Here's what you need to know about tranexamic acid.

Thetranexamic acid is a synthetic derivative of lysine, an amino acid found in the skin. To remind, amino acids are the building blocks of proteins. When taken orally, tranexamic acid is used in medicine to treat excessive blood loss caused by major trauma, surgery, postpartum bleeding, and heavy menstruation due to its coagulating properties. It is even listed on the World Health Organisation's (WHO) list of essential medicines.

The brightening virtues of tranexamic acid were recently discovered by a healthcare professional. While his patient was taking this molecule to treat his chronic urticaria, he observed a lightening and discolouration of his skin.

In skincare, this active ingredient is referred to by the I.N.C.I. name "Tranexamic Acid". It offers several benefits:

• Diminishing the appearance of pigmented spots.

  Hyperpigmentation is a disruption in the pigmentation process: melanin, the pigment responsible for the natural colouration of the skin, is overproduced in certain areas. The spots that then appear vary in size and affect the uniformity of the complexion. They can be categorised into three types: melasma , caused by hormonal imbalances, lentigo , due to excessive and repeated sun exposure, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation marks , which result from an overproduction of melanin following inflammation (injuries, burns, blemishes, acne outbreaks).

  The mechanism of action of tranexamic acid is still poorly identified, but it is believed to rest on the inhibition of the release of inflammatory mediators involved in triggering melanogenesis.A 2019 study shows that it provides the same results in reducing melasma as hydroquinone, but with fewer side effects. As a reminder, hydroquinone has been banned in all cosmetic products by European regulation since 2001. Regarding acne marks, a 2022 study demonstrated that tranexamic acid was useful in reducing the appearance of these lesions, with little risk of side effects.

• Strengthening the skin barrier.

  A 2015 study found that a topical treatment with 3% tranexamic acid for 2 weeks improves the visible signs of rosacea. The researchers then established a link between this reduction in symptoms and the improvement of the skin barrier.

Firstly, to be effective on pigmentation spots, the concentration of tranexamic acid must be between 2 and 5% in a skincare product. Increasing its concentration will not enhance its effects but poses a risk of irritation.

Derived from lysine, an amino acid naturally present in the skin, tranexamic acid is generally safe for topical application, at a frequency of twice daily, morning and evening. On sensitive skin or irritated skin, its use should initially be limited to once a day. If you notice that the skin tolerates the treatment well, you can then move to two applications per day. In case of irritations or uncomfortable sensations, immediately stop using the treatment.

Our hyperpigmentation and firmness serum is composed of 5% tranexamic acid. This treatment reduces and prevents the appearance of pigmentation spots and promotes skin firming.The complexion is even, the skin is smoother and firmer. It also contains acetyl tetrapeptide-2, a peptide made up of four amino acids that stimulate the synthesis of key molecules involved in skin support and firmness: elastin, collagen and fibrillin.

This serum should be applied morning and evening to a clean, dry face. To optimise the firming benefits, you can follow this serum with aretinol face cream. Furthermore, it is strongly recommended to apply suitable sun protection to prevent the appearance of new brown spots and to minimise the progression of current marks over time. Every morning, apply a face sun cream enriched with hydrating agents, such as aloe vera and hyaluronic acid. It offers broad-spectrum protection suitable for daily use.

• NAEINI F. F. & al. Topical tranexamic acid as a promising treatment for melasma. Journalof Research inMedical Sciences (2014).

• ZHONG S. & al. Topical tranexamic acid enhances the permeability barrier in rosacea.Dermatologica Sinica (2015).

• JANNEY M. S. & al. A randomized controlled study comparing the efficacy of topical 5% tranexamic acid solution versus 3% hydroquinone cream in melasma. Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery (2019).

• WANG J. V. & al. Tranexamic acid for melasma: Evaluating the various formulations. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (2019).

• ETESAMI I & al. Treatment of post-acne erythema: A systematic review of the literature. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2022).