Opinions on the peeling mask

The term 'peeling' refers to the act of peeling. In fact, it is aboutexfoliating the superficial layer of the epidermis to promote cellular renewal.

Peeling differs from scrubbing in its mode of action. Scrubbing is a mechanical exfoliation that removes dead cells from the epidermis through friction. Peeling, on the other hand, is a chemical exfoliation that eliminates keratinocytes by breaking the ionic bonds, thereby destabilising the stratum corneum and causing its gradual detachment.

Generally, a chemical peel involves substances known as AHA (alpha hydroxy acid), BHA (beta hydroxy acid) or PHA (poly hydroxy acid).

• The most common AHAs areglycolic acid andlactic acid. Glycolic acid, being smaller in size than lactic acid, penetrates deeper into the epidermis, hence its greater potential for irritation. For this reason, chemical peels based on lactic acid are generally recommended for the most sensitive skin types.

• The most common BHA in cosmetics is thesalicylic acid. Its antibacterial properties make it an active ingredient of choice for the chemical exfoliation of combination to oily skin with blemishes.

• With a larger molecular size than A.H.A. and B.H.A., P.H.A. penetrate less deeply into the epidermis and are more suitable for atopic skin and/or skin with cutaneous conditions. The three main P.H.A. used in cosmetics are the gluconolactone, an antioxidant that effectively combats inflammation; the galactose, which stimulates collagen production and the lactobionic acid known for its moisturising properties.

There are various types of peels: mild, medium, and deep.

Gentle peeling can be carried out directly at home, with certain treatments available on the beauty market offering this type of exfoliation. A gentle peel often aims to restore radiance to the complexion, tighten pores and/or eliminate imperfections.

The medium peel aims to eliminate fine lines and blemishes on the skin. This type of peel is performed in a clinic, it is carried out by qualified individuals.

Deep peeling requires a high concentration of acid and can only be performed in specialised centres. The acid used will penetrate deeply and visibly reduce wrinkles and fine lines to rejuvenate the skin. However, there is a risk of oedema and depigmentation formation. Moreover, it takes about 6 months to see the final result, as the skin takes time to fully regenerate.

This treatment is an exfoliating gel that unclogs pores, renews the skin, and brightens the complexion. It provides the epidermis with a triple exfoliation:

• Chemical, with the P.H.A. (I.N.C.I.: gluconolactone) ;

• Enzymatic, due to the presence ofred fruit acids (blackberry, blackcurrant and raspberry);

• Mechanical because it contains cranberry powder, micro-grains that gently exfoliate and provide antioxidant benefits to the skin.

Suitable for all skin types, it is particularly beneficial for dull skin, those lacking radiance, as well as for skin prone to surface irregularities (rough skin, enlarged pores, blackheads).