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Différence entre acide hyaluronique et rétinol.

What is the difference between retinol and hyaluronic acid?

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Hyaluronic Acid: Advantages and Disadvantages
Advantages and Disadvantages of Retinol

Published February 20, 2024, by Stéphanie, Doctorate in Life and Health Sciences — 5 min read

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Retinol

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid or retinol? These are two key elements in cosmetics that have gradually proven their effectiveness, as demonstrated by scientific studies. However, these two compounds differ from each other, and the primary and only distinction between these two actives lies in their mechanism of action on the skin. They will not yield the same expected results, as they do not "correct" the same aspects of the skin. Each of them caters to very specific needs. But then what is better: retinol or hyaluronic acid? Which one should you opt for?

Hyaluronic Acid: Advantages and Disadvantages.

Thehyaluronic acid is a macromolecule that belongs to the group of carbohydrates. Present in the skin, eyes, skeletal tissues among others, it is naturally generated by the body with an average production of 5 grams of hyaluronic acid per day for an average-sized man. However, over the years, its natural production decreases, gradually leading to less firm skin and the appearance of wrinkles. Studies have found that an external supply through topical application of 0.1% hyaluronic acid can improve the elasticity and hydration of the skin.

However, its effect on the skin depends on its size. Whether small or large, hyaluronic acid does not act in the same way: low molecular weight hyaluronic acid molecules can penetrate the epidermis, while those of a larger size will remain on the skin's surface. Regardless of their size, they will help to improve skin hydration and the appearance of fine lines.

What are the benefits of hyaluronic acid on the skin?

It creates a protective veil on the surface of the epidermis in order to shield the skin from dehydration and elements of the surrounding environment;
It acts as a humectant by drawing water from the dermis to the epidermis. It thus has the ability to bind water molecules and retain them within the heart of skin cells, up to 1,000 times its weight for hydrated and plumped skin;
It stimulates the natural production of hyaluronic acid, effective in restoring skin density and reducing the appearance of premature ageing signs;
This refers to an ingredient that is well tolerated by all skin types ;
It is non-irritating, non-photosensitising and non-allergenic.

Are there any drawbacks?

Its function depends on the size of the hyaluronic acid used in the formulation, which is not easy to identify if the information is not explicitly stated;
Even though it is generally harmless, it can in very rare cases cause an allergic reaction manifesting as redness, irritation, tingling...

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Advantages and Disadvantages of Retinol.

The retinol is a type of retinoids, which are compounds derived from Vitamin A. Once absorbed by the skin, retinol is converted into retinoic acid, a compound that acts on skin cells. It has been demonstrated that a concentration between 0.1 and 0.3% is sufficient to have a certain effect on the skin, after three to six months of application at a usage frequency of 3 times per week.

What are the benefits of retinol for the skin?

It boosts the biosynthesis of collagen and elastin by dermal fibroblasts, enabling a reduction in the depth of wrinkles and promoting more elastic skin;
It activates the process of cellular renewal at the level of the epidermis for a refined skin texture and unclogged pores;
It diminishes the intensity of pigmentation spots caused by the sun's UV rays by regulating the activity of melanocytes through the inhibition of tyrosinase;
It assists in preventing and combating the emergence of spots, in addition to fading the marks they leave behind after their disappearance.

And the disadvantages?

This refers to a compound with potential irritant properties. Redness, itching, mild sensations of warmth, flaking... some skin types, particularly sensitive skin, may develop a skin reaction following the application of retinol-based skincare ;
Retinol is photosensitising, meaning that its application makes the skin sensitive to the sun. That's why it must always be paired with a sun protection.