Bakuchiol usage guide: how to use this active ingredient?

At what concentration is bakuchiol typically found in cosmetic formulations?

Presented as the green, safe-to-use version of retinol, bakuchiol is an ingredient derived from Babchi seeds. Also known as "bakuchi", this plant, endemic to the Himalayan region, has long been included in the Ayurvedic pharmacopeia. For around fifteen years, bakuchiol has been gaining ground in the cosmetics market as a gentler alternative to retinoids. Non-irritating, stable under sunlight and free from contraindications, the bakuchiol acts on the same skin processes as retinoids, and can specifically address wrinkles, blemishes, pigment spots and excessive sebum production.

In formulations, bakuchiol is generally used at concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 2%.

Available data suggest that a 0.5% concentration can already produce visible effects on the appearance of wrinkles, skin firmness and evenness of complexion, particularly when used daily. The concentrations around 1% are the most frequently encountered in serums and targeted treatments. One might assume that bakuchiol’s efficacy exceeds 2%, but in reality, no clinical study has demonstrated that this concentration is superior.

4 minutes to understand your skin. Our dermatological diagnostic guides you toward the ideal skincare for your specific needs. Simple, quick, personalized.

Night Serum for Blemishes 1% Bakuchiol — Typology

Best-seller

Night Serum for Blemishes L62 — 1% Bakuchiol — from £23.50

How to incorporate bakuchiol into your skincare routine?

Once the concentration has been chosen, the question remains how to incorporate bakuchiol into one's daily routine. Good news: this active ingredient is renowned for its excellent skin tolerance and non-photosensitising properties, making it more flexible to use than retinol.

Where should bakuchiol be applied?

Most bakuchiol-based skincare treatments can be applied to the entire face, as well as to the neck and décolletage. This active compound is particularly beneficial around the eye contour, where the skin is thinner and expression lines form more quickly. Some products are applied locally, for instance only to blemishes. The essential thing is to properly follow the manufacturer's instructions for use.

How frequently should bakuchiol be used?

Bakuchiol is not photosensitising, meaning it does not increase the skin’s sensitivity to UV rays. It can therefore be used in the morning and/or evening. That said, the daily application of a broad-spectrum sunscreen remains essential in the morning, particularly if the aim is to target signs of ageing or pigmentation spots.

Note : Bakuchiol is a lipophilic molecule, which facilitates its incorporation into oil-based serums or overnight oils. This formulation, often associated with an evening application for reasons of comfort and texture, may have fostered the idea that it is photosensitising. However, the bakuchiol does not increase skin sensitivity to UV. Its nocturnal use is primarily a matter of sensory preference.

What galenic formulation is used for bakuchiol?

According to their galenic formulation, bakuchiol-containing products are not all used in the same way.

The bakuchiol serums are applied to clean, dry skin before moisturiser. Place 2 to 5 drops in the palm of your hand, spread the product evenly over the face and neck, then massage gently until fully absorbed. As for bakuchiol creams, take a pea-sized amount and apply it all over the face. Remember to massage with upward strokes to optimise penetration and counteract the pull of gravity, which can promote skin laxity. Finally, if you use a bakuchiol eye contour product, use the tip of your ring finger to tap a small amount of formula along the orbital bone, working from the inner to the outer corner. Avoid rubbing, as the eye contour is particularly delicate.

Because bakuchiol is a lipophilic molecule, its ability to penetrate the skin strongly depends on formulation conditions. Studies comparing different delivery systems have shown that nanoemulsions can increase the amount of bakuchiol deposited in the skin by three to four times compared with micelles or microemulsions. This improved delivery appeared to be partly related to the lipid composition of the nanoemulsion, which is rich in oleic acid. Cutaneous biodistribution experiments also showed that these nanoemulsions promote the accumulation of bakuchiol in the viable epidermis and dermis, the main targets of its biological effects. These findings highlight the importance of formulation in the effectiveness of topically applied bakuchiol.

Note : The bakuchiol also offers the advantage of being easy to combine with other cosmetic actives. Unlike retinol, it has no contraindications for combination and can be combined with ingredients such as vitamin C, niacinamide, AHAs, ceramides or even retinol itself, depending on the objective.

Can bakuchiol be used on hair?

The bakuchiol could theoretically be beneficial for the scalp.

Its antioxidant and soothing properties could help to protect it from oxidative stress and soothe any discomfort. It may also be of interest for oily scalps, insofar as some studies suggest it may help regulate sebum production by the sebaceous glands. However, no mechanism suggests that bakuchiol offers any benefit to hair lengths. At present, scientific data regarding the use of bakuchiol in hair care remain limited, and hair products formulated with this active ingredient are very scarce.