When and how often should bakuchiol be used?

Extracted from the seeds of a plant known as Babchi or Bakuchi, the bakuchiol is a natural molecule recognised for its action against inflammation and oxidation. Historically, in traditional medicine, Indians and Chinese used it to treat certain skin problems or promote wound healing.

A recent active ingredient in skincare - the first product containing bakuchiol was marketed in 2007 - it targets skin ageing, wrinkles, or acne. Even though their chemical structures differ, due to the similar benefits they provide, bakuchiol presents itself as an alternative to retinol, better tolerated by sensitive skin.

When used topically, bakuchiol helps to restore the imbalance inherent in acne-prone skin, which is subject to an excess of sebum. Indeed, it enables the epidermis to regain and maintain its moisturising and protective barrier. Multifunctional, it also stimulates cell renewal and collagen production, essential for skin tone and suppleness.

Evening or morning? Often compared to retinol, but without the undesirable effects, bakuchiol benefits from photostability which allows it to be applied in the morning, without any risks. Moreover, as bakuchiol is not a retinoid, its use is safe for pregnant women as well as sensitive skin. In any case, every morning, don't forget to finish your routine with the application of a sun protection suited to your skin tone.

At what frequency? If you truly wish to rid yourself of blemishes or reduce your wrinkles, do not hesitate to apply a bakuchiol treatment twice a day, morning and evening. Bakuchiol is a gentle active ingredient, presenting no risk of skin irritation, even for the most sensitive skin types.

We have developed two treatments containing this comprehensive anti-bacterial agent.

• The blemish serum is a minimalist, fragrance-free treatment that contains only three ingredients: 1% bakuchiol (the optimal concentration at which its effectiveness has been proven), hazelnut oil (INCI name: Corylus Avellana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil) and caprylic/capric triglyceride. Its function is to combat excess sebum and reduce blemishes and blackheads. Even though our serum is not photosensitising (it does not increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun's UV rays), we recommend its use primarily in the evening, at the end of your routine, due to its rather rich texture.

• The wrinkle and blemish serum combines the densifying action of retinol (0.3%) with the anti-bacterial action of bakuchiol (1%) to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and correct blemishes. Synthesised by endemic Australian plants, the plant polypeptides it contains are capable of working in synergy with retinol to promote the synthesis of type I collagen. They thus help to reduce the depth of wrinkles and densify the skin. However, retinol can make the skin sensitive to the sun, use this serum in the evening and apply a suitable sunscreen in the days following application.

• MARCHIO F. & al. Bakuchiol in the management of acne-affected skin. Cosmetics & Toiletries (2011).

• BOJANOWSKI K. & al. Bakuchiol: A retinol-like functional compound unveiled through gene expression profiling and clinically demonstrated to possess anti-ageing properties. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014).

• REITER P. & al. Prospective, Randomised, Double-Blind Evaluation of Topical Bakuchiol and Retinol for Facial Photoageing Clinical Trial. British Journal of Dermatology (2019).

• LEVY S. & al. Clinical Evaluation of a Nature-Derived Bakuchiol Anti-Ageing Moisturiser for Sensitive Skin. The Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2020).