What is “Ascorbyl Palmitate” and what is its purpose?

The vitamin C is available in various active forms, including ascorbyl palmitate (INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate). It is a synthetic fatty acid ester with lipophilic properties, formed from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid, a saturated fatty acid.

Ascorbyl palmitate was developed in particular to overcome the stability and permeability issues of vitamin C, whilst preserving its beneficial properties. Indeed, although it remains one of the most potent antioxidants, vitamin C oxidises rapidly upon exposure to light, thereby no longer delivering the expected results and causing adverse effects.

Ascorbyl palmitate is often used to help stabilise more sensitive skincare ingredients, such as pure vitamin C.

It is also known to be effective at a neutral pH, unlike pure vitamin C which requires a pH below 3.5 to improve its stability and facilitate its penetration, making ascorbyl palmitate easier to formulate and less irritating.

However, according to a comparative study, this enhanced liposoluble variant of ordinary vitamin C appears to maintain a "similar" stability to ascorbic acid. Research has even shown that other forms possess better long‐term stability, thus not remaining insensitive to degradation under continual heat exposure and aerobic conditions. Indeed, its chemical modification, namely the addition of a lipid component, is located on carbon 6, thereby offering less protection to ascorbic acid against hydrolysis.

On the other hand, publications have shown that ascorbyl palmitate appears to penetrate the stratum corneum with ease due to its lipophilic nature, in contrast to hydrophilic ascorbic acid. However, although it exhibits better skin penetration, it remains on the cell surface and thus does not readily convert into L-ascorbic acid, the biologically active form.

The vitamin C is available in various active forms, including ascorbyl palmitate (INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate). It is a synthetic fatty acid ester with lipophilic properties, formed from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid, a saturated fatty acid.

Ascorbyl palmitate was developed in particular to overcome the stability and permeability issues of vitamin C, whilst preserving its beneficial properties. Indeed, although it remains one of the most potent antioxidants, vitamin C oxidises rapidly upon exposure to light, thereby no longer delivering the expected results and causing adverse effects.

Ascorbyl palmitate is often used to help stabilise more sensitive skincare ingredients, such as pure vitamin C.

It is also known to be effective at a neutral pH, unlike pure vitamin C which requires a pH below 3.5 to improve its stability and facilitate its penetration, making ascorbyl palmitate easier to formulate and less irritating.

However, according to a comparative study, this enhanced liposoluble variant of ordinary vitamin C appears to maintain a "similar" stability to ascorbic acid. Research has even shown that other forms possess better long‐term stability, thus not remaining insensitive to degradation under continual heat exposure and aerobic conditions. Indeed, its chemical modification, namely the addition of a lipid component, is located on carbon 6, thereby offering less protection to ascorbic acid against hydrolysis.

On the other hand, publications have shown that ascorbyl palmitate appears to penetrate the stratum corneum with ease due to its lipophilic nature, in contrast to hydrophilic ascorbic acid. However, although it exhibits better skin penetration, it remains on the cell surface and thus does not readily convert into L-ascorbic acid, the biologically active form.

"Ascorbyl Palmitate": how can it aid in a formulation?

Present in over a thousand cosmetic formulations (lip balms, after-sun lotions, shampoos, facial serums, etc.), ascorbyl palmitate is believed to have numerous beneficial functions for the skin.

• Antioxidant agent: it helps to protect the skin from oxidative damage caused by free radicals, which are generated by solar radiation, smoking, diet, environmental pollution, and so on. It reduces cellular free radical levels in a dose-dependent manner via an electron transfer and/or donation process. However, its antioxidant activity has only been demonstrated in model systems in vitro, but not in vivo.

  However, one study has shown that the use of ascorbic acid-6-palmitate (10 to 100 μM) during the day may favour the generation of oxidised lipid molecules (lipid peroxidation) induced by UV rays, thereby damaging cells. This study suggests that, despite its antioxidant properties, ascorbyl palmitate could exacerbate skin lesions via this mechanism following UVB irradiation.

  However, this is a study in vitro, which means that it was conducted on human keratinocyte cultures rather than on real people.

  Moreover, another study revealed that this amphiphilic antioxidant binds to the surface of human erythrocytes, where it contributes to protecting the cell membrane from peroxidative damage induced by external oxidants and thus strengthens the cell’s defences against external oxidative stress. Consequently, studies in vivo are needed to shed further light.

  Knowing that the sun creams are only partially effective at neutralising free radicals generated by UV exposure, the addition of antioxidants, such as ascorbyl palmitate, would help to enhance the efficacy of sun protection.

• Anti-erythema function: An initial study was conducted in which individuals who had suffered sunburn and were treated with topical ascorbyl palmitate (5%) exhibited a 50% earlier reduction in redness compared with areas that did not receive it. In a second experiment, the forearms of five subjects were left unprotected (controls) or received a local application of 3% ascorbyl palmitate prior to UVB exposure. Compared with untreated skin, absence of erythema or a reduction in erythema was observed following pre-treatment with ascorbyl palmitate. These data demonstrate its photoprotective nature, probably
  attributed to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

Compared with other forms of vitamin C, ascorbyl palmitate exhibits moisturising properties thanks to its palmitate moiety.

• Inhibitor of melanin production (anti-melanogenesis): a single-centre study investigating the synergistic effect of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate reported a significant reduction in melanin content after 12 weeks of application. They are thought to interact with copper ions at the active sites of tyrosinase, the main enzyme responsible for converting tyrosine into melanin, thereby inhibiting its activity. By reducing melanin synthesis, these vitamin C derivatives could thus help to diminish the brown spots. However, although ascorbyl palmitate has been shown to potentially inhibit melanin production, studies remain limited and it may not be as effective as other active ingredients.

A clinical study in 11 adult women showed that the combined use of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate could reduce the skin’s sebum levels, owing to their potential to inhibit 5-α-reductase.

Can ascorbyl palmitate be safely used on human skin?

Widely endorsed by regulatory bodies such as the FDA, ascorbyl palmitate is listed among the substances recognised as safe and non-irritating for most skin types at commonly used concentrations. Although the data concur that it exhibits a lower irritation potential, some individuals may still experience adverse reactions.

In rare cases, it may cause skin irritation, erythema and/or dryness, particularly in individuals with sensitive skin or those suffering from a skin condition. Therefore, it is advisable to exercise some caution before using this active ingredient. It is recommended to perform an epicutaneous test on a small area of the body before using more broadly products containing ascorbyl palmitate.

"Ascorbyl Palmitate": how can it aid in a formulation?

Present in over a thousand cosmetic formulations (lip balms, after-sun lotions, shampoos, facial serums, etc.), ascorbyl palmitate is believed to have numerous beneficial functions for the skin.

• Antioxidant agent: it helps to protect the skin from oxidative damage caused by free radicals, which are generated by solar radiation, smoking, diet, environmental pollution, and so on. It reduces cellular free radical levels in a dose-dependent manner via an electron transfer and/or donation process. However, its antioxidant activity has only been demonstrated in model systems in vitro, but not in vivo.

  However, one study has shown that the use of ascorbic acid-6-palmitate (10 to 100 μM) during the day may favour the generation of oxidised lipid molecules (lipid peroxidation) induced by UV rays, thereby damaging cells. This study suggests that, despite its antioxidant properties, ascorbyl palmitate could exacerbate skin lesions via this mechanism following UVB irradiation.

  However, this is a study in vitro, which means that it was conducted on human keratinocyte cultures rather than on real people.

  Moreover, another study revealed that this amphiphilic antioxidant binds to the surface of human erythrocytes, where it contributes to protecting the cell membrane from peroxidative damage induced by external oxidants and thus strengthens the cell’s defences against external oxidative stress. Consequently, studies in vivo are needed to shed further light.

  Knowing that the sun creams are only partially effective at neutralising free radicals generated by UV exposure, the addition of antioxidants, such as ascorbyl palmitate, would help to enhance the efficacy of sun protection.

• Anti-erythema function: An initial study was conducted in which individuals who had suffered sunburn and were treated with topical ascorbyl palmitate (5%) exhibited a 50% earlier reduction in redness compared with areas that did not receive it. In a second experiment, the forearms of five subjects were left unprotected (controls) or received a local application of 3% ascorbyl palmitate prior to UVB exposure. Compared with untreated skin, absence of erythema or a reduction in erythema was observed following pre-treatment with ascorbyl palmitate. These data demonstrate its photoprotective nature, probably
  attributed to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

Compared with other forms of vitamin C, ascorbyl palmitate exhibits moisturising properties thanks to its palmitate moiety.

• Inhibitor of melanin production (anti-melanogenesis): a single-centre study investigating the synergistic effect of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate reported a significant reduction in melanin content after 12 weeks of application. They are thought to interact with copper ions at the active sites of tyrosinase, the main enzyme responsible for converting tyrosine into melanin, thereby inhibiting its activity. By reducing melanin synthesis, these vitamin C derivatives could thus help to diminish the brown spots. However, although ascorbyl palmitate has been shown to potentially inhibit melanin production, studies remain limited and it may not be as effective as other active ingredients.

A clinical study in 11 adult women showed that the combined use of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate could reduce the skin’s sebum levels, owing to their potential to inhibit 5-α-reductase.

Can ascorbyl palmitate be safely used on human skin?

Widely endorsed by regulatory bodies such as the FDA, ascorbyl palmitate is listed among the substances recognised as safe and non-irritating for most skin types at commonly used concentrations. Although the data concur that it exhibits a lower irritation potential, some individuals may still experience adverse reactions.

In rare cases, it may cause skin irritation, erythema and/or dryness, particularly in individuals with sensitive skin or those suffering from a skin condition. Therefore, it is advisable to exercise some caution before using this active ingredient. It is recommended to perform an epicutaneous test on a small area of the body before using more broadly products containing ascorbyl palmitate.

"Ascorbyl Palmitate": how can it aid in a formulation?

Present in over a thousand cosmetic formulations (lip balms, after-sun lotions, shampoos, facial serums, etc.), ascorbyl palmitate is believed to have numerous beneficial functions for the skin.

• Antioxidant agent: it helps to protect the skin from oxidative damage caused by free radicals, which are generated by solar radiation, smoking, diet, environmental pollution, and so on. It reduces cellular free radical levels in a dose-dependent manner via an electron transfer and/or donation process. However, its antioxidant activity has only been demonstrated in model systems in vitro, but not in vivo.

  However, one study has shown that the use of ascorbic acid-6-palmitate (10 to 100 μM) during the day may favour the generation of oxidised lipid molecules (lipid peroxidation) induced by UV rays, thereby damaging cells. This study suggests that, despite its antioxidant properties, ascorbyl palmitate could exacerbate skin lesions via this mechanism following UVB irradiation.

  However, this is a study in vitro, which means that it was conducted on human keratinocyte cultures rather than on real people.

  Moreover, another study revealed that this amphiphilic antioxidant binds to the surface of human erythrocytes, where it contributes to protecting the cell membrane from peroxidative damage induced by external oxidants and thus strengthens the cell’s defences against external oxidative stress. Consequently, studies in vivo are needed to shed further light.

  Knowing that the sun creams are only partially effective at neutralising free radicals generated by UV exposure, the addition of antioxidants, such as ascorbyl palmitate, would help to enhance the efficacy of sun protection.

• Anti-erythema function: An initial study was conducted in which individuals who had suffered sunburn and were treated with topical ascorbyl palmitate (5%) exhibited a 50% earlier reduction in redness compared with areas that did not receive it. In a second experiment, the forearms of five subjects were left unprotected (controls) or received a local application of 3% ascorbyl palmitate prior to UVB exposure. Compared with untreated skin, absence of erythema or a reduction in erythema was observed following pre-treatment with ascorbyl palmitate. These data demonstrate its photoprotective nature, probably
  attributed to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

Compared with other forms of vitamin C, ascorbyl palmitate exhibits moisturising properties thanks to its palmitate moiety.

• Inhibitor of melanin production (anti-melanogenesis): a single-centre study investigating the synergistic effect of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate reported a significant reduction in melanin content after 12 weeks of application. They are thought to interact with copper ions at the active sites of tyrosinase, the main enzyme responsible for converting tyrosine into melanin, thereby inhibiting its activity. By reducing melanin synthesis, these vitamin C derivatives could thus help to diminish the brown spots. However, although ascorbyl palmitate has been shown to potentially inhibit melanin production, studies remain limited and it may not be as effective as other active ingredients.

A clinical study in 11 adult women showed that the combined use of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate could reduce the skin’s sebum levels, owing to their potential to inhibit 5-α-reductase.

Can ascorbyl palmitate be safely used on human skin?

Widely endorsed by regulatory bodies such as the FDA, ascorbyl palmitate is listed among the substances recognised as safe and non-irritating for most skin types at commonly used concentrations. Although the data concur that it exhibits a lower irritation potential, some individuals may still experience adverse reactions.

In rare cases, it may cause skin irritation, erythema and/or dryness, particularly in individuals with sensitive skin or those suffering from a skin condition. Therefore, it is advisable to exercise some caution before using this active ingredient. It is recommended to perform an epicutaneous test on a small area of the body before using more broadly products containing ascorbyl palmitate.

• Supplier data sheet.

• BETTERO A. et al. Stability of vitamin C derivatives in solution and topical formulations. Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis (1997).

• MAY J. M. et al. Ascorbate 6-palmitate protects human red blood cells from oxidative damage. Free Radical Biology and Medicine (1999).

• PEUS D. et al. Vitamin C derivative ascorbyl palmitate promotes ultraviolet‐B‐induced lipid peroxidation and cytotoxicity in keratinocytes. Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2002).

• PECAR S. et al. Skin protection against ultraviolet-induced free radicals using ascorbyl palmitate in microemulsions. European Journal of Pharmaceutics and Biopharmaceutics (2003).

• Moyano M. A. et al. Stability of vitamin C derivatives in topical formulations containing lipoic acid, vitamins A and E. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2008).

• STAMFORD N. P. J. Stability, transdermal penetration and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2012).

• NAWAZ Z. et al. Synergistic effects of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate incorporated in multiple emulsions on facial skin melanin and erythema levels. Biomedical Research (2016).

• ALI A. et al. Evaluation of the combined effect of ascorbyl palmitate (AP) and sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) on facial skin sebum control in healthy female volunteers. Drug Research (2017).

• HELDRETH B. & al. Safety assessment of ethers and esters of ascorbic acid as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology (2022).