The secrets of an effective gentle peel.

The gentle or superficial peel is typically performed using treatments primarily based on fruit acids or A.H.A. of natural origin. Among these, you will notably find glycolic acid or lactic acid. The purpose of this process is to eliminate dead cells on the surface of the epidermis, by reducing their adhesion. This will then boost the renewal of skin cells to rejuvenate the skin. Thus, the gentle peel helps to tackle minor imperfections (blackheads, acne, etc...), tighten dilated pores, regulate sebum secretion, refine and even out skin texture, brighten the complexion and smooth out irregularities.

Less concentrated than those performed by a dermatologist (around 10% compared to over 30% by the doctor), the gentle peel is suitable for almost all skin types. Indeed, sensitive skin types, prone to rosacea or any other skin condition, must be cautious in their choice of peel treatment, lest their conditions worsen (irritation, redness etc...). Therefore, ensure you select a product that is suitable for your skin type. For instance, the lactic acid serum or the peel mask containing P.H.A. may be suitable, as they are less abrasive than glycolic acid treatments. Of course, as with all cosmetics, we advise you to apply the product to the crook of your elbow for 24 to 48 hours before first use to see if your skin tolerates the treatment well or not. Similarly, those who have allergic reactions to the active ingredients used should refrain from using them.

On the day of the peel, prepare your skin to receive the treatment by performing a double cleanse. Start by thoroughly removing your makeup to rid yourself of any makeup residue using a makeup remover , and continue by washing your face and neck with a cleansing gel suitable for your skin type to finish removing all forms of impurities (pollution residues, dust, sebum, etc...). Once the skin has been properly cleaned and dried, it's time to apply your peel treatment. Those to be done at home come in the form of serum, cream, lotion or mask:

• If you choose a serum, whether it is based onlactic acid orglycolic acid, take a few drops of the product and spread it over your entire clean and dry face and neck, allowing it to penetrate through small circular movements and avoiding the eye contour;

• If you opt for the peeling mask, apply it in a semi-thick layer on your previously cleaned and dried face and neck, and leave it on for 10 minutes before rinsing thoroughly. This treatment should be used once or twice a week;

• For the exfoliating lotion, to be applied just after cleansing the skin, simply soak a cotton pad with the product and gently dab the epidermis, avoiding the eye contour.

Even if the treatments are lightly concentrated, peeling remains a relatively "aggressive" technique for the epidermis, much like exfoliating. Indeed, the skin that has undergone slight desquamation is more sensitive and fragile. Therefore, always remember to accompany the use of exfoliating acids with a moisturising and soothing treatment suited to your skin type. Similarly, during the day, the skin surface must always be protected from ultraviolet rays with a SPF product. Indeed, exfoliating acids tend to be photosensitive and therefore react upon contact with UV rays, which can lead to the appearance of pigmentation spots. In the same vein, it is preferable to apply these treatments during your evening beauty routine to allow time for the epidermis and the hydrolipidic film to rebuild. Moreover, do not perform peeling on freshly waxed or vigorously exfoliated skin, those with sunburn or any type of wound.

Sources:

TRUCHUELOA M., CERDAB P. & FERNANDEZ L.F. Chemical Peeling: A Valuable Instrument in the Clinic. Actas Dermo-Sifiliograficas. 2017; 108(4):315-322.

FUNASAKA Y., ABDEL-DAIM M., KAWANA S. & NISHIGORI C. The impact of chemical peeling on the skin in relation to UV exposure. Experimental Dermatology. 2012; 21(s1):31-35.