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Squalane, a beneficial ingredient for all skin types?
Summary
- Squalane, in brief
- Squalane, the ideal active ingredient for dry and normal skin types
- Squalane, an active ingredient incompatible with oily skin and not highly recommended for combination skin
Published January 17, 2023,
updated on February 20, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
5 min read
Squalane, in brief.
The squalane is derived from the hydrogenation of squalene, a natural component found in human sebum, accounting for approximately 15%. Due to this characteristic, squalane is particularly well absorbed by the skin and hair fibres. It also exhibits complete harmlessness and can be added to a cosmetic formula up to a maximum concentration of 100% without any contraindications.
Originally, squalane is extracted from the livers of sharks, hence its name. This extraction process is increasingly regulated, but unfortunately, a large proportion of this active ingredient on the international market still comes from animal sources.At Typology, we only use plant-derived squalane.
Thevegetable squalane began to be used as a replacement for animal-derived squalane from the1980s. It is recovered from squalene derived from olive oil residues, sugarcane, rice, wheat, sugar beet, palm oil, or amaranth.
Squalane, the ideal active ingredient for dry and normal skin types.
Adry skin is characterised by an alteration in cellular cohesion, a deficiency in natural moisturising factors (NMF) and a deficiency in the production of fatty substances. This lack of hydrolipidic film exposes the epidermis to external aggressions and causes a loss of water. It is identified by feelings of tightness, a tight skin texture, sensations of discomfort, a "crocodile skin" effect, flaking, tingling, a lack of suppleness, redness, irritations, cracking, a dull appearance, and a thin and rough skin.
How does squalane act on dry skin?
Squalane is a non-greasy oil with a dry touch that quickly penetrates the epidermis.Itis often referred to as anactive emollient. Not only does it soften the skin, but it also prevents the epidermis from dehydrating.Its biomimetic structure with thesebumhelps to repair the hydrolipidic film, thus strengthening the skin's barrier function and preventing the body's water from evaporating. The skin remains hydrated for longer and the feelings of tightness associated with dry skin are reduced.
Furthermore, squalene is a component of sebum, the natural production of which by skin cells tends to decrease around the age of 30. This decline contributes to increased dehydration and the skin showing more "signs" of ageing. Therefore, a daily intake of squalane helps to combat this inevitable loss and slows down the skin dehydration process that intensifies over the years.
Squalane, an active ingredient incompatible with oily skin and not highly recommended for combination skin.
According to the literature, squalane is minimally comedogenic. It has a comedogenicity index equal to 1. To clarify, a substance is termed "comedogenic" when it clogs pores leading to the formation of comedones (blackheads, whiteheads). The comedogenicity of a component is evaluated on a scale from 0 to 5.
Nevertheless, even though squalane is non-comedogenic, we do not recommend it for combination, acne-prone, oily and/or blemish-prone skin. It is instead advised for taking care ofdry and dehydrated skin.
For combination to oily skin types, contrary to popular belief, certain plant oils can be good allies in restoring their balance, but squalane is not one of them. It is important to favour gentle, non-comedogenic plant oils with a penetrating texture that have purifying, healing and regulating properties.We thus recommend the following plant oils for oily skin: argan, hemp, baobab, jojoba, camellia, hazelnut, prickly pear, carrot or sunflower.
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