"Abies Alba Seed Extract" corresponds to the I.N.C.I. denomination used to refer to thevegetable extract of white fir seeds. This extract helps to reduce hyperpigmentation for a more even complexion, and aids in preventing signs of skin ageing.
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What is "Abies Alba Seed Extract" and what is its utility?
Summary
- The white fir and its plant extract, an overview
- How do we obtain the extract from white fir seeds?
- Extract from the seeds of the white fir tree, the benefits for the skin
- In which Typology skincare product can one find the plant extract from white fir seeds?
- Sources
Published February 5, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
6 min read
The white fir and its plant extract, an overview.
TheAbies alba, commonly known as the Vosges fir or white fir, belongs to the Pinaceae family. It is primarily found in the deciduous forests of Southern, Western, and Central Europe (Alps, Pyrenees, Vosges...). It is one of the most majestic trees on the continent. For centuries, the essential oil of white fir has been used in medicine for its benefits on fever, arthritis, muscle pain, and respiratory problems. In cosmetics, its extract helps toreduce hyperpigmentation for a more even complexion, and helps to prevent the signs of skin ageing.
The white fir is sought after for its resin rich in turpentine, its needles, and its buds. The needles are the source of an essential oil rich in active ingredients, while the buds are utilised in the form of an aqueous extract, also known as I.N.C.I. "Abies Alba Seed Extract".
How do we obtain the extract from white fir seeds?
Firstly, the manual harvesting of fir tree seeds involves climbing up to over 30 metres into the tree, which makes the extracts particularly valuable. Subsequently, the buds undergo an enzymatic extraction that takes place in several stages: crushing of the seeds, agitation, enzymatic reaction, centrifugation, clarification.
At Typology, the white fir buds used are sourced from France, more specifically from the Vosges forest.
Theaqueous extract of white fir obtained is a clear brown liquid. Its concentration is not regulated in a cosmetic product, but it is recommended to incorporate between 0.1 and 2%.
Extract from the seeds of the white fir tree, the benefits for the skin.
Thanks to its biochemical composition, theextract of white fir seeds provides several benefits when applied to the skin:
Combattinghyperpigmentation.
As a reminder, hyperpigmentation is a disruption in the pigmentation process. The melanin, the pigment responsible for the natural colouration of the skin, is overproduced in certain areas, leading to the appearance of brown, red or pink spots that can sometimes be unsightly. These spots vary in size and affect the uniformity of the complexion. Theextract of white fir seeds is capable of inhibiting tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin. The equation is simple: less melanin means fewer pigments, fewer brown spots and a more uniform complexion.
Alleviate inflammations.
The extract of white fir buds diminishes redness,as well asmarksleft by blemishes : we refer to this aspost-inflammatory erythema. Indeed, studies have shown that this plant extract inhibits the secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines, such as interleukin-1 (IL-1).
Preventing the signs of skin ageing.
An investigation in vitro on the monolayer culture of dermal fibroblasts shows that a concentration of 0.5% ofwhite fir seed plant extract inhibits up to 62% of the concentration of beta-galactosidase. This compound is produced by fibroblasts and is considered a marker of cellular senescence. In biology, senescence is a stateof the cellcharacterised by an irreversible halt of the cell cycle and thus associated with the ageing of the organism and more specifically, the skin.
In which Typology skincare product can one find the plant extract from white fir seeds?
The botanical antioxidant mist with green tea hydrosol is a portable treatment to be applied to the face at any time of the day. The antioxidant and rebalancing actives present in this mist help to defend the skin against free radicals, in order to restore radiance and uniformity to the complexion.
Note : This treatment also containsbitter orange petitgrain essential oil, and should therefore not be used by pregnant or breastfeeding women.
Sources:
YANG S.-A. & al. Radical scavenging activity of the essential oil of silver fir (Abies alba). Journal of Clinical Biochemistry and Nutrition (2009).
WILLFÖR S. & al. Chemical composition and content of lipophilic seed extractives of some Abies and Picea species. Chemistry & Biodiversity (2016).
ZORKO M. S. & al. Efficacy of a polyphenolic extract from silver fir (Abies alba) bark on psoriasis: a randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. Pharmazie (2018).
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