How to take care of wrinkles around the mouth?

Perioral wrinkles (around the mouth) are primarily expression lines and are the first to appear, from the age of 25 - 30 years, and gradually intensify with the ageing of tissues around 45 - 50 years. They are caused by the contraction of facial muscles (approximately 10,000 contractions per day for 43 facial muscles). These repeated movements mean that wrinkles gradually deepen and become more visible. The mouth is affected by various types of wrinkles:

• The sun pleats or barcode wrinkles: these are vertical or oblique wrinkles around the upper lip contour, under the nose. These are particularly pronounced in smokers;

• The bitterness folds or marionette lines: these are oblique wrinkles located at the corners of the mouth that tend to pull downwards (towards the jaw), giving the impression of an inverted smile;

• The nasolabial folds or smile lines: these are linear grooves that run from the wings of the nose to the corners of the mouth.

The primary cause of wrinkles around the lips is our expressions, more specifically due to repeated facial movements. Over the years, dynamic wrinkles that shape smiles and grimaces deepen and become permanent: they then transform into static wrinkles. This phenomenon is explained by the evolution of skin tissue with age, particularly due to the loss of volume and sagging of the epidermis, which significantly contribute to the appearance of wrinkles, depending on the following factors:

• Disorganisation and decrease in the quantity of structural proteins (collagen and elastin), resulting in a loss of tone and firmness;

• Reduction in hyaluronic acid content of the dermis and epidermis;

• Loss of lipids in the subcutaneous adipose tissue (hypodermis), which shapes the volumes of the face;

• Reduction of bone volume in the jaw.

Similar to most other wrinkles, those around the mouth are also caused by certain intrinsic and extrinsic factors, such as the smoking, the genetics or even the prolonged exposure to the sun, which can influence the speed of wrinkle formation around the mouth.

Adopting certain practices and appropriate care can help anticipate the appearance of wrinkles, particularly by influencing their intensity:

• Protect yourself from the harmful effects of UV rays. Indeed, these accelerate skin ageing and therefore the premature appearance of wrinkles. Make it a habit to apply a sun care product for the face when you expose yourself to the sun. Also apply a lip balm with sun protection to shield against UVA and UVB rays;

• Apply a specific treatment morning and evening. As we age, cellular renewal slows down, sebaceous glands become less active, and the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid gradually decreases... Therefore, applying a suitable treatment morning and evening can help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and make the skin more toned and supple. To do this,favour a product containing one of these active ingredients for application in the morning and/or evening: hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, peptides, ferulic acid or retinol, known for boosting cellular reproduction and stimulating the production of collagen and elastin. Morning application will help to strengthen the hydrolipidic film that protects the skin against numerous external aggressions, while the application of products in the evening will help to repair the damage caused during the day and assist the skin in regenerating at the peak of cellular reproduction, which is between 1 and 3 in the morning.

• Apply a good moisturising base to your facial skin daily. Using a moisturising face cream morning and evening will help to strengthen the hydrolipidic film, thus acting as a shield against numerous external aggressions (sun, wind, cold, pollution, etc…), and retain water in the superficial layers of the skin, thereby preventing its evaporation. Indeed, a dehydrated skin tends to wrinkle more quickly. Opt for a moisturising treatment that contains both a humectant (hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, glycerine, urea, etc...) and an emollient (vegetable oil, vegetable butter, vegetable wax, squalane, ceramides, etc...). Above all, do not forget to apply it to the area between the lips and the nose;

• Consider performing a scrub once a week on the entire face, not forgetting the neck and lips. This practice involves removing dead cells accumulated on the skin's surface, stimulating blood circulation, and boosting cellular renewal. Take this opportunity to apply a hydrating mask for deep moisturisation;

• Practice facial gymnastics. Beyond a skincare routine, the daily practice of a series of exercises specifically designed for the face, requiring the contraction of facial muscles, would be beneficial for naturally firming the skin of the face and improving muscle strength;

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• YOSHII T. & al. New wrinkles on wrinkling: an 8-year longitudinal study on the progression of expression lines into persistent wrinkles. British Journal of Dermatology (2010).

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• GWAK G. T. & al. Effect of a facial muscle exercise device on facial rejuvenation. Aesthetic Surgery Journal (2018).

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• GEMPELER M. & al. Facial expression wrinkles and their relaxation by a synthetic peptide. International Journal of Peptide Research and Therapeutics (2021).