Grain scrub or chemical peel: which to choose for exfoliating the lips?

Grain-based scrubs are popular treatments for exfoliating the skin, including that of the lips. Also referred to as mechanical exfoliants due to their mode of action, these treatments rely on the use of solid particles which, by rubbing the skin's surface, remove dead cells. For instance, scrubs based on sugar or fruit kernels, such as apricot or plum, can be found. This type of exfoliant is applied by making circular movements, which help to rid the skin of its impurities and dead cells. The main advantage of this type of treatment is that it allows for instant and visible exfoliation. As soon as a grain-based scrub is applied, the lips become smoother and softer.

However, it's worth noting that grainy scrubs, if used too vigorously or repeatedly, can damage the skin barrier of the lips. This can create micro-lesions and, over time, slight bleeding from the lips. To avoid these issues, it's important to gently scrub your lips and not exceed one exfoliation per week. Also, ensure to use scrubs with very fine grains, which are less likely to weaken the lips, and only apply products formulated for this sensitive area, as body scrubs often contain larger grains.

Grain scrubs provide effective exfoliation for the lips, but it is advisable to choose those with fine grains to avoid damaging the skin barrier of this sensitive area.

Unlike mechanical exfoliants, chemical peels rely on the action of keratolytic agents that do not require friction. These active ingredients work by breaking the intercorneocyte bonds, which allows the release of dead cells and makes the lips softer, plumper and ready to receive further care. Indeed, the repairing and nourishing actives present in the balms or lip masks are more readily absorbed by the lips when they are not covered by impurities.

Chemical peels are often considered less aggressive for the lips than mechanical scrubs, a claim that needs to be nuanced. Indeed, there are several types of lip peels: those that can be performed at home and are indeed gentler than grain scrubs, and those performed in a beauty salon. The latter have a corrective action on deep wrinkles but carry risks of complications: abscesses, inflammatory reactions, fever, pain, swelling, erythema, etc. That's why it is recommended to have a preoperative consultation with a cosmetic doctor or a dermatologist before resorting to this type of peel.

Regarding superficial peels, even though they are gentle, it is important to follow the recommendations provided on the products. Indeed, too frequent application or an overly long exposure time can lead to undesirable reactions, such as redness or tingling, particularly in individuals with sensitive skin.

At Typology, we offer you a gentle peel for the lips enriched with mandelic acid and pomegranate enzyme. Formulated with 96% natural origin ingredients, this treatment removes dead cells and leaves the lips soft and supple.

The choice between a granular scrub or a chemical peel primarily depends on the nature of your lips and your preferences. Granular scrubs and chemical peels are both effective exfoliants, each having pros and cons. If your lips are rather resilient and you wish to see immediate results, a granular scrub may be a good option. However, we advise you to choose a product specifically formulated for this sensitive area with fine grains, to avoid excessive abrasion.

On the contrary, if your lips are sensitive or often prone to chapping, it is advisable to opt for a chemical peel. Although its immediate action is more subtle, it also offers lasting results, particularly in improving the texture and softness of the lips. The chemical peel also helps to minimise the risk of irritation, provided it is applied according to the supplier's recommendations. Whatever your choice, if you wish to see results, lip exfoliation must be embedded in a regular routine and not be an occasional procedure.

After exfoliation, it is beneficial to nourish the lips with a moisturising balm or a restorative mask to maintain their balance.

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• ISHIKAWA J. & al. Variations in the ceramide profile in different seasons and regions of the body contribute to stratum corneum functions. Archives of Dermatological Research (2013).

• CHANANA C. & al. A perspective on what’s new in chemical peels. Perspective (2022).