Anti-blackhead patches: good or bad idea?

Blackheads are the result of an overproduction of sebum by the sebaceous glands. Several causes can be at the root of this hyperseborrhea , among which hormonal changes, pollution or sun exposure. This excess sebum is responsible for the blockage of the skin's pores and interferes with its natural desquamation, the process by which the skin eliminates its dead cells.

The build-up of corneocytes leads to a hyperkeratosis, that is, an abnormal thickening of the outer layers of the skin. This phenomenon results in the formation of "plugs" that block the sebaceous glands and prevent the natural flow of sebum to the skin's surface, thereby causing the appearance of open comedones. When in contact with air, the accumulation of sebaceous material oxidises and turns black.

In order to combat blackheads, patches have been developed. They come in the form of strips that act like "adhesives" to remove or even pull out comedones. These patches are generally formulated with purifying and unclogging active ingredients such as charcoal, thetea tree oil and salicylic acid. There are patches of various shapes, adapting to the morphology of the nose, forehead or chin in particular. These areas are not targeted randomly: they have more sebaceous glands than the rest of the face. They are thus more prone to hyperseborrhea and the appearance of imperfections.

How are anti-blackhead patches used?

An anti-blackhead patch should be used on a clean and damp skin. Gently wash your face beforehand and rinse it with warm water. You then simply apply the patch to the area of the face affected by blackheads, usually the forehead, nose and chin. It is important that the area has been wetted beforehand to promote the adhesion of the patch. It should then be left to work for 10 to 15 minutes. The patch, initially flexible, hardens and "fixes" onto the skin. It can then be peeled off. You can then observe that the blackheads are attached to the strip and that the skin of the face is clear.

For your information : a common mistake is to confuse sebaceous filaments with blackheads, and to use a blackhead patch to remove sebaceous filaments. However, it is crucial to distinguish between them. The sebaceous filament is a natural structure around hair follicles, whereas a blackhead is a skin disorder resulting from the blockage of pores by the formation of an accumulation of oxidised sebum and dead cells. The purpose of sebaceous filaments is to help channel the flow of sebum from the sebaceous gland to the skin's surface. They should not be removed, as this risks inflaming the area and promoting bacterial proliferation within the pore.

Blackhead removal patches are highly praised for their ability to quickly eliminate these blemishes. Non-painful and easy to use, this alternative appears to be a convenient way to remove blackheads and provides a satisfactory result in just about ten minutes. Even though no scientific study has been conducted on this subject, the use of blackhead removal patches presents several issues.

• Blackhead patches tend to irritate the skin.

  The removal of a blackhead patch should be done with a swift and sharp motion, in order to separate the adhesive from the skin, which can damage and irritate the latter. The sebaceous glands may feel attacked and increase their sebum production in response, which can promote the appearance of new blackheads.

  It should be noted that it is strongly advised against using a blackhead patch more than once a week, and their use is contraindicated for sensitive or reactive skin types. Resorting to a blackhead patch too often can cause severe skin peeling and damage.

• The action of blackhead patches is superficial.

These patches only act on the visible part of the comedone and not in depth. After applying the patch, only the black part of the blackhead is removed and the pore is not completely unclogged. Thus, we generally observe the reappearance of blackheads in the same places a few days after using a patch. For a lasting result, the topical use of exfoliating and purifying actives is recommended.

Blackheads often reappear after using a patch, so it is recommended to prevent their occurrence and consider the problem as a whole. Below are some basic daily actions to perform. However, it is important to understand that, while this skincare routine can limit the emergence of blemishes, it is not a miracle solution to combat pre-existing blackheads. These are very slow to eliminate, with results potentially appearing after several weeks or even months.

• Cleanse and sanitise.

  Achieving clear skin begins primarily with a morning and evening cleanse, using a cleansing product suitable for your skin type. If you have combination to oily skin, use a gel containing sebum-regulating active ingredients, such as zinc or azelaic acid. For instance, you could use our purifying cleansing gel, which helps to sanitise the skin and rebalance sebum production to limit the formation of blemishes.

• Remove makeup and cleanse.

  It is essential to remove all traces of makeup in the evening to cleanse the epidermis, and to restore clean and clear skin. This also helps to eliminate traces of pollution or dirt accumulated on the face throughout the day. For this purpose, we recommend our makeup removing oil, whose minimalist formula with 7 ingredients is suitable for sensitive skin.

• Regularly exfoliate.

  To prevent the appearance of blackheads, it is also recommended to exfoliate once or twice a week your skin to unclog pores and remove dead cells. Beyond one or two weekly scrubs, the skin can become irritated and produce excess sebum, which can clog pores and lead to the emergence of new blackheads. For this purpose, you can apply our peeling mask, enriched with exfoliating agents that help limit the development of comedones and refine the skin's texture.

• Purify and mattify.

  In order to reduce blemishes, you can supplement this routine by applying treatments containing sebum-regulating and astringent active ingredients. At Typology, we have formulated for oily-prone skin a matifying serum with 10% of azelaic acid and a purifying face cream with zinc PCA. These treatments work by regulating sebum production to thus reduce the formation of open comedones.

• Do not touch the blackheads.

  Even though it may be tempting, attempting to touch and dislodge blackheads yourself is a bad idea. By doing so, you risk exacerbating their condition by infecting them with the germs present on your fingers and nails, which could lead to further infection and the formation of an acne spot. You could also cause irreversible damage to your skin, resulting in scarring. If you are absolutely determined to remove them, make an appointment with a dermatologist or a healthcare professional who can remove them without irritating the skin.

• LIU Y. & al. Complementary therapies for acne vulgaris. The Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews (2015).

• NOWIWCKA D. & al. Microbiome and probiotics in acne vulgaris - a narrative review. Life (2022).