PHAs for acne-prone skin.

Acne is a chronic inflammatory disease that presents itself through the emergence of spots on the face and/or body. The causes of acne are multifactorial: genetic, hormonal, stress, the use of certain medications... It generally affects teenagers but also adults.

In the case of acne, an overproduction of sebum (referred to as hyperseborrhea) is observed at the level of the pilosebaceous follicles. The sebum clogs the pores, which are the openings of the sebaceous glands on the skin's surface. This fat-rich environment will be conducive to the proliferation of the bacteria responsible for acne, Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) which primarily feeds on sebum. This bacteria secretes pro-inflammatory substances that cause inflammation and the formation of spots. When acne spots disappear, they can leave a mark or a scar on the skin.

The P.H.A.s (Polyhydroxy Acids) are part of the hydroxy acid family along with A.H.A.s (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and B.H.A.s (Beta Hydroxy Acids). Considered as the new generation of A.H.A.s, they are renowned for their keratolytic effects, meaning they eliminate dead cells (a process known as desquamation), which boosts cell renewal and restores radiance to the skin. Moreover, this desquamation allows for deep pore cleansing, thus limiting the appearance of imperfections.

They also possessmoisturising properties and humectants.This is due to the numerous hydroxyl functions (OH-) they contain at the level of their chemical structures. These capture water molecules and prevent transepidermal dehydration, thus strengthening the skin barrier.

Unlike A.H.A. and B.H.A., P.H.A. are suitable for all skin types, even those that are sensitive. Indeed, due to their high molecular weights, they remain on the surface of the epidermis. This explains their good skin tolerance compared to other acids which penetrate more deeply into the epidermis.

There are numerous PHAs, but the following are often used in cosmetic formulations:

• The gluconolactone :This is a P.H.A. naturally present in skin cells. This antioxidant effectively combats free radicals.

• Lactobionic Acid: This is a derivative of lactose that has a moisturising and soothing effect.

Upon contact with the skin, P.H.A.s will have a keratolytic action by eliminating dead cells on the skin's surface and unclogging the pores. This allows the sebum to distribute more evenly across the skin surface. Consequently, Cutibacterium acnes will proliferate less, which will reduce the occurrence of spots.

Furthermore, P.H.A.s have moisturising and humectant properties. Contrary to what one might think, skin hydration is crucial even in the case of acne. It helps to prevent transepidermal dehydration and restore the skin barrier, in order to protect the skin from external aggressions and soothe the skin.

Thus, the use of P.H.A.s for acne-prone skin is interesting as they act against blemishes gently, while respecting the skin barrier.

Cleansing helps to rid the skin of its impurities and combat excess sebum. Before going to bed, opt for double cleansing.

Firstly, cleanse your skin to remove makeup, sunscreen, as well as excess sebum. We offer two types of cleansers:

• The7-ingredient micellar water : Its minimalist, fragrance-free formula
  is suitable for sensitive skin. It removes makeup while hydrating the skin.

• The7-ingredient cleansing oil : Enriched with vegetable oils ofsweet almond and sunflower, it allows for skin cleansing while nourishing and soothing it.

Subsequently, cleanse your skin with a water-based solution. With the skin now free of makeup, the cleanser can thoroughly clean it. In the case of acne-prone skin, opt for our exfoliating cleansing gel. Formulated with gluconolactone, this cleanser provides gentle micro-chemical exfoliation. It unclogs pores and promotes skin hydration. It also contains aloe vera gel which hydrates and soothes the skin , as well as inulin which rebalances the skin microbiota . The sweet orange essential oil it contains has antibacterial properties ideal for combating spots.

Once or twice a week, consider exfoliating your skin to remove dead cells. This will help to deeply unclog pores, thus limiting the appearance of blemishes. Our peeling mask provides a gentle exfoliation. It removes dead cells and unclogs pores thanks to its exfoliating complex (4 A.H.A. and 1 P.H.A.). Applying this concentrated gel mask helps to reduce blemishes and refine skin texture.

However, as acne is a skin condition, these good practices do not replace a consultation with a dermatologist. The latter will prescribe a treatment suitable for your type of acne.

• BARNETSON R. & al. A comparative study of gluconolactone versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acne. Australasian Journal of Dermatology (1992).

• VAN SCOTT E. J. & al. Clinical and cosmeceutical applications of hydroxyacids. Clinics in Dermatology (2009).

• GARNER S. & al. Acne vulgaris. The Lancet (2012).