First studied for its skin benefits in the 1970s, niacinamide has become an indispensable ingredient in skincare and can be found in a wide range of formulations. From soothing the skin, improving hydration, supporting the skin barrier, fading brown spots, reducing pore size, to preventing signs of skin ageing, it is considered a solution for many of the most common skin problems. But how long should one wait before seeing a difference?
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How long does it take to see the results of using products containing niacinamide?
Summary
- Niacinamide treatments: how long before seeing skin changes?
- What do usage tests say about our niacinamide skincare products?
- Sources
Published February 26, 2024,
updated on February 26, 2024,
by
Stéphanie, PhD, Doctorate in Life and Health Sciences
—
11 min read
Niacinamide treatments: how long before seeing skin changes?
As with any new skincare product, you are unlikely to see significant results for several weeks. Although instant effects can be observed, it generally takes 6 to 12 weeks of twice-daily use to see notable results, depending on the severity of your skin issues and the concentration of your product in niacinamide. While most available reports suggest notable improvements after eight weeks of use, there is no precise timeline.
Consistent use is necessary for continuous improvement and maintenance of results.
Diminishing the inflammatory response: The niacinamide soothes and calms skin prone to inflammation or redness by inhibiting the synthesis of inflammatory mediators, such as prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), IL-6, TNF-α and IL-8, in epidermal keratinocytes through the modulation of pro-inflammatory signalling pathways NF-κB and MAPK.
| References | Formulation | Experimentation Time |
|---|---|---|
| BERGE B. S. & et al. (2005) | 5% of niacinamide | Twice a day for 12 weeks |
| OBLONG J. E. & et al. (2020) | 5% of niacinamide | 2 weeks |
Improving the skin barrier function: Nicotinamide can also enhance the structural and functional integrity of the stratum corneum, and reduce transepidermal water loss. Indeed, research shows that niacinamide can increase the synthesis of key components of the lipid barrier, such as ceramides, other fractions of sphingolipids (glucosylceramide and sphingomyelin), free fatty acids and cholesterol.
| References | Formulation | Experimentation Time |
|---|---|---|
| INOUE S. & et al. (2000) | 2% of niacinamide in 0.1% of Polyoxyethylene Sorbitan Monolaurate | Twice a week for 4 weeks |
| BERGE C. & et al. (2005) | Moisturising cream containing 2% nicotinamide | Twice a week for 4 weeks |
Attenuating skin ageing: The niacinamide stimulates the synthesis of collagen and that of epidermal proteins (keratin, filaggrin and involucrin), and reduces the activity of metalloproteinases and elastase in dermal fibroblasts, enzymes that degrade collagen and elastin fibres. It thus helps to increase skin elasticity and to reverse signs of ageing, such as wrinkles. Nicotinamide being a precursor of the antioxidant NADPH, it also has anti-glycation effects, thus preventing the dull complexion of ageing skin.
| References | Formulation | Experimentation Time |
|---|---|---|
| BERGE C. A. & et al. (2004) | Moisturising product with 5% niacinamide | Twice a day for 12 weeks |
| BERGE B. S. & et al. (2005) | Moisturising product with 5% niacinamide | Twice a day for 12 weeks |
| CHIU H. C. & al (2007) | Aqueous serum with 4% niacinamide | Twice a day for 12 weeks |
| DATE A. & et al. (2008) | 4% Niacinamide Lotion | 8 weeks |
Reducing acne lesions: Thanks to its potential anti-inflammatory, sebostatic and antibacterial role, the nicotinamide would play a part in the topical formulation of anti-acne treatments. It would cause the regression of retentional lesions (blackheads, microcysts) and inflammatory lesions (papules, pustules).
| References | Severity of Acne | Formulation | Experimentation Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| CHALKER D. K. & et al. (1995) | Moderate, Inflammatory | 4% Niacinamide Gel | Twice a day for 8 weeks |
| GIRARD F. & et al. (2004) | Moderate, Inflammatory | 4% Niacinamide Gel | Twice a day for 8 weeks |
| ÖNDER M. & al (2008) | Light to moderate | 4% Niacinamide Gel | 8 weeks |
| GHORBAINI A. & et al. (2013) | Light to moderate | 5% Niacinamide Gel | Twice a day for 8 weeks |
| KARIMI E. R. & et al. (2013) | Moderate, Inflammatory | 4% Niacinamide Gel | Twice a day for 8 weeks |
Reducing the appearance of hyperpigmented spots: Researchers have discovered that niacinamide has the ability to halt the transfer of melanin, which is responsible for skin browning, from the melanocytes located at the base of the epidermis to the neighbouring epidermal skin cells (keratinocytes). Thus, niacinamide helps to decrease hyperpigmentation and gradually lighten the skin after prolonged use.
| Références | Type d'hyperpigmentation | Formulation | Temps d'expérimentation |
|---|---|---|---|
| BOISSY R. E. & al (2002) | Plusieurs types d'hyperpigmentation (lentigos solaires légères à modérées, mélasma ou taches de rousseur) | Crème hydratante à base de 5% de niacinamide | 2 fois par semaine pendant 8 semaines |
| BOISSY R. E. & al (2002) | Plusieurs types d'hyperpigmentation (lentigos solaires légères à modérées, mélasma ou taches de rousseur) | Crème solaire hydratante contenant 2% de nicotinamide | 2 fois par semaine pendant 8 semaines |
| BERGE C. A. & al (2004) | Taches solaires | 5% de niacinamide | 2 fois par semaine pendant 12 semaines |
| BERGE B. S. & al (2005) | Taches solaires | 5% de niacinamide | 2 fois par semaine pendant 12 semaines |
| WICKETT R. R. & al. (2005) | Plusieurs types d'hyperpigmentation (lentigos solaires légères à modérées, mélasma ou taches de rousseur) | Crème hydratante avec 5% de nicotinamide | 2 fois par semaine pendant 8 semaines |
| MONCADA B. & al (2011) | Mélasma | Crème hydratante avec 4% de niacinamide (+ écran solaire à large spectre FPS 50+) | 8 semaines (+ écran solaire toutes les 3 heures pendant la journée) |
| TORRES-ALVAREZ B. & al (2013) | Aisselles hyperpigmentées (hyperpigmentation axillaire) | Émulsion à 4% de niacinamide | 1 fois par jour (soir) pendant 9 semaines |
What do usage tests say about our niacinamide skincare products?
Our usage tests are based on a consumer self-assessment over 4 to 6 weeks during which the participants used one of our niacinamide treatments. Our unifying serum has been tested to provide a visibly more even complexion in 4 weeks of application. It contains 12% niacinamide to help achieve a smoother and clearer skin texture.
With a formulation based on niacinamide, caffeine and cornflower hydrosol, thetinted under-eye concealer works in two ways by instantly covering the pigmentation of dark circles, while minimising their appearance over time. After 28 days of use, panellists find that their eye contour is more hydrated and even, with less visible dark circles and bags.
Primarily composed of 5% caffeine, 5% niacinamide, and 2% Albizia Julibrissin extract, the eye serum targets dark circles and puffiness around the eye contour. The serum's light texture penetrates quickly, leaving the eye contour area more hydrated and providing a soothing effect to the skin after daily use for 42 days.
Sources
CHALKER D. K. & al. Topical nicotinamide compared with clindamycin gel in the treatment of inflammatory acne vulgaris. International Journal of Dermatology (1995).
INOUE S. & co. Nicotinamide enhances the biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. British Journal of Dermatology (2000).
BOISSY R. E. & al. The impact of niacinamide on diminishing skin pigmentation and inhibiting the transfer of melanosomes. British Journal of Dermatology (2002).
BERGE C. A. & al. Topical niacinamide diminishes yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in ageing facial skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2004).
GIRARD F. & al. Double-blind clinical evaluation of the effectiveness of a 4% nicotinamide gel (Exfoliac® NC Gel) compared to a 4% erythromycin gel in the treatment of moderate acne with a predominant inflammatory component. The New Dermatological (2004).
BERGE B. S. & co. Niacinamide: A B vitamin that enhances the appearance of ageing facial skin. American Society for Dermatologic Surgery (2005).
BERGE C. & al. A facial moisturizer containing Niacinamide enhances skin barrier and provides benefits to individuals with rosacea. Cutis (2005).
WICKETT R. R. & al. Effective suppression of melanosome transfer to keratinocytes through the use of lectins and niacinamide is reversible. Experimental Dermatology (2005).
CHIU H. C. & others. The clinical anti-ageing effects of topical kinetin and niacinamide in Asians: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face comparative trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2007).
DATE A. & et al. Assessment of anti-wrinkle properties of a new cosmetic product containing niacinamide. Journal of Dermatology (2008).
ÖNDER M. & al. An investigation into the effectiveness of topical niacinamide in the treatment of mild and moderate acne vulgaris. Journal Of The Turkish Academy Of Dermatology (2008).
MONCADA B. & al. A double-blind, randomized clinical trial of niacinamide 4% versus hydroquinone 4% in the treatment of melasma. Dermatology Research and Practice (2011).
GHORBAINI A. & al. Comparison of topical 5% nicotinamide gel versus 2% clindamycin gel in the treatment of mild-moderate acne vulgaris: A double-blinded randomised clinical trial. Journal of Research in Medical Sciences (2013).
KARIMI E. R. & al. Topical 4% nicotinamide vs. 1% clindamycin in moderate inflammatory acne vulgaris. International Journal of Dermatology (2013).
TORRES-ALVAREZ B. & al. Topical application of 4% niacinamide and 0.05% desonide for the treatment of axillary hyperpigmentation: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2013).
OBLONG J. E. & others. Niacinamide alleviates SASP-related inflammation triggered by environmental stressors in human epidermal keratinocytes and skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2020).
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