Does Italian Helichrysum essential oil have benefits for the hair?

The face and body are not the only areas that can experience sensations of tightness and itching: the scalp can also suffer from these discomforts. To soothe it, it may be beneficial to apply a few drops of Italian helichrysum essential oil, diluted in a light vegetable oil, and gently massage your scalp, to help the oil penetrate, before shampooing within the following hour. Indeed, it has been shown that the essential oil of immortelle can downregulate various parameters of inflammation, thus helping to calm the skin.

From a mechanistic perspective, it appears that this ingredient may inhibit the activities of lipoxygenase (LOX) and cyclooxygenase (COX). Notably, LOX and COX are key enzymes in the inflammatory process that contribute to the release of prostaglandins and leukotrienes, molecules of inflammation. Alongside this, studies have shown that immortelle essential oil can suppress the activation of the NF-κB factor, thereby preventing the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as TNF-α and interleukins-1β and 6. These various effects suggest that the essential oil of Italian helichrysum could soothe irritated scalps.

As confirmed by various studies, the healing action of theItalian Helichrysum essential oil enables it toaccelerate the skin regeneration of minor wounds. Indeed, it could stimulate the proliferation and migration of fibroblasts and stem cells during healing, processes that are essential for the formation of granulation tissue. Furthermore, the essential oil of immortelle could induce an increase in the expression of genes coding for epidermal stem cells, such as SOX2, Oct-4 and NANOG. It has been suggested that the healing ability of theItalian Helichrysum essential oil comes from its richness in neryl acetate, although this has not yet been formally established.

Little Extra : Unlike a healing cream, the essential oil of immortelle has a light texture, making its application on the scalp easier.

The essential oil of Italian helichrysum is also credited with antibacterial properties, useful for keeping the populations of microorganisms living on the scalp under control. These properties are believed to stem from its biochemical composition and extend to several species. Notably, we can mention Staphylococcus aureus and Cutibacterium acnes, two bacteria that inhabit the skin. The mechanisms of action of the essential oil of Italian helichrysum are varied and are currently still the subject of study.

Regarding S. aureus, it appears that the various compounds of the essential oil of immortelle are capable of acting in synergy to disrupt the membranes of bacterial cells, thereby causing an increase in their permeability and, ultimately, the death of the cells. As for C. acnes, this essential oil could prevent it from forming biofilms and growing, with a minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of 7.81 µg/mL.

Known for accelerating skin sagging, oxidative stress also has detrimental effects on hair. Indeed, free radicals, particularly those generated following exposure to the sun's UV rays, can weaken hair follicles, the structures anchoring hair fibres, thus promoting hair loss. Free radicals can also target and damage melanocytes, the cells that produce melanin, thereby hastening the onset of grey hair. To protect the fibres, it is beneficial to include antioxidants in your hair care routine.

According to certain scientific studies, immortelle essential oil could fulfil this role. Indeed, its antioxidant activity was recently evaluated during a DPPH test, a colourimetric analysis often carried out in biology. This test showed that 17.61 ± 0.16 mg/mL of Italian helichrysum essential oil was required to reduce the DPPH° chemical radical by half after 30 minutes. This antioxidant activity of the oil is thought to be due to its richness in curcumenes, compounds belonging to the sesquiterpene family.

Finally, the essential oil of immortelle is credited with the ability to accelerate hair growth. However, caution is advised regarding this potential property: to date, it has not been the subject of any scientific study. The hypothesis that Italian helichrysum essential oil could promote the achievement of a full mane comes from its beneficial effect on microcirculation. Indeed, it seems that this oil inhibits the synthesis of nitric oxide (NO), a compound involved in vasodilation phenomena. By inhibiting the production of NO, the essential oil of immortelle improves blood flow, which would facilitate the delivery of nutrients and oxygen to the hair follicles. Benefiting from more resources, hair would then grow faster.

As of now, the notion that immortelle essential oil could promote hair growth remains a hypothesis that requires scientific studies for validation.

• MANDIC B. & al. Composition, Antioxidant Potential, and Antimicrobial Activity of Helichrysum plicatum DC. Various Extracts. Plants (2020).

• LALL M. & al. Investigating the Anti-Acne Potential of Impepho [Helichrysum odoratissimum (L.) Sweet] to Counteract Cutibacterium acnes Virulence. Frontiers in Pharmacology (2020).

• WIJAYADI L. & al. The application of Helichrysum italicum essential oil in virgin coconut oil for wound healing: a series of case reports. Syiah Kuala Medical Journal (2022).

• LOPEZ V. & al. An integrated in vitro approach to the enzymatic and antioxidant mechanisms of four commercially available essential oils (Copaifera officinalis, Gaultheria fragrantissima, Helichrysum italicum, and Syzygium aromaticum) traditionally applied topically for their anti-inflammatory effects. Frontiers in Pharmacology (2024).

• PEZO L. & al. Antibacterial and Antifungal Potential of Helichrysum italicum (Roth) G. Don Essential Oil. Antibiotics (2024).