The Punica granatum , or pomegranate tree, is a fruit-bearing tree. The plant extract of pomegranate is known for its regenerative properties, but also for its ability to enhance skin radiance due to its richness in vitamin C, vitamin B and trace elements. Pomegranate extract is also renowned for its abundance of antioxidant compounds such as polyphenols, making it an ingredient of choice for mature, tired or sagging skin.
What is "Punica Granatum Extract" and what is its utility?
Summary
Published on February 5, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 5 min of reading
An overview of pomegranate extract.
The name "Punica granatum" is used to refer to both the tree and the fruit of the pomegranate. This is a tree that grows between 2 to 5 metres high, belonging to the Punicaceae family. Originally from Central Asia, the cultivation of the pomegranate has spread to several countries such as Tunisia, Morocco, Egypt, and even America. As a mythical fruit, numerous benefits are attributed to the pomegranate. In Egyptian mythology, it is considered a symbol of fertility. Its use also extends to medicine, and recently, to skincare and haircare.
To harness all its benefits, the pomegranate is utilised in the form of an extract. This plant-based active ingredient is obtained following an alcoholic extraction and maceration of the fruits in water and glycerine. The pomegranate fruit extract is a slightly amber liquid with a characteristic smell, soluble in water or another hydrophilic medium. The recommended dosage of this ingredient in a skincare product ranges from 0.5% to 2%.
What are the cosmetic properties of pomegranate extract?
As a concentrated active ingredient, pomegranate extract is incorporated in small doses and mixed with other ingredients. Among the benefits of pomegranate extract, the following can be mentioned.
An antioxidant action.
This botanical active ingredient contains a high proportion of vitamin C, but it also contains other antioxidants such as anthocyanins, ellagic acid, and tannins. Pomegranate extract is thus most commonly used to neutralise free radicals. Indeed, these are responsible for the degradation of skin constituents, particularly the proteins that ensure its elasticity and suppleness (the collagen and elastin). This action against cellular oxidation helps to prevent premature skin ageing. Pomegranate extract has even demonstrated an action on radicals superior to that of commonly used antioxidants such as green tea.
A regenerative action.
The molecules present in this extract also promote cellular renewal by stimulating the production of keratin. It is worth noting that keratin is a protein that constitutes skin and hair. Playing a protective role, it helps to improve the resilience of hair fibres and prevent water loss at the epidermis level. Thus, keratin maintains the shine of the hair and the hydration of the skin.
An action against inflammations.
The activity of pomegranate extract against inflammation helps to soothe the skin and scalp. Furthermore, punicic acid acts as a film-forming agent to protect the skin from the effects of UV rays.
A photoprotective action.
Pomegranate extract contains sun-protective compounds that can shield the skin from damage caused by free radicals, aid in preventing skin cancer, alleviate sunburn, and reduce signs of sun-induced damage. The particularly active photoprotective compound in this extract is ellagic acid, an antioxidant polyphenol. According to researchers, this compound inhibits the growth of skin tumours. Please note, pomegranate extract does not replace sun protection with an SPF suitable for one's skin tone.
In which skincare products can one find "Punica Granatum Extract"?
This extract is primarily recommended for mature skin, tired, irritated and/or presenting with sunburn, as well as for sensitive and reactive skin. It is therefore found in certain skincare products: creams, serums, eye contours, after-shave care, post-hair removal care, after-sun care...
Thepomegranate extract is recognised as a potent antioxidant and, by preventing oxidation, it can reduce the colour change in dyed hair. Therefore, it is an excellent ingredient for "colour" shampoos or similar masks. Moreover, it is also suitable forbroken and damaged hair, split ends and dry hair.
Sources:
DELLAVALLE R. P. & al. Ellagic acid inhibits melanoma growth in vitro. Dermatol Reports (2011).
LI D. & al. Pomegranate juice and extract consumption increases the resistance to UVB-induced erythema and changes the skin microbiome in healthy women: a randomized controlled trial. Scientific Reports (2019).
