Three products for a radiant, customizable tan — without UV rays

Three products for a radiant, customizable tan — without UV rays

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Squalane : convient-il aux peaux grasses ?

Squalane: Is it suitable for oily skin?

Squalane, a star ingredient in cosmetics for several years.

Squalane is the hydrogenated form of squalene, a lipid that makes up the sebum in humans, a skin-protecting agent that contributes to the formation of the hydrolipidic film. The use of squalane is often preferred over squalene in skin and hair care because this chemical form is more stable (less susceptible to oxidation).

Squalane isperfectly assimilatedby skin cells.Non-greasyandnon-comedogenic, it does not clog pores and quickly penetrates the epidermis to soften its touch. This lipid supply combats skin dryness and helps repair the skin's hydrolipidic film, enabling it to perform its primary function: preventing the body's water from evaporating. The skin remains hydrated for longer and the feelings of tightness characteristic of dry skin are reduced. Squalane also helps to prevent dehydration fine lines. Besides the skin, it can be applied to the hair as a heat protective treatment. Squalane makes the hair shiny and reduces split ends due to its moisturising properties.

Regarding its extraction method, squalane has long been a subject of controversy. Indeed, even today, it can still be extracted from shark livers for economic reasons. This is a real ecological disaster as plant-based alternatives have been available for several years:Squalane can indeed be extracted from sugarcane, wheat germ, palm trees, and olives.At Typology, we only incorporate plant-based squalane in our skincare products; this comes from the unsaponifiable fraction of olive oil or sugarcane.

Squalane and Oily Skin, Incompatible?

According to literature, squalane is minimally comedogenic. It has a comedogenicity index equal to 1. To clarify, a substance is termed "comedogenic" when it clogs pores leading to the formation of comedones (blackheads, whiteheads). The comedogenicity of a component is evaluated on a scale of 0 to 5.

Nevertheless, even though squalane is non-comedogenic, we do not recommend it for skin prone to acne, oily and/or blemished. It is instead advised for taking care of dry and dehydrated skin.

For oily skin, contrary to popular belief, certain plant oils can be good allies in restoring balance, but squalane is not one of them. It is important to favour gentle, non-comedogenic plant oils with a penetrating texture that have purifying, healing and regulating properties.We thus recommend the following plant oils for oily skin: argan, hemp, baobab, jojoba, camellia, hazelnut, prickly pear, carrot or sunflower.

Sources:

  • KARADENIZ F. & al. Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research (2012).

  • Mc PHEE D. & al. Squalane from sugercane. Cosmetics & Toiletries (2014).

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