Fine lines around the eye: how to diminish them?

The periorbital area is particularly thin, approximately 4 to 5 times more so than the skin on the rest of the face. It also frequently engages in daily movements, notably smiling and squinting. Aside from the successive and repetitive contractions and relaxations of the muscles around the eyes, other factors contribute to the appearance of fine lines.

One can particularly think of the lack of hydrolipidic film on the eyelids. Indeed, this area contains only a few sebaceous glands, which are responsible for the production of sebum. The eye contour is thus sensitive to external aggressions and to water loss, which is responsible for the dehydration fine lines.

Furthermore, the dermis around the eye contour is naturally lacking in support fibres. The amount of collagen and elastin, proteins that provide flexibility, elasticity and firmness to the skin, is lower here than on the rest of the face. Finally, fine lines also develop over time as the number and size of the fat cells in the hypodermis decrease. This phenomenon is responsible for a loss in skin volume, resulting in the appearance of wrinkles.

Lifestyle and environmental factors also play a significant role in the process of skin ageing . For instance, lack of sleep can be detrimental, as it is crucial for the body and allows the skin to regenerate. Insufficient hydration also impacts the skin, making it less elastic and supple. Sun exposure also affects the skin, generating an excess of free radicals in the cells. Lastly, smoking accelerates skin ageing. A single puff of a cigarette contains approximately 200,000 free radicals.

To prevent and reduce the appearance of eye wrinkles before they become deeply set, rely on treatments that contain both moisturising agents, capable of retaining water (hyaluronic acid, aloe vera gel, glycerine, panthenol, etc.), and firming agents (peptides, retinol, bakuchiol, etc.). It is indeed important to properly hydrate the eye contour area to strengthen it and compensate for the near absence of the hydrolipidic film. This will help to reduce water loss and the appearance of dehydration fine lines. Moreover, the firming agents work to support and protect collagen and elastin fibres, preventing skin sagging. Others are capable of stimulating their synthesis by fibroblasts.

Today, there are several surgical and aesthetic medicine techniques available that can visibly reduce the fine lines around the corner of the eye. These can be used in conjunction with traditional cosmetic creams, whose role is more to slow down skin ageing. However, most aesthetic surgery methods are not without risk and must absolutely be carried out by qualified specialists.

• Hyaluronic acid injections.

  The amount of hyaluronic acid in the dermis decreases year by year from our twenties. To combat this natural phenomenon, hyaluronic acid injections are offered in aesthetic surgery clinics. They use a syringe or cannula and are applied directly to the wrinkle. The results are immediate and last approximately one to two years. Hyaluronic acid is generally well tolerated as it is biocompatible.

• Mesotherapy.

  This technique involves the injection of a liquid composed of active ingredients such as vitamins or minerals to fill facial wrinkles. The side effects are often mild and include minor reactive swelling, skin redness, itching, or bruising.

• Botox injections.

  The injection of botulinum toxin, also known as botox, results in an inability for the muscles to contract. This procedure is often quick and painless, with the initial effects on wrinkles appearing approximately two weeks later. However, it should be noted that this method can sometimes give the eyes a somewhat unnatural, frozen appearance.

• Fractional laser treatment.
  This technique involves directing a fractional laser beam onto the skin to induce inflammation that will stimulate the activity of fibroblasts. Several appointments are necessary. Fractional laser treatment is often discouraged for individuals with darker skin tones as it can cause hyperpigmentation. After the session, the skin is red and swollen and peels after a few days. In some cases, fractional laser treatment can lead to skin erythema or scarring.

• Collagen injections.

  To address shallow, light wrinkles, collagen injections are also available. The principle and side effects are the same as those for hyaluronic acid injections. However, the results last for a shorter period of time (from a few months to a year).

• The ultrasound facelift.

  The application of ultrasound on the skin creates coagulation impacts beneath the skin, causing tissue retraction. This thermal effect stimulates the production of collagen and elastin by fibroblasts. This non-invasive method is considered safe and does not present in principle any risk of adverse effects.

• The peeling.

  Peeling is akin to a chemical exfoliation. A light or medium peel is recommended for wrinkles at the corner of the eye. This method involves the application of a product (often fruit acids or trichloroacetic acid) that destroys the superficial layers of the epidermis. These then naturally reform and the depth of the wrinkles is reduced. It is necessary to protect the skin from the sun for the two weeks following the procedure, at the risk of developing hyperpigmentation. Sometimes, crusts are observed around the eye contour following a peel, which fall off by themselves after 7 to 10 days.

• SIVAMANI R. & al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. The British Journal of Dermatology (2019).

• GOLDBERG R. & al. Periocular hyaluronic acid fillers: applications, implications, complications. Current Opinion in Ophtalmology (2019).

• LISTIAWAN M. & al. Efficacy and safety of picosecond laser for wrinkle in Indonesian skin. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy (2022).