The peony is highly valued in perfumery due to its delicate and floral scent. In skincare, it is used in the form of a cellular extract identified under the INCI name "Paeonia Lactiflora Leaf Cell Extract". It acts on a key enzyme in the epidermis, to limit the overproduction of sebum and mattify the skin.
What are the benefits of peony for the skin?
Summary
Published on October 4, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 3 min of reading
Some general information about the peony.
Botanically named Paeonia officinalis, the officinal peony is a perennial herbaceous plant belonging to the Paeoniaceae family, originating from Central and Eastern Asia. Its growth is slow; it naturally thrives in woods and meadows. Highly celebrated in China for several centuries, this flower with its numerous subspecies gives rise to grand events: floral festivals and exhibitions take place throughout the country during its blooming period, from May to July. Introduced to Europe at the end of the 18th century, it has become a highly appreciated ornamental plant due to its numerous cultivars.
The benefits of peony for the skin.
The peony is used in the form of cellular extract in skincare. Native peony cells are harvested from certain parts of the plant. They are stimulated and treated to reconstitute the active ingredients. These are then multiplied following an ecological biotechnological process.In skincare, native peony cells help to regulate the basic processes involved in hyperseborrhea.
They act on a key enzyme in the epidermis to limit the overproduction of sebum. This enzyme is 5-alpha reductase, a protein responsible for the activity of testosterone, a hormone primarily involved in sebum production. As a reminder, in sebocytes, testosterone is transformed by the 5-alpha reductase enzyme into dihydrotestosterone (DHT). Following several subsequent biochemical reactions, sebum is produced. Thus, hyperseborrhea is either due to an excessive secretion of androgen or a high activity of 5-alpha reductase. By limiting the activity of 5-alpha reductase, the native peony cells limit the overproduction of sebum and therefore the appearance of imperfections related to pore obstruction.
Furthermore, to prevent the flaking of the epidermis on the surface, peony cells strengthen the water circuit and water retention in the epidermis. Concurrently, they limit the release of interleukin-6 (IL-6), a mediator of inflammation, and substance P, a neuropeptide, which appear during sebum production.
Finally, the native cells of peony enhance cellular respiration which leads to the elimination of toxins.
The peony at Typology.
Due to its virtues, peony cellular extract is a particularly recommended active ingredient for oily skin types and skin prone to blemishes. It is present in our purifying botanical blend. This night serum helps to purify the skin thanks to the sebum-regulating and anti-inflammatory actions of 7 botanical extracts. It should be noted, it is contraindicated for pregnant or breastfeeding women due to the presence of essential oil.
