Liposome-available Sodium Hyaluronate: What is this form of Hyaluronic Acid?

Lipo-available sodium hyaluronate is a modified form of sodium hyaluronate, the salt of the hyaluronic acid. As a reminder, the latter is a polysaccharide naturally present in the body, especially in the skin, joints, and eyes. The hyaluronic acid is particularly known for its strong hygroscopic capacity. Indeed, this active ingredient is capable of attracting and retaining up to 1000 times its weight in water, making it a powerful moisturiser. Hyaluronic acid is thus widely used in cosmetics, particularly in products intended for dehydrated or mature skin, although it is actually suitable for all skin types.

As mentioned above, hyaluronic acid comes in several forms, including lipo-available sodium hyaluronate. Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. It is generally used to prepare eye drops or ophthalmic treatments but it can also be used in cosmetics to hydrate the skin. Sodium hyaluronate is distinguished by its low molecular weight, less than 1000 kDa. This form of hyaluronic acid, known as low molecular weight, penetrates deeper into the epidermis than the hyaluronic acid itself, which remains on the surface and is limited to creating a hydrating barrier.

The key difference between lipo-available sodium hyaluronate and other forms of sodium hyaluronate lies in its modified chemical structure. While hyaluronic acid is typically water-soluble, this lipo-available version is modified to be more lipid-soluble, enhancing its ability to penetrate the skin. It's worth noting that the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis, is primarily composed of lipids. The lipophilic nature of lipo-available sodium hyaluronate results from its encapsulation in a lipid matrix, primarily composed of triolein, a triglyceride derived from oleic acid, a fatty acid extracted from olive oil. More efficient at penetrating the epidermis, lipo-available sodium hyaluronate can serve as a signalling molecule for the synthesis of new endogenous hyaluronic acid molecules. It thus promotes the hydration of skin tissues and the structural maintenance of the extracellular matrix. It is recommended for individuals wishing to prevent or mitigate the signs of ageing.

Independent scientific research regarding the efficacy of liposome-available sodium hyaluronate is currently lacking. However, internal studies conducted on this active ingredient are promising. A permeation test carried out with reconstituted human epidermis has notably attested to the good penetration ability of liposome-available sodium hyaluronate. This was slightly superior to that of hydrophilic sodium hyaluronate, at all hours following application. After eight hours, approximately 33.7% of the liposome-available sodium hyaluronate had been absorbed by the epidermis, compared to 29.8% for the hydrophilic form.

Another test was conducted to assess the moisturising potential of liposome-available sodium hyaluronate on the lips. For this, ten women were recruited and used a lip balm based on vegetable oils, compared to an identical formula to which sodium hyaluronate was added. The results, collected at different hours after application and presented in the table below, demonstrate a superb moisturising effect of sodium hyaluronate on the lips, suggesting that this effect could be transferable to other areas of the body.

• MAIBACH H. I. & al. Hyaluronan in skin: aspects of ageing and its pharmacological modulation. Clinics in Dermatology (2008).

• MASSON F. Skin Hydration and Hyaluronic Acid. Annals of Dermatology and Venereology (2010).

• PIOT O. & al. Investigation into the penetration of hyaluronic acid of varying molecular weights into human skin as examined by Raman spectroscopy. Skin Research & Technology (2015).

• Supplier document.