premature slackening of skin structures and pigmentation disorders. The antioxidant properties of immortelle essential oil could also enable it to slow down the greying process, that is, the whitening of hair, a phenomenon accelerated by oxidative stress.

• The essential oil of Italian helichrysum is believed to have tightening effects.

  Regular use of Immortelle essential oil could potentially combat the formation of wrinkles. Indeed, according to some studies, this essential oil could inhibit the activities of collagenase and elastase, the enzymes respectively responsible for the breakdown of peptide bonds in collagen and elastin. It could thus protect skin structures from sagging. However, this potential property of Immortelle essential oil has only been demonstratedin vitro, so caution is advised.

• The essential oil of immortelle can promote healing.

  The essential oil of immortelle is sometimes considered a helpful ally in the case of minor wounds as it could stimulate the formation of granulation tissue, a key stage in the healing process. Its healing properties, initially demonstrated on fibroblast cultures, were subsequently confirmed in humans. The scientific literature notably reports the cases of four patients with minor wounds treated with Italian helichrysum essential oil, diluted to 10% in coconut oil. After 28 days, the wounds had completely healed and no side effects were observed.

• The essential oil of Italian helichrysum has antibacterial activity.

  The essential oil of immortelle also appears to be capable of inhibiting the growth of various microorganisms, particularly that of Cutibacterium acnes, a bacterium that can exacerbate acne. Indeed, it seems that this ingredient may prevent it from forming biofilms and developing, with a minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of 7.81 µg/mL. However, the effectiveness of Italian helichrysum essential oil on acne has not yet been formally proven and remains the subject of scientific research.

• The essential oil of immortelle is believed to enhance blood circulation.

  The essential oil of Italian helichrysum is also known for stimulating blood flow. This draining action is believed to come from its ability to inhibit the synthesis of nitric oxide (NO), a compound that promotes vasodilation phenomena and contributes to fluid stagnation. Useful for relieving heavy legs and varicose veins, this property of the essential oil of immortelle could also allow it to reduce certain types of dark circles and bags under the eyes, and promote hair growth, by providing hair follicles with more nutrients and oxygen.

• Can Italian Helichrysum essential oil alleviate bruises?

  Finally, the essential oil of immortelle could potentially act against bruising. This potential effect could be partly explained by its ability to improve blood flow, but also due to its richness in italidiones. Indeed, these molecules accelerate the absorption of haematomas through a mechanism of fibrin chelation. By binding to fibrin, the essential oil of immortelle helps to trap blood cells, thereby stabilising the haematoma and accelerating its healing. However, despite an encouraging initial clinical trial, more evidence is still needed to be able to assert that the essential oil of immortelle has anti-bruising effects.

The essential oil of immortelle, widely used in aromatherapy, is suitable for all skin types and all hair types, and is generally not considered irritating. However, it does contain potentially allergenic compounds, such as linalool and limonene. Therefore, it is recommended to perform a tolerance test before using it, for example in the crook of the elbow. Moreover, it is worth noting that this essential oil should never be used undiluted. Most often, it is diluted in a vegetable oil to a concentration of 10%. Finally, as a precautionary principle, the application of Italian helichrysum essential oil is contraindicated for pregnant and breastfeeding women and young children.

When not supervised by a doctor, the oral intake of immortelle essential oil is not recommended.

The essential oil of immortelle is incorporated into two Typology treatments under its INCI name Helichrysum Italicum Flower Oil:

• The firming night mask : Enriched with prickly pear oil, shea butter and immortelle essential oil, this enveloping night mask nourishes and regenerates weakened skin while firming the tissues. Formulated with 99% natural origin ingredients, this treatment is applied once or twice a week on clean, dry skin for a rested face upon waking.

• The botanical tensor assembly : Composed of 7 botanical extracts, this night serum tones the skin and optimises cellular regeneration. The ingredients making up this treatment can be separated into 3 categories: essential oils, vegetable oils and plant cells. With different compositions, they work in synergy and offer complementary actions on the skin.

• CENIZO V. & al. Helichrysum Italicum Essential Oil inhibits skin lipid peroxidation induced by pollution and UV. Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2017).

• LALL M. & al. Investigating the Anti-Acne Potential of Impepho [Helichrysum odoratissimum (L.) Sweet] to Counteract Cutibacterium acnes Virulence. Frontiers in Pharmacology (2020).

• NARDA M. & al. Night Cream Comprising Melatonin, Carnosine and Helichrysum italicum Extract Assists in Reducing Skin Reactivity and Indications of Photodamage: Ex Vivo and Clinical Studies. Dermatology and Therapy (2020).

• OBERMAYER B. & al. Skin and Vascular Fitness. SOFW Journal - Home and Personal Care Ingredients & Formulations (2023).

• KONCIC M. & al. Hydroxypropyl-β-Cyclodextrin-Based Helichrysum italicum Extracts: Antioxidant and Cosmeceutical Activity and Biocompatibility. Antioxidants (2023).