Tea tree essential oil: what is this solution against skin imperfections?

Thetea tree essential oil is extracted from the leaves of the tree Melaleuca alternifolia. According to the I.N.C.I. classification, it is named as "Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil".

The Tea tree, also known as tea tree plant or alternatively leafed melaleuca, is a shrub native to New Caledonia and Madagascar, but the leading producer today is Australia.

The essential oil of the tea tree is extracted byhydrodistillationof theleaves, that is, by steam distillation. The principle involves heating a mixture of water and leaves to evaporate the volatile molecules and collect them following condensation. This method allows for the extraction of two substances, namely the hydrosol and the essential oil. Thetea tree essential oilis a clear liquid ranging from colourless to pale yellow. It emits a powerful, herbaceous and fresh scent. It primarily containsmonoterpenols(about 45% of terpinen-4-ol) andmonoterpenes(gamma-terpinene, alpha-terpinene, limonene). These compounds are responsible for itspurifying and sanitising properties.

This essential oil offers numerous benefits. Notably, it helps to reduce symptoms caused by an inflammatory response, fights against bacteria, and treats infections. It is for this reason that it has gained a certain reputation in aromatherapy.

Rich in monoterpenic alcohols and in hydrocarbons, this essential oil is known for its broad-spectrum action in combating bacteria and treating infections. Indeed, it has demonstrated excellent bactericidal properties (killing bacteria) as well as bacteriostatic properties (inhibiting bacterial growth). Thus, it helps to limit the proliferation of microorganisms involved in acne such as Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis.

What is its anti-bacterial mode of action? Studies have shown that the constituents of tea tree essential oil work by depleting the constituents of the bacterial cell membrane. More specifically, the hydrocarbon structure and lipophilicity (attraction to fats) of the terpenes present in this essential oil lead to lysis and thus the loss of functional integrity of bacterial membranes. This membrane destruction causes a leakage of potassium ions, thereby inhibiting cellular respiration. The compound 1,8-cineole present in this essential oil plays an important role in this phenomenon. It causes a permeabilisation of the bacterial membrane, thus facilitating the entry of more active bactericidal molecules from the essential oil such as terpinen-4-ol.

A study has revealed that a gel containing 5% tea tree essential oil is as effective in reducing spots as a lotion containing 5% benzoyl peroxide, a common acne medication. The use of tea tree essential oil also resulted in fewer side effects than benzoyl peroxide.

The essential oil of tea tree is highly potent and can cause redness and irritation when applied undiluted to the skin. For this reason, it should always be diluted in a carrier oil. Mix one drop of tea tree oil with a teaspoon of carrier oil. The jojoba oil is an excellent choice of carrier oil as it possesses sebum-regulating properties. Dip a cotton swab into the mixture and apply it directly to the spots. Repeat this process 1 to 2 times per day, as needed.

We have incorporated tea tree essential oil for its purifying virtues into the following four treatments.

• Thepurifying botanical blendwithpeony: This night serum helps to purify the skin through the sebum-regulating and anti-inflammatory actions of 7 botanical extracts.

• Theanti-blemish shower gelwithglycolic acidandtea tree extract. This formula, rich in exfoliating and purifying active ingredients, unclogs pores, reducesblemishesand fights against the appearance ofingrown hairs.

• Thepurifying body serumbased onzinc PCAandtea tree extract. This serum is applied locally to blemishes, only in the evening. It helps to combat spots that do not only appear on the face but can also be found on the body.

• The targeted blemish care Bakuchiol 1% + tea tree extract has been formulated to dry out blemishes and promote skin renewal to minimise scarring. Its poultice-like texture soothes inflammation and reduces the sensation of heat.

• KOCA U. & al. Tea tree oil and its application in aromatherapy. Contemporary Views on Medicinal and Aromatic Plants (2018).

• BARNETSON R. S. & al. A comparative study of tea-tree oil versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acne. The Medical Journal of Australia(1990).

• CARSON C. F. & others Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) oil: a review of antimicrobial and other medicinal properties. Clinical Microbiology Reviews (2006).

• HAMMER K. A. Treatment of acne with tea tree oil (melaleuca) products: A review of efficacy, tolerability and potential modes of action. Journal Of Antimicrobial Agents (2014).