Italian Helichrysum oil: risks to be aware of?

The essential points to remember.

Well tolerated by most skin types, helichrysum essential oil is not photosensitising and can be used at any time of day, provided it is diluted in a vegetable oil.
The essential oil of Italian helichrysum is not recommended during pregnancy, in young children and in people on anticoagulant therapy.
Conducting a tolerance test before first use helps prevent a widespread reaction.
To preserve its richness in active compounds, ensure you store the essential oil protected from heat, light and air.

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Does Italian helichrysum essential oil cause any adverse effects?

The Italian helichrysum essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of the flowering tops of Helichrysum italicum, a plant flourishing in Corsica and Italy. Beyond its benefits for bruises, its veinotonic effects make it an ally for heavy legs and varicose veins. Additionally, its proven anti-inflammatory properties allow it to soothe the skin and reduce redness. It should also be noted that the immortelle essential oil has a beneficial effect on acne. Finally, it has firming effects and is commonly used to combat the signs of ageing.

Indispensable in aromatherapy, Helichrysum italicum essential oil offers the benefit of being very mild and is suitable for almost all skin types.

Several studies have highlighted its safety and demonstrated that it is very well tolerated, even after prolonged use. Moreover, unlike some essential oils, the immortelle essential oil is not photosensitising and can be used both in the morning and in the evening. That said, even though Italian immortelle does not increase the risk of sunburn, it does not eliminate the need to use a sunscreen on a daily basis.

However, it has recently been reported a case of contact dermatitis in a 69-year-old woman, caused by the hydrophilic and lipophilic fractions of Helichrysum italicum contained in an emollient cream. Her reaction was confirmed by a patch test and validated by isolating the botanical extract. However, additional testing on 10 volunteers yielded negative results. This observed case of contact dermatitis therefore appears to correspond to an isolated hypersensitivity reaction.

Are there any contraindications to the use of immortelle essential oil?

Like most essential oils, the Italian helichrysum essential oil is contraindicated in pregnant women. Indeed, essential oils often contain ketone groups that pose a neurotoxic and abortifacient risk during pregnancy. They can cross the blood-brain barrier and reach the brain, where they may degrade the myelin sheath that protects neurons. The ketones found within the immortelle essential oil are diones, or diketones, meaning molecules bearing two ketone functions. Because of their higher molecular weight, their passage into the brain is very unlikely. Nevertheless, the use of immortelle essential oil remains, as a precautionary measure, contraindicated during pregnancy. The same applies to children under three years of age, due to the fragility of their skin.

Structures chimiques d'une cétone (A) et d'une dicétone (B). — Chemical structures of a ketone (A) and a diketone (B).
Source: GROGAN G. Emergent mechanistic diversity of enzyme-catalysed beta-diketone cleavage. The Biochemical Journal (2005).

Moreover, as a precautionary measure, it is not recommended for individuals on anticoagulant therapy or suffering from haemophilia to use the Italian helichrysum essential oil, due to its venotonic and anti-haemostatic properties. Neryl acetate and the italidiones it contains are thought to have the capacity to interfere with the coagulation cascade and to chelate fibrin, a filamentous protein that forms a network entrapping blood cells, thereby helping to contain bleeding. This limits blood clot formation and can thus potentiate the effects of anticoagulant medications, increasing the risk of haemorrhage.

3.12 million

Patients received at least one anticoagulant in France in 2013.

What precautions should be taken when using Helichrysum italicum (immortelle) essential oil?

Although Italian helichrysum essential oil is generally well tolerated, it is recommended to carry out a tolerance test when you use it for the first time.

Indeed, each individual may respond differently to a cosmetic product. To minimise risk, apply two drops to the inner bend of your elbow and wait 48 hours. If no adverse reaction is observed, you may use immortelle essential oil on your skin or scalp (but not on mucous membranes or around the eye contour, as this could irritate these sensitive areas). As with any essential oil, please do not apply it undiluted. A 10% dilution in a carrier oil is generally recommended for Italian Helichrysum essential oil.

Storage recommendations.

Store the oil at room temperature : High temperatures can cause the evaporation of certain volatile compounds, reducing the quality and safety of the immortelle essential oil.
Protect the oil from light : Keep the bottle shielded from UV rays, which accelerate the degradation of active molecules.
Close carefully after use : This limits contact with air and prevents oxidation, which is responsible for the gradual degradation of Italian helichrysum essential oil.
Observe the expiry date : An oxidised essential oil loses its efficacy and may become irritating to the skin.