Why is squalane controversial?

The Japanese chemist Mitsumaru Tsujimoto first isolatedsqualene in 1916 from shark liver oil, hence the name he attributed to it. Squalene makes up to 96% of the oil found in shark livers. Following this, for stability against oxidation, squalene was hydrogenated into squalane. Resistant to extreme temperatures and pressures, squalane was initially used as a lubricant in the aeronautics sector. Then, around the 1950s, it made its appearance in skin and hair care, due to its harmlessness and emollient virtues.

According to a study conducted in 2012, 3 million sharks were killed each year to meet the international demand for squalane. The cosmetics industry remains the primary user of animal-derived squalane even today. Although sharks are listed on the red list of endangered species and their capture is prohibited by the European Union, they are still hunted in other parts of the world and some cosmetic products still contain animal-derived squalane. This massacre and environmental tragedy are, however, unnecessary as it has been possible for several years to obtain squalane from plant sources (sugar cane, olive, wheat, palm). There is no difference between these two compounds. They provide the same benefits and promise the same results. However, due to economic reasons, plant-derived squalane is more expensive than animal-derived squalane, which is why the latter is still widely present in skincare products. Sometimes, a mixture of plant and animal-derived squalane is observed in the same formula.

Note: On the I.N.C.I. list of skincare ingredients, the origin of raw materials is not indicated. Thus, both plant and animal-derived squalane are referred to under the name "SQUALANE".

The squalane present in our formulas is derived from an extraction from the unsaponifiable fraction of olive oil or from sugarcane. We have developed several galenic formulations containing this multifunctional ingredient. For the face and body, the following treatments are enriched with squalane:

• The regenerating facial scrub : It gently exfoliates and unclogs the pores. The gel transforms into an exfoliating oil under the effect of massage, then into a milk upon contact with water. Containing essential oils, it should not be used by pregnant women.

• Thehydrating botanical blend with papyrus: It helps to restore skin hydration and promote cellular regeneration.

• The nourishing body cream : It restores the skin's lipid barrier, reduces feelings of tightness and protects the skin from external aggressions.

• The nourishing face cream formulated with hyaluronic acid and shea butter is a treatment enriched with lipid-replenishing and moisturising active ingredients to restore skin suppleness and reduce feelings of tightness.

• The nourishing serum squalane 100% is a treatment recommended for dry skin, with the aim of reducing feelings of tightness and diminishing dehydration fine lines.

For hair, the following oils contain squalane, always of plant origin:

• Thedry hair oil containing acai and hibiscus oil strengthens, nourishes and protects the hair fibre without weighing down the hair. It restores shine and softness to the hair.

• Therich hair oil with pequi and argan oil nourishes and restructures the hair fibre to protect it from heat. The hair becomes soft, shiny and manageable.

• DUCOS L. & al. Sharks in our beauty creams: An exclusive study by Bloom (2015).