How is Italian Helichrysum essential oil obtained?

Renowned for its firming effects and its ability to stimulate blood circulation, the Italian helichrysum essential oil is derived from the flowers of the Italian Immortelle, a Mediterranean plant belonging to the Asteraceae family. Also known as the curry plant or St. John's flower, the Italian helichrysum is typically found in Mediterranean regions. Its flowers are golden in colour and have an exceptionally long preservation once picked, hence its name Immortelle. The extraction of the oil is most often done by steam distillation, a method that takes between 1.5 and 4.5 hours, depending on the capacity of the still used.

1. Harvesting of Flowers : In order to achieve a high concentration of neryl acetate, the main component of the essential oil of immortelle, it is crucial to distil during the flowering period, which typically occurs between June and July, although it can sometimes be delayed until late August depending on the location of the plots and the climatic conditions. Producers advise distilling as close to the harvest as possible because the flowering tops are delicate and can quickly perish. To achieve optimal yield, it is important to harvest both the flower and the stem, as the latter also contains essential oil.

2. Preparation of the flowers : After being picked, the flowering tops are dried in the shade to preserve their components and prevent them from degrading due to direct sunlight exposure. They are then placed in a still connected to a heating system.

3. Hydrodistillation : Steam is passed through the plants assembled in the still. The heat from the steam allows the release of the essential oil contained in the cells of the flowers. The temperature inside the still must be slightly above 50°C, the flash point of Italian helichrysum essential oil. Beyond this temperature, it begins to evaporate, allowing the steam to become charged with essential oil. The steam, enriched with volatile compounds, then passes through a condenser, that is, a cooling tank. This change in temperature allows the mixture of water and essential oil to cool and condense into a liquid phase.

4. Decantation : Water and immortelle essential oil have different densities, which allows them to be easily separated in an essencier. The lower phase, composed of water lightly charged with oil, is called hydrosol. The pure essential oil, less dense than water, forms the upper phase of the liquid and can be collected after this stage.

The Italian helichrysum essential oil should subsequently be stored in dark glass bottles, protected from light, heat, and air to maintain its stability and properties. It is also recommended to keep it in a cool and dry place. From an organoleptic perspective, this oil appears as a golden to amber liquid, emitting a floral, exotic, and sometimes described as earthy fragrance. When applied topically, the essential oil of immortelle is generally perceived as non-greasy.

Did you know? On average, a tonne of Italian helichrysum flowers produces two kilograms of essential oil.

• Thesis by Mylène COMBALOT. L’Immortelle d’Italie (Helichrysum italicum) et son huile essentielle (2013).

• APPENDINO G. & al. Helichrysum italicum: The dormant titan of Mediterranean herbal medicine. Herbalgram (2015).

• BREN U. & al. Helichrysum italicum: From Extraction, Distillation, and Encapsulation Techniques to Beneficial Health Effects. Foods (2023).