Squalane, an active ingredient for all skin types?

The dry skin is characterised by a disruption of epidermal cell cohesion, a deficiency in natural moisturising factors (NMFs) and inadequate lipid production. These various elements weaken the skin barrier and increase transepidermal water loss. The skin thus becomes more susceptible to external aggressors. Dry skin manifests as sensations of tightness, a rough or taut texture, a lack of suppleness, scaling, fine cracks and an overall feeling of discomfort.

How does squalane affect dry skin?

Squalane is an active ingredient particularly suited to dry skin thanks to its ability to strengthen the hydrolipidic film and to limit transepidermal water loss. Derived from the hydrogenation of squalene naturally present in human sebum, it exhibits excellent biocompatibility and penetrates the skin with ease. Nourishing and emollient, it helps restore skin suppleness, soften rough patches and soothe sensations of tightness.

A recent study assessed the effects of an emollient containing squalane, ceramides and 5% urea on the skin barrier of elderly individuals suffering from xerosis, a severe form of dryness. Twenty-one volunteers over the age of 60 applied the cream to one forearm for 28 days, with the other forearm serving as a control. Measurements taken before and after the protocol revealed a significant improvement in skin parameters compared with the untreated side.

These results demonstrate that squalane, incorporated into an emollient formulation, actively contributes to the restoration of the skin barrier in dry skin.

A normal skin is characterised by a good balance between water and lipids. It has a healthy skin barrier, sufficient sebum production to protect the skin without blocking its pores and a smooth, supple texture. Its slightly acidic pH (around 5.5) maintains the skin microbiota in balance, while transepidermal water loss remains stable. This skin type is generally comfortable, even and unlikely to be sensitive, although it can become temporarily dry or dull under stress, climatic changes or inappropriate care.

How does squalane act on normal skin?

For normal skin, squalane acts as a maintenance agent rather than a corrective one. It is perfectly suited to such skin and integrates seamlessly into the hydrolipidic film to help preserve its balance without weighing the skin down. Squalane helps strengthen the barrier function of normal skin which, even when healthy, benefits from this extra support, particularly during the winter. In short, squalane helps prevent dehydration, maintain skin comfort and support the hydration mechanisms of already balanced skin.

The combination to oily skin is characterised by increased sebum production, often concentrated in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin), while the cheeks may remain normal or even slightly dry. This hyperseborrhoea is sometimes accompanied by pore dilation, a shiny appearance and frequent blemishes.

The difference between a combination skin and oily skin lies in sebum distribution: oily skin exhibits excessive production across the entire face, whereas combination skin manifests it only in the T-zone.

How does squalane act on combination-to-oily skin?

Although the squalane exhibits an oily texture comparable to that of vegetable oils, it is in fact non-occlusive and highly biocompatible. Its saturated structure, that is to say devoid of double bonds, unlike that of squalene, renders it insensitive to oxidation: it therefore does not form comedogenic peroxides capable of blocking pores or triggering inflammation. Studies have thus confirmed that squalane does not induce comedo formation, even after UV exposure, unlike oxidised squalene. Although no specific clinical trial has yet evaluated its direct effect on oily skin, squalane is regarded as an ingredient suitable for combination-to-oily skin types.

The sensitive skin is characterised by an exaggerated reactivity to stimuli external ones, such as temperature fluctuations, friction or even certain active ingredients. This hypersensitivity is partly due to an impairment of the skin barrier, which allows irritants to penetrate more easily, but also by an overactivity of the cutaneous immune system. Immune cells, notably keratinocytes and mast cells, release inflammatory mediators, such as cytokines, more rapidly in response to stress, causing sensations of tingling, burning or tightness. This chronic inflammatory environment contributes to the maintenance of sensitivity and to a reduced tolerance to cosmetic products.

How does squalane affect sensitive skin?

The squalane is particularly well suited to sensitive skin, owing to its biocompatibility and excellent tolerance. Irritation from squalane is extremely rare, with no cases reported in the scientific literature. Furthermore, this ingredient’s ability to strengthen the skin barrier is beneficial in helping sensitive skin better withstand external stressors. By restoring a stable hydrolipidic film, it contributes to soothing discomfort and reducing hypersensitivity reactions.

Note : Every skin is unique: even the gentlest ingredients may not suit everyone. It is therefore recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product, whether it contains squalane or not, by applying a small amount to the crook of the elbow or wrist and waiting 48 hours.

• MOTOYOSHI K. Enhanced comedo formation in rabbit ear skin by squalene and oleic acid peroxides. British Journal of Dermatology (1983).

• KARADENIZ F. & al. Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research (2012).

• CORK M. J. & al. The effect of an emollient containing urea, ceramide NP, and lactate on skin barrier structure and function in older people with dry skin. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2016).

• Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Safety assessment of squalane and squalene as used in cosmetics. Cosmetic Ingredient Review (2019).

• TADINI G. & al. Basic emollients for xerosis cutis not associated with atopic dermatitis: A review of clinical studies. International Journal of Dermatology (2025).