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Comment incorporer les rétinoïdes dans sa routine beauté ?

How to incorporate retinoids into your routine?

Retinoids are chemical compounds derived from the vitamin A. Their effects on wrinkles and skin sagging, as well as on acne and oily skin (+), make them versatile compounds present in multiple formulations. Retinoids are keratolytic agents that stimulate cell renewal. Potentially irritating, it is advisable to incorporate them gradually into your routine.

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What forms of retinoids are found in skincare treatments?

Three retinoids are available on the cosmetic market and do not require a prescription. They can limit early and/or mild acne but also fight against the appearance of ageing signs (wrinkles, fine lines, skin sagging). These are the following compounds:

  • Retinol, for mature and non-sensitive skin and/or acne-prone skin.

    The most popular retinoid in skincare, it is considered one of the most effective compounds to counteract the degradation of the skin's support fibres. It stimulates the production of collagen and elastin for smoother and more elastic skin. Moreover, retinol is recognised for its antioxidant properties that prevent premature ageing of skin cells. It also has an effect on the skin's melanin production, helping to reduce the appearance of brown spots that can appear with age.

    Generally recommended for mature skin, it is also a prime choice for oily and/or acne-prone skin. Its keratolytic action helps to eliminate dead cells present on the surface of the epidermis. The pores are unclogged and the skin texture is refined, thus preventing the appearance of blackheads and/or comedones.

    Note: Even though retinol is generally recommended for mature skin, as a preventative measure against wrinkles, it is still possible to use this active ingredient topically. However, it is advisable to start with a low percentage (0.1%). Thanks to itsantioxidantproperties, retinol will help young skin to combatoxidative stressgenerated by free radicals to prevent the onset of wrinkles. Let's remember that the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) recommends a maximum percentage of 0.3% of retinol in a non-rinse cosmetic formula and 0.05% in a body lotion.

  • Retinal, also recommended for mature, non-sensitive and/or acne-prone skin.

    From a chemical perspective, retinal is an intermediate metabolite between retinol and retinoic acid. In other words, when applied to the skin, retinol is oxidised into retinal and then metabolised into retinoic acid, its active form that can effectively combat photo-ageing of the skin. However, it is prohibited in cosmetics as it is too irritating.

    Thus, retinal is more directly converted into retinoic acid in the skin than retinol, which must first undergo oxidation. Retinal is relevant in skincare because to be active, its concentration can be lower than that of retinol. Indeed, retinal can have a smoothing and regenerating effect at concentrations ranging from 0.015% to 0.1%.

  • Retinoid esters, for initial wrinkles and/or mild acne as well as sensitive skin.

    These compounds are typically used due to their greater chemical stability compared to retinol or retinal, but also because they are the gentlest retinoids for the skin. The most common are retinyl acetate (INCI: Retinyl acetate), retinyl propionate (INCI: Retinyl propionate), retinyl palmitate (INCI: Retinyl palmitate) and retinyl linoleate (INCI: Retinyl linoleate). They are easily identifiable with the suffixes "ate". However, retinol esters are less effective on wrinkles and acne than retinol or retinal, as they must undergo more transformation in the skin before taking the form of retinoic acid. The esters are nevertheless relevant if one has a sensitive skin but still wishes to start incorporating retinoids into their beauty routine.

Incorporating retinoids into your beauty routine, a guide.

Retinoids easily integrate into a beauty routine. They are suitable for all skin types, but are particularly recommended for mature, oily or acne-prone skin. Their primary function is to combat the appearance of ageing signs on the skin and to regulate excess sebum. Thus, they are present in various types of skincare products:

  • Day and night creams;

  • Eye contours;

  • Serums;

  • Exfoliations.

However, caution is advised as retinol and retinal are active ingredients known for their irritating and drying effects, and are not recommended for sensitive and atopic skin. Below are some tips for using them effectively and avoiding any skin discomfort:

  • Incorporate them gradually into your skincare routine :

    If you wish to start a retinoid-based skincare routine, begin by using a product that contains a low percentage of this active ingredient, that is, around 0.1%. Initially, opt for a spaced-out application frequency, such as every third evening for a month, then every other evening for the following month, and then every evening. This usage pattern allows your skin time to adapt to this new molecule. Then, you can switch to a different retinoid product to increase the content of the chosen molecule to 0.2 or even 0.3% (the maximum retinol concentration allowed by the European cosmetic regulation in a non-rinse product). You can also apply your retinoid product daily, every evening before bedtime.

  • Only use them in the evening and apply a broad-spectrum sun protection the following morning :

    Species photosensitising, retinoids increase skin sensitivity during exposure to the sun's UV rays. For this reason, it is preferable to apply a treatment containing a retinoid in the evening, before going to bed. The following morning, do not forget to protect your skin with a broad-spectrum sunscreen.

  • Combine them with a moisturising treatment :

    Retinoids can be drying, especially for the most sensitive skin types, so combining them with a moisturising active ingredient such ashyaluronic acid in your skincare routine can be beneficial. For instance, we recommend applying the hyaluronic acid treatment before the retinol one, preferably in the evening. Apply a few drops of our plumping serum with hyaluronic acid, followed by a dab of firming cream with retinol, during your evening beauty routine, for plumped skin upon waking.

Note : In all cases, before using a skincare product containing a retinoid, we advise you to carry out a skin tolerance test. To do this, apply a few drops of the product in question to the inside of your arm, at the wrist or behind the ear and wait a few seconds. If you observe a significant reaction, do not use this product on your face. You can turn to a bakuchiol-based skincare product, which is an excellent active ingredient for combating skin ageing, generally less aggressive and therefore better tolerated than retinoids.

Which retinoid at Typology?

We have chosen to utilise a single type of retinoid, retinol, which we have introduced at various concentrations to benefit the maximum number of people.

  • To combat skin ageing and prevent skin sagging, the wrinkle & fine lines serum contains 0.3% retinol. It is formulated with 99% natural origin ingredients. It is particularly suitable for mature skin. We advise against its use on sensitive and reactive skin.

  • The neck and décolleté serum is composed of retinol (0.2%) and borage oil, known for its firming properties. This treatment smooths the skin of the neck and décolleté. It can also be used locally on other parts of the body.

  • Our firming face cream with 0.2% retinol and tsubaki oil is enriched with tightening agents to combat the appearance of wrinkles and make the skin more plump. It stimulates the production of collagen and elastin fibres to prevent signs of skin ageing.

  • The Firming Tonic Lotion contains 0.1% retinol and Damask rose extract. It is applied after skin cleansing, to rebalance the skin's pH and delay the appearance of wrinkles. It is composed of 99% natural origin ingredients.

  • The wrinkle and blemish serum combines the densifying action of retinol (0.3%) with the anti-bacterial action of bakuchiol (1%) to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and correct blemishes. Synthesised by endemic Australian plants, the plant polypeptides it contains are capable of working in synergy with retinol to promote the synthesis of type I collagen. They thus help to reduce the depth of wrinkles and densify the skin. These peptides also contribute to maintaining a thick epidermis, which plays its role as a shield against the external environment.

Sources:

  • Mukherjee S, et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: An overview of clinical efficacy and safety. (2006).

  • WANG L. H. Simultaneous determination of retinal, retinol and retinoic acid (all-trans and 13-cis) in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals at electrodeposited metal electrodes. Analytica Chimica Acta (2000).

  • QUAN. T. & al. Molecular basis of retinol anti-aging properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2016).

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