AE(+) skin typology: what exactly is it?

Cutaneous ageing: ABSENT (A)

Oxidising factors: EXPOSED (E)

Sebum production: ELEVATED (+)

Discover here information on the 24 skin profiles defined by Typology.

The letter “A” denotes skin without visible signs of ageing. Three main manifestations typically mark the emergence of age-related signs: wrinkles, the skin laxity, or volume loss, and loss of density. In general, it is around 25 years of age that these initial changes become noticeable, reflecting progressive alterations within the various layers of the skin : a slowing of cell renewal, reduced lipid production, diminished synthesis of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid by fibroblasts, as well as a decrease in both the volume and number of adipose cells.

Although skin ageing is a natural and inevitable phenomenon, it is still possible to slow its progression by acting on certain factors that influence the rate of this process, notably solar exposures that generate oxidative stress within the skin’s cells.

The second letter "E" corresponds to the level of exposure and protection of the skin against everyday environmental stressors, such as the solar radiation, the pollution, the tobacco, stress or even the alcohol. These external factors promote the formation of free radicals, unstable and highly reactive molecules capable of damaging skin cells. This production of free radicals is a normal biochemical phenomenon inherent to any living organism that uses oxygen.

However, when the production of these reactive species exceeds the skin’s natural antioxidant defence capacity, an imbalance occurs: this is oxidative stress. This then acts at depth, progressively damaging the structures of the skin tissue. Collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, membrane lipids, and even cellular DNA become the targets of repeated assaults. These cellular oxidation processes weaken the extracellular matrix and accelerate skin ageing, which in the long term can contribute to more serious alterations, such as the development of skin cancers. The first visible signs are the gradual appearance of wrinkles, a loss of firmness, and a dull complexion.

To slow these effects and bolster the skin’s antioxidant defences, we recommend incorporating into your skincare routine products rich in antioxidants, such as vitamin C, ferulic acid or resveratrol, in addition to appropriate sun protection.

The AE(+) skin type is distinguished by a production of sebum naturally elevated, a phenomenon called hyperseborrhoea. This overproduction is initially physiological, as it depends primarily on hormonal activity, particularly androgens, which stimulate the sebaceous glands. However, several environmental and behavioural factors can amplify it: heat, circadian rhythm, the use of certain medications, a diet rich in sugars and fats, or stress.

This skin type benefits from a hydrolipidic film abundant, providing an effective skin barrier against dehydration and external aggressors. However, this surplus sebum can also become a source of discomfort or self-consciousness. It often manifests as a shiny and oily appearance, a visible enlargement of the pores, the frequent formation of blackheads and of pimples, as well as an uneven skin texture. Furthermore, the complexion may appear lacklustre, as light reflects less effectively off an irregular, congested skin surface. Conversely, this thicker, better-protected skin typically ages more slowly, since its rich lipid film limits transepidermal water loss.

Taking care of AE(+) skin consists in regulating sebum production without compromising the skin barrier, while protecting it from oxidation. Contrary to popular belief, one must not try to strip the skin, as overly aggressive cleansing may trigger a rebound in sebaceous gland activity. It is therefore preferable to favour cleansers that are gentle at physiological pH, capable of removing excess sebum and impurities while respecting the hydrolipidic film.

Moreover, the daily use of a lightweight moisturiser helps to maintain the skin’s balance, even if the skin is oily. Gel-cream textures, which have a higher proportion of humectants, such as glycerine or hyaluronic acid, than of emollients, such as ceramides and vegetable oils, are ideal for hydrating these skin types without weighing them down. Meanwhile, certain active ingredients can help rebalance sebum production and reduce inflammation, such as niacinamide, zinc or azelaic acid.

Finally, a daily sun protection is also essential for countering oxidative stress. To bolster this defence, it may be worthwhile to incorporate antioxidant serums, such as those rich in vitamin C or ferulic acid.

"My routine has delivered smoother, clearer, rehydrated skin. It is difficult to find healthy products that suit my skin, but I have to admit I am thoroughly won over by the products offered by Typology." Margaux D. – Typologist AE(+)