Tranexamic Acid: How To Use It?

It is a synthetic form of lysine, one of our body's essential amino acids.

This compound has been used orally for many years. It is a drug with coagulant properties that can limit excessive blood loss caused by major trauma, surgery, postpartum bleeding and heavy menstruation. It is on the World Health Organization (WHO) list of essential medicines.

When applied to the skin, its lightening properties on pigmentation spots were discovered recently and are now the subject of a growing number of scientific studies. The lightening properties of tranexamic acid is based on the inhibition of the release of inflammatory agents involved in the triggering of melanogenesis. A 2019 study shows that it offers the same results on melasma reduction as hydroquinone (banned in all cosmetic products by European regulation since 2001), but without the side effects. Concerning post-acne marks, a 2022 study demonstrated that tranexamic acid was useful in reducing the appearance of these marks, with little risk of side effects. In addition, this depigmenting action is also beneficial in combating dark circles.

Tranexamic acid is particularly suitable for skin with pigmentation spots and/or dark circles. Indeed, this compound is effective against the following three types of brown spots:

• Pregnancy mask caused by hormonal imbalances;

• Lentigo or sun spots due to excessive and repeated sun exposure;

• Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation resulting from an overproduction of melanin after an inflammation (wounds, burns, blemishes, acne outbreaks).

Tranexamic acid is a recent active ingredient that is still quite rare in cosmetic formulas. The types of care in which this compound can be integrated are acidic tonic lotions, anti-spot serums or eye contour creams to fight against pigmentation rings.

First of all, to be effective on pigmentation spots, the concentration of tranexamic acid must be between 2 and 5% in a treatment. Increasing its concentration does not improve its effects but presents a risk of irritation.

As mentioned earlier, this acid is a form of lysine, an amino acid naturally present in the skin. This mild acid should be therefore generally safe when applied to the skin twice a day, morning and evening (it is not photo-sensitizing). On sensitive or irritated skin, its use will initially be limited to once a day. If you notice that the skin tolerates the care well, you can then pass to two applications per day. If irritation or discomfort occurs, stop using the product immediately.

Note: Tranexamic acid treatment can be used locally on the spots to be reduced (body and/or face) or on the whole face. For the type of use, it is advised to refer to the indications present on the product.

The Hyperpigmentation and Firming Serum contains 5% tranexamic acid. This treatment reduces and prevents the appearance of pigmentation spots, particularly of the melasma type, and promotes the firming of the skin. This causes the complexion to become even, the skin to be smoother and firmer. It also contains acetyl tetrapeptide-2, a peptide composed of four amino acids that stimulates the synthesis of key molecules involved in the support and firmness of the skin: elastin, collagen and fibrillin.

The use of this serum is simple. Simply apply 3 to 4 drops to a clean, dry face morning and night, avoiding the eye area, then gently massage the face and neck with upward strokes.

To optimize the firming benefits, you can use this serum in combination with the retinol face cream.

Don't forget! It is highly recommended to apply a suitable sunscreen to prevent the appearance of new spots and to minimize the evolution over time of current spots. Our SPF30 facial sunscreen is enriched with aloe vera and hyaluronic acid, and offers broad-spectrum protection suitable for daily use.

• JANNEY M. S. & al. A randomized controlled study comparing the efficacy of topical 5% tranexamic acid solution versus 3% hydroquinone cream in melasma. Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery (2019).

• ETESAMI I & al. Post-acne erythema treatment: A systematic review of the literature.Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2022).