The healing process is a defence mechanism of the skin that occurs after an injury. This natural phenomenon, which can extend over several months, follows four main stages: the vascular response (haemostasis), the inflammatory reaction, the formation of granulation tissue, and the remodelling phase. After healing, it is common to observe a more or less visible mark on the surface of the skin, corresponding to a scar. Depending on the severity of the wound, its location, and the age of the individual, the scar fades over time or persists for several years.
To alleviate them, it is quite common to use essential oils, such as that of immortelle. Highly acclaimed for combating signs of ageing, the Italian helichrysum essential oil is also known for its effects on bruises, varicose veins and even eczema. Several studies also suggest that it could be beneficial for promoting wound healing. A study on this subject was recently conducted on injured rats. The immortelle essential oil was incorporated at a level of 0.5% in a gel base and in another ointment base. The rats were divided into several groups: negative control, ointment alone, ointment with essential oil, gel alone and gel with essential oil. The percentage of wound contraction was measured and the results are presented in the table below.
Pourcentage de contraction des plaies chez des rats traités avec différentes formulations.
Source : BRADIC J. & al. Formulation and Evaluation of Helichrysum italicum Essential Oil-Based Topical Formulations for Wound Healing in Diabetic Rats. Pharmaceuticals (2021).
The findings of this study demonstrate a pro-healing activity of Italian helichrysum essential oil, as the two formulations examined (gel and ointment) had a more significant restorative effect when they contained the essential oil. Similar healing effects have been observed in humans.
Indeed, scientific literature reports the cases of four patients with wounds who were treated with 10% Italian helichrysum essential oil in a base of virgin coconut oil. This formulation was applied three times a day for 7 to 28 days, until the wounds were completely healed. All cases showed good healing, with no secondary infection. No skin reaction or irritation was observed on the wound area during the healing process. The healing effects of the immortelle essential oil, coupled with its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, seem to make it an ally in the wound healing process and would merit further study.
From a mechanistic perspective, it appears that Italian Helichrysum essential oil may be capable of stimulating the proliferation and migration of fibroblasts and stem cells during the healing process, processes that are essential for the formation of granulation tissue. Furthermore, according to in vitro studies, Immortelle essential oil could induce an increase in the expression of genes coding for epidermal stem cells, such as SOX2, Oct-4, and NANOG. These various effects of the Italian Helichrysum essential oil are thought to be due to its richness in neryl acetate, although this point still needs to be confirmed in future studies.
In addition to traditional treatments, Italian Helichrysum essential oil appears to have a promising healing potential. However, its effects on already formed scars have not been studied.