"Ascorbyl Palmitate": what is its purpose in cosmetics?

Key points to remember about Ascorbyl Palmitate.

"Ascorbyl Palmitate" is the INCI name of ascorbyl palmitate, one of the ester derivatives of vitamin C.
It is obtained following theassociation between ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and a long-chain saturated fatty acid (palmitic acid).
The palmitic ester exhibits enhanced cutaneous penetration and stability compared with vitamin C, as well as being less irritating.
As a stable derivative of vitamin C, it is endowed with antioxidant, brightening, moisturising, sebum-regulating, anti-inflammatory and stimulating properties upon topical application.
A minimal risk or no adverse effect was observed in the studies at the recommended concentrations for ascorbyl palmitate.

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"Ascorbyl Palmitate": what benefit does it offer in cosmetic formulations?

The vitamin C is available in various active forms, including ascorbyl palmitate (INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate). By definition, it is a synthetic ester derivative of ascorbic acid with lipophilic properties, formed from vitamin C and palmitic acid, a saturated fatty acid.

Anecdote : The ascorbyl palmitate was first marketed in the 1960s as an antioxidant in the food and pharmaceutical sectors. Authorship of its discovery remains a matter of debate between two leading scientists: the American chemist Lloyd A. HALL known for his work identifying the oxidation process in lipid foods, and Dr. Albert SZENT-GYÖRGYI, the Hungarian biochemist, Nobel laureate, renowned for his discovery of ascorbic acid and its antioxidant properties.

Structure du palmitate d'ascorbyl. — Structure of ascorbyl palmitate.
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Ascorbyl palmitate was specifically developed to overcome the stability and permeability issues of the vitamin C, while preserving its benefits. Indeed, although it is one of the most potent antioxidants, vitamin C oxidises rapidly when exposed to light, thus ceasing to deliver the expected results and causing undesirable effects.

One of the main advantages of ascorbyl palmitate over its homologues is its solubility. This ascorbic acid ester exhibits amphiphilic properties, with both hydrophilic and lipophilic characteristics, allowing it to dissolve in aqueous and lipid solutions.

It is also known to be effective at a neutral pH, unlike pure vitamin C, which requires a pH below 3.5 to improve its stability and facilitate its penetration, thereby making ascorbyl palmitate easier to formulate and less irritating.

Chemical and physical properties	Values
Chemical formula	C22H38O7
Synonym	Ascorbic acid-6-palmitate, vitamin C palmitate, ascorbate 6-palmitate, vitamin C ester, L-ascorbic acid 6-hexadecanoate, 6-O-palmitoyl-L-ascorbic acid, palmitoyl-L-ascorbic acid
Aspect	White to pale yellow powder
Molar mass
Dosage	Often used at concentrations between 0.05% and 1%.
Solubility	Soluble in alcohol and fats; slightly soluble in water

However, according to a comparative study, this improved liposoluble variant of ordinary vitamin C appears to maintain a "similar" stability to that of ascorbic acid. Research has even shown that other forms possess superior long-term stability, thus remaining susceptible to degradation resulting from continuous exposure to heat and aerobic conditions.

Indeed, its chemical modification, namely the addition of a lipid component, is located at carbon-6, thus offering poorer protection of ascorbic acid against hydrolysis. However, some data indicate that the stability of ascorbyl palmitate varies according to the structure of the formulated system: gel creams would offer better stability to this ingredient than oil-in-water emulsions.

Furthermore, studies have shown that the encapsulation of ascorbyl palmitate in liposomes can help protect the active ingredient and improve its stability, as well as promote its penetration through the stratum corneum.

Forms of vitamin C	Remaining content of vitamin C or its derivatives after 60 days of storage at ambient temperature	Remaining vitamin C content or that of its derivatives after 60 days’ storage at 42 °C
Pure Vitamin C (INCI : Ascorbic Acid)		0%
Ascorbyl palmitate (INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate)	` tags and preserving `77%	…
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (INCI: Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate)	` tags and ensuring `95%	`…` 83%

Stability analysis of ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.

Aqueous solutions containing 1% ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or ascorbyl palmitate were stored both at room temperature and at 42 °C in the dark for 60 days (accelerated ageing test). Source: BETTERO A. et al. Stability of vitamin C derivatives in solution and topical formulations. Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis (1997).

However, publications have shown that ascorbyl palmitate appears to penetrate the stratum corneum easily due to its lipophilic nature, unlike hydrophilic ascorbic acid. Nonetheless, although it exhibits enhanced skin penetration, it remains on the surface of cells and does not readily convert into L-ascorbic acid, the biologically active form.

"Ascorbyl Palmitate": how can it help in a cosmetic formulation?

Found in more than a thousand cosmetic products (lip balms, after-sun lotions, shampoos, facial serums, pre-shave lotions, etc.), ascorbyl palmitate would, on its own, combine certain of the recognised properties ofascorbic acid and palmitic acid.

Antioxidant agent : Unlike water-soluble vitamin C, ascorbyl palmitate—a lipophilic and amphipathic form—can associate with the cell membrane where it helps to protect membrane lipids from peroxidation. In an in vitro study on human erythrocytes, May et al. (1999) showed that ascorbyl palmitate binds to the external surface of cells and helps to preserve α-tocopherol (vitamin E) and unsaturated fatty acids from oxidation induced by external oxidants. This mechanism relies on its capacity to reduce free radicals and regenerate vitamin E in its active form, thereby limiting membrane damage. These observations support its role as a lipid antioxidant protector, although additional in vivo studies are needed to confirm these biological effects.
Indirect anti-inflammatory function: A preliminary study was carried out in which subjects with sunburn treated with 5% topical ascorbyl palmitate exhibited a reduction in erythema roughly 50% faster than untreated areas. These findings were supported by a clinical trial in Asian women, where the local application of a topical formulation combining ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate significantly reduced facial erythema. The researchers attributed these effects to the antioxidant activity of ascorbyl palmitate: by dampening the oxidative signal, it slows the activation of pro-inflammatory pathways.
Melanin production inhibitor (anti-melanogenesis): A clinical study conducted on 33 Asian women assessed the effect of an emulsion combining ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate on skin pigmentation. After 12 weeks of application, the results showed a significant reduction in melanin content, suggesting a synergistic depigmenting action of the two vitamin C derivatives.
This result can be explained by their antioxidant action: by neutralising free radicals, they limit the activation of signalling pathways that stimulate tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanin synthesis. By thus reducing the oxidative stimulation of melanocytes, this combination could help to attenuate the brown spots. However, this study has several limitations: it is the only available study, carried out on a combination of two vitamin C derivatives in a small cohort with no pigmentary skin disorders.
Although it has been demonstrated that ascorbyl palmitate may potentially have a lightening and anti-melanogenic effect — attributed to its antioxidant capacity —, the current evidence remains limited, necessitating further research to confirm the intrinsic efficacy of ascorbyl palmitate.
Stimulator of collagen synthesis: In 1998, a study in vitro on cultures of human foreskin fibroblasts demonstrated that ascorbyl palmitate can stimulate collagen synthesis at concentrations between 5 and 20 μM, i.e. at lower doses than ascorbic acid. This level of production was comparable to that obtained with 100 μM of ascorbic acid.
The cells treated with 10 μM of 6-O-palmitoyl ascorbate for 36 hours showed a threefold increase in collagen production compared with that observed with 10 μM of vitamin C.
One possible explanation for the superior efficacy at low doses is the lipid-soluble nature and greater resistance to oxidation of ascorbyl palmitate, allowing it to maintain higher and more sustained concentrations within cells than conventional ascorbic acid. By supporting collagen synthesis, it may thus help preserve skin firmness and elasticity.
Sebum-regulating potential (sebum-regulator): A clinical study conducted on 11 adult women showed that the combined use of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate in an emulsion enabled a reduction in facial skin sebum levels after three weeks of application, owing to their ability to inhibit 5α-reductase and to neutralise the free radicals responsible for lipid peroxidation. This action could be beneficial for combination to oily skin types.
Compared to other forms of vitamin C, ascorbyl palmitate is believed to have moisturising properties owing to its palmitate component.

What are the benefits of ascorbyl palmitate for hair?

In hair care products, ascorbyl palmitate is primarily known for protecting and helping to stabilise oxidation-sensitive active ingredients in hair dyes, as an antioxidant at concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 0.2%. However, to date, no specific study has demonstrated its direct effects on the hair fibre or scalp.

However, by extrapolating from its documented cutaneous effects, it could theoretically help delay the onset of white hair linked to the oxidation of melanocytes and contribute to preserving keratin quality through its antioxidant properties. Nevertheless, these benefits remain hypothetical and require specific clinical studies to be confirmed.

How is ascorbyl palmitate, used in cosmetics, obtained?

Ascorbyl palmitate is produced by an esterification reaction between ascorbic acid and palmitic acid, a saturated fatty acid consisting of 16 carbon atoms and glycerol. There are two principal methods to obtain this lipid-soluble antioxidant. The chemical route is the method traditionally most employed in industry. It typically involves the esterification of ascorbic acid with palmitic acid in the presence of a catalyst, often concentrated sulphuric acid or hydrofluoric acid. However, this process generally requires a high energy input, i.e. an elevated temperature over a prolonged period, up to 10 to 24 hours, and may generate by-products that complicate purification of the final product.

The modern alternative is enzymatic synthesis, regarded as a more environmentally friendly process. This approach employs biocatalysts, notably immobilised lipases, to catalyse the direct esterification of ascorbic acid with palmitic acid in a non-aqueous medium (acetone, acetonitrile, 2-methylbutan-2-ol, etc.). Lipases are preferred because they offer high regioselectivity and allow milder reaction conditions (for example, around 55 °C), which reduces by-product formation, facilitates purification and ensures a high product purity.

Can ascorbyl palmitate be used safely on human skin?

Largely endorsed by regulatory agencies such as the FDA, ascorbyl palmitate is classified among substances recognised as safe and non-irritant for most skin types at the concentrations commonly employed. Although data concur that it exhibits a lower irritant potential, some individuals may nonetheless experience adverse reactions.

In rare cases, it may cause skin irritation, erythema and/or dryness, particularly in individuals with sensitive skin or an existing skin condition. Therefore, a degree of caution is recommended before using this active ingredient. It is thus recommended to carry out an epicutaneous test on a small area of the body before applying more widely products containing ascorbyl palmitate.