Mints belong to the botanical family of Lamiaceae, just like rosemary, sage, and thyme. Peppermint and spearmint are two species that can provide benefits to the skin, in the form of essential oil and hydrosol. What botanical differences exist between these two varieties? When should one or the other be used in cosmetics?
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- Active Ingredients
- Differences between Spearmint and Peppermint
Differences between Spearmint and Peppermint
- Spearmint and Peppermint, botanical characteristics
- Peppermint in Cosmetics
- The role of spearmint in skincare
- Source
Spearmint and Peppermint, botanical characteristics.
The green mint carries the botanical name of Mentha spicata L. It is primarily distinguished by its light green and veined leaves. Unlike peppermint leaves, these are lacking a petiole (the narrowed part of some leaves towards the stem). Green mint gives off a softer and more subtle fragrance than peppermint. It is characterised by its richness in carvone.
The peppermint is identified under the botanical name Mentha piperita L. It is a hybrid species, which comes from the crossbreeding of watermint and spearmint. It is taller than spearmint, its height can reach up to 80 cm. Its leaves are darker, they generally take on a beautiful dark green colour. Peppermint contains more menthol than spearmint, hence its more pronounced characteristic smell.
Peppermint and spearmint share a common geographical origin:theIndia, specifically theUttar Pradesh province.
Peppermint in Cosmetics.
This species of mint can be used in three main forms in skin and hair care.
Thepeppermint essential oil (INCI name: Mentha Piperita Leaf Oil)
This essential oil limits blemishes; it is recommended for oily skin as well as skin prone to acne. Indeed, it has a purifying and astringent action.
Its sanitising properties also work on the scalp. Peppermint essential oil activates the microcirculation of the scalp and strengthens hair follicles to stimulate hair growth. Furthermore, it helps to combat dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis issues. Because of these benefits, you can find it in the scalp scrub PHA 5% + jojoba beads. This pre-shampoo exfoliating gel gently removes dead cells for a healthy and balanced scalp. Peppermint essential oil is also in our scalp treatment purifying Zinc PCA 4% + nettle extract. This treatment regulates sebum production and purifies the scalp to prevent it from becoming too greasy too quickly.
Thepeppermint hydrosol (INCI name: Mentha Piperita Flower/Leaf/Stem Water)
Due to its acidic pH, peppermint hydrosol visibly tightens the pores. Thanks to its purifying properties, it is also recommended for acne-prone skin. Ourpeppermint hydrosolis obtained through distillation from peppermint leaves sourced from organic farming, grown and harvested in France. This treatment is suitable for combination to oily skin as well as enlarged pores. It should be applied morning and evening, after skin cleansing, using a cotton pad or directly with the fingers.
Take note! The advantage of floral water compared to peppermint essential oil is that it is non-allergenic and can be used by all skin types, as well as bypregnant and breastfeeding women and children.
The peppermint oil macerate (INCI name: Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract)
To obtain this ingredient, fresh peppermint leaves are steeped in virgin sunflower oil. Soothing and refreshing, the peppermint macerate provides a sensation of freshness upon application and a mentholated taste to lip care products. It is therefore present in our tinted balm for lips and cheeks.
The role of spearmint in skincare.
In cosmetics, spearmint is present in the following two forms.
Theessential oil of spearmint (INCI name: Mentha Spicata Leaf Oil)
The carvone, predominantly present in this essential oil, aids in healing by promoting skin regeneration after an injury. This substance is thus suitable for all skin types, but particularly for skin with blemishes such as acne scars. Due to this property, spearmint essential oil is included in our skin rebalancing cleansing care with nettle. This purifying face and body cleanser is suitable for all skin types, particularly combination to oily skin, prone to imperfections.
Please note, this essential oil is not recommended for babies, children, epileptic individuals, and pregnant and breastfeeding women, as it contains significant amounts of carvone (ketone). This molecule is potentially neurotoxic and abortifacient at high doses. Thus, the IFRA 49th Amendment statement indicates that this essential oil can be used safely up to a concentration of 0.24% for rinse-off products due to the presence of carvone.
The hydrosol of spearmint (INCI name: Mentha piperita Leaf Water)
Similar to peppermint hydrosol, spearmint hydrosol is also astringent and purifying. It sanitises blemished skin, soothes inflamed spots and tightens pores. With its refreshing action, it also affects the venous and lymphatic micro-circulation.
Source:
FAUCON M. "Treatise on Scientific and Medical Aromatherapy, the Hydrosols" (2018).
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