Which deodorant for dry skin?

The underarms are a delicate area, often prone to excessive flaking due to two main factors: repeated waxing or shaving and daily friction with clothing/skin.

The skin of the underarms is often drier than elsewhere, and sometimes even irritated with accompanying redness and feelings of tightness. We also observe sometimes a "crocodile skin" effect with scales or even cracks.

From a biological perspective, dry skin is characterised by a disruption in cellular cohesion, a deficiency in natural moisturising factors (NMF), and an insufficiency in the production of lipids.

Unlike antiperspirants, deodorants do not block perspiration. The use of deodorants is recommended for low to moderate sweat flow. Deodorants today come in several forms: roll-on, solid stick, spray and cream.

To fulfil their primary function, which is to mask unpleasant odours without blocking sweat, deodorants incorporate various ingredients. If you have sensitive and dry skin, some are particularly not recommended. Here are the three categories of ingredients that a deodorant typically contains, with our recommendations for dry skin cases:

• The antibacterial agents:

  Which ones to favour? Sensitive skin should favour gentle and natural antibacterial agents such as essential oils (palmarosa, peppermint, lavender...). Organic deodorants also sometimes contain triethyl citrate, an alternative to aluminium salts. Due to its ability to inhibit the enzymatic decomposition of sweat components, it is an excellent active ingredient in the fight against body odours.

  Which ones to avoid? Some more "conventional" deodorants may contain triclocarban or triclosan. However, these are endocrine disruptors as well as potentialskin irritants and eye irritants. They are also suspected of increasing the risk of breast cancer. Moreover, avoid choosing a deodorant that containsalcohol. Used for its antibacterial virtues but also for its ability to "dry out" the deodorant more quickly, alcohol has a strong drying effect and can cause irritation, redness and tingling in the armpits. Finally, some deodorants contain parabens which act as preservatives but also as antimicrobial agents. However, these compounds are recognised endocrine disruptors (= which disrupt hormonal balance). Therefore, avoid choosing a deodorant containing, for example, Butylparaben or Propylparaben in its INCI list. It should be noted that manufacturers have replaced these preservatives with other ingredients such as MCIT (methylchloroisothiazolinone) or MIT (methylisothiazolinone). However, due to constant exposure to the same substances, the skin sometimes develops sensitivities to these compounds.

• Absorbent Powders:

  Which ones to favour? Thanks to their microporous structures, certain clays such as the diatomaceous earth powder or even the white clay are drying agents that can absorb their weight in moisture. Their antibacterial action also acts on the bacteria present on the skin, thus limiting the appearance of bad odours. Among the absorbent powders, it is also possible to mention baking soda, common in natural deodorants as an alternative to aluminium salts.

  Which one to avoid? Talc! This mineral powder is widely controversial today. In 2012, ANSES concluded that it was not possible to exclude the presence of asbestos fibres in certain talc deposits. Moreover, studies have demonstrated harmful effects on the respiratory system following the inhalation of talc.

• Fragrance agents :

  They are incorporated into formulas to mask odours. Which ones should be favoured? Natural and non-allergenic fragrances such as vanillin or nerol, for example.

  Which ones to avoid? Synthetic fragrances, generally irritating, as well as certain natural odorous molecules with a recognised allergenic power such as linalool or citral.