Which eye contour should be chosen at 50 years and beyond?

At the age of 50, the area around the eyes is often very pronounced. Biologically, this can be explained by several phenomena. One can notably think of the significant decrease in ceramide synthesis in the stratum corneum. These lipids act as a barrier in the epidermis where they function as an intercellular cement. This weakens the skin and makes it more prone to dehydration. It also loses structure and becomes hollowed out.

Furthermore, the loss of collagen and elastin in the dermis, coupled with the effect of gravity, causes the fatty tissues to sag downwards around the eye contour (adipose bags). This phenomenon is particularly exacerbated in women during the menopause, which typically occurs around the age of 50. Indeed, the drastic reduction in the production of oestrogen during this period has a direct impact on the skin. These steroidal hormones are capable of stimulating the activity of fibroblasts, the dermal cells that synthesise collagen and elastin. Finally, menopause leads to a significant loss of bone density , further weakening the eye contour.

From the age of fifty, the eye contour area often appears significantly marked by the years and frequently presents wrinkles, visible bags, and deep-set dark circles... What we actually observe is a loss of overall structure in the area beneath the eyes, but also at the level of the eyebrow arch. The wrinkles are deep and the gaze appears tired, following the various biological and physiological changes that have occurred in the skin.

The skin priority from the age of 50 is to tighten and smooth the skin. For this, it is beneficial to turn to firming cosmetic treatments, which tone the skin and increase its elasticity. The application of this type of eye contour treatment is beneficial for slowing down the ageing process and somewhat reducing wrinkles, but it is important to note that it cannot act on fatty bags or hollow dark circles, which form as a result of the sagging of the skin on the lower eyelid.

If you wish to visibly reduce these signs, there are several aesthetic medicine and cosmetic surgery techniques available (hyaluronic acid or botox injections, ultrasound, laser...). However, we strongly advise you to thoroughly research the potential consequences and possible side effects before undergoing any procedure.

At the age of 50, it is recommended to opt for eye contour treatments formulated with powerful tensing and firming active ingredients, such as retinol. This derivative of vitamin A is a highly popular molecule in skincare targeting signs of skin ageing. Numerous studies have indeed demonstrated its effectiveness in reducing the depth of wrinkles. When applied topically, retinol metabolises into retinoic acid once absorbed by the skin and acts by binding to retinoid X receptors, thereby triggering a cascade of reactions leading, among other things, to the stimulation of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid synthesis by fibroblasts.

To complete your routine, we recommend a hydrating eye contour. Indeed, we often observe a certain skin dryness during the fifties, particularly around the eye contour. Let's remember that the hydrolipidic film, which protects the skin from dehydration, is almost absent in this area, due to the low proportion of sebaceous glands. Thus, to remedy this lack, you can turn to hyaluronic acid, a molecule with hydrating properties. Depending on whether it is high or low molecular weight, hyaluronic acid either remains on the surface of the epidermis where it protects it from dehydration, or penetrates deeper to strengthen and stimulate the synthesis of natural hyaluronic acid.

Note : after applying the eye contour treatment, it is important to protect the entire face with a broad-spectrum sunscreen, including the area around the eye. Being very thin, it easily allows UV rays to penetrate. You can also opt for an eye contour treatment containing SPF.

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• PUIZINA-IVIC N. Skin aging. Acta dermatovenerologica Alpina, Pannonica, et Adriatica (2008).

• ROBERT A. M. & al. Le vieillissement cutané - rôle de l'élastine. Médecine et longévité (2009).

• SIVAMANI R. & al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology (2019).