Is mascara harmful?

When one applies mascara to the eyelashes, through a phenomenon of " migration ", it takes 5 to 10 minutes before it penetrates into the eye, due to sweating and eyelid blinking.

The consequences are correlated with the ingredients present in the formulas.If some are recognised ocular irritants, repeated infiltration of your mascara into the eyes can cause burning sensations, irritations or redness of the conjunctivitis or blepharitis type.

The European regulation concerning cosmetic products requires that any treatment intended for the eyes or their surrounding areas must be pre-tested on these sensitive zones, in order to minimise the risks of ocular irritation as much as possible.

To avoid any inconvenience, certain compounds should be set aside when choosing a mascara.

• Synthetic polymers are frequently incorporated into mascara formulas due to their film-forming properties. However, some of them, such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), are suspected carcinogens.

• To prevent the growth and colonisation of bacteria, synthetic preservatives are often added to mascara formulas. For instance, one might find phenoxyethanol. This compound cancause skin allergies, neurological disorders, as well as effects on reproduction. Furthermore, the National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products attributes side effects such asmoderate to severe eye irritationto this preservative. Given these factors, it is advisable not to opt for a mascara that contains phenoxyethanol. Moreover, some mascaras contain parabens, which are recognised as endocrine disruptors (= substances that disturb hormonal balance). Therefore, avoid choosing a mascara that lists Butylparaben or Propylparaben in its INCI list.

• The BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) and the BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene) can be found in mascaras for their antioxidant properties. Indeed, these substances help to prevent oxidation and rancidity. However, these two substances are suspected to be endocrine disruptors. In simple terms, endocrine disruptors are molecules capable of deregulating the hormonal system. Moreover, the A.R.T.A.C. (French Association for Anti-Cancer Therapeutic Research) classifies them among the potentially carcinogenic substances. Finally, both molecules are also known to be sensitising, thus being a source of allergies.

• Silicones are sometimes found in mascaras. Although not all silicones have harmful effects on health and some are completely safe to use, cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and cyclopentasiloxane (D5) are bothsuspected to be endocrine disruptors

• Some mascaras contain sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), also known as sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) or sodium dodecyl sulphate (SDS) to act as a surfactant. However, this compound damages the proteins of the membranes of skin and eye cells, leading to irritations and redness. SLS is also identified as a pollutant to the environment, animals, aquatic environments, and plants. REACH (European Regulation to secure the manufacture and use of chemical substances) classifies this substance as ecotoxic.