How can you quickly make a facial blemish disappear?

Applying cold or heat can temporarily relieve discomfort, and reduce inflammation and swelling. However, this will have no effect on the pimple itself.

• Ice: Wrap an ice cube in a cloth and apply it to the blemish for 5 to 10 minutes, several times a day.

• Warm compress: Soak a clean compress in warm water and apply it to the blemish for 10 to 15 minutes. Repeat the procedure three to four times a day.

The clay masks are often cited as another example. In addition to having the potential to absorb excess sebum from the skin, a study published in 2008 revealed that green clay may exhibit antibacterial properties. However, research remains scarce and further studies are necessary before we can confidently affirm its efficacy against spots.

Transparent and relatively thin, hydrocolloid gel–containing acne patches (a group of long-chain polymers), such as carboxymethylcellulose, gelatine or pectin, can be a good solution against pimples. They help to speed up healing by creating a moist environment. Likewise, they act by drawing out all the fluid from the pimple, which can help make it look less swollen and slightly smaller. Acne patches also prevent you from picking at the spot, as well as concealing the imperfection and protecting it from infection.

Hydrocolloid patches do not work on all types of pimples. They are especially effective on raised pimples (excluding closed comedones and cysts) or those with visible pus.

Although they can generally be worn overnight or for up to 24 hours, they do not make a spot disappear overnight. Current studies suggest that they must be used for several days (around six days) before any results become apparent. However, hydrocolloid patches are not the most effective treatment for acne pimples, as they do not kill bacteria. Moreover, if you use a patch, avoid applying topical acne products beneath it, since this not only reduces its adhesion but can also, in some cases, lead to irritation.

Whereas hydrocolloid gel patches typically contain no active ingredients, others may already be formulated with them (niacinamide, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, etc.). These are specifically included to combat spots by helping to reduce inflammation. More recently, another type of anti-spot patch has been developed: microneedle patches equipped with numerous fine, minute points that aid in enhancing the delivery of active ingredients into skin cells.

After gently cleansing your skin and applying an ice cube or warm compress to the blemish for a few minutes, you can then move on to using an over-the-counter spot treatment, which generally contains either 2.5% benzoyl peroxide or 2% salicylic acid, to help dry out the blemish. By following these steps before bedtime, the spot may look noticeably better by the next morning.

• Benzoyl peroxide: Whether in the form of a cream, gel or patch, the benzoyl peroxide is a widely used anti-acne ingredient that has been around for many years. It acts primarily by killing the bacteria responsible for blemishes, and unclogs pores by removing accumulated dead cells. Over-the-counter benzoyl peroxide products are available in concentrations ranging from 2.5% to 10%. However, it can have a drying and irritating effect on the skin. Therefore, start with a lower concentration, especially if you have sensitive skin, and gradually increase the dosage if you do not see results.

  In a study (n = 153), the effects of benzoyl peroxide gels at different concentrations (2.5%, 5% and 10%) were compared. After two weeks of topical application, it was observed that the 2.5% formulation was equivalent to the two other concentrations in reducing inflammatory lesions, with fewer adverse effects.

• Salicylic acid: Present in a number of over-the-counter products, another common ingredient issalicylic acid. Liposoluble, this β-hydroxy acid (BHA) is known for its keratolytic action promoting the removal of dead skin cells from clogged pores, its mild anti-inflammatory effect to reduce redness and swelling, its sebum-regulating properties to decrease sebum production, and its bacteriostatic properties to slow the growth and proliferation of bacteria such as Cutibacterium acnes, the microorganism responsible for the inflammatory reactions in acne. Only preparations containing 0.5 to 2% salicylic acid are recommended.

Regarded more as a short-term measure than a long-term solution, 1% topical hydrocortisone cream, a synthetic form of the hormone cortisol, can help to some extent with acne lesions by improving the appearance of inflammatory pimples. Indeed, it helps to calm the inflammation and reduce the swollen appearance of these blemishes.

With the adverse effects often associated with conventional treatments (irritation, skin dryness, burning sensation, etc.), some individuals seek to try “natural” alternatives to rapidly eliminate a blemish. Moreover, botanical therapies may have the added advantage of multiple modes of action due to their biochemical composition of a variety of active molecules. However, although many exist, only a few are scientifically proven, such as tea tree essential oil, one of the most popular alternative remedies despite limited research into its action on acne.

In addition to tea tree essential oil, the green tea extract, Copaiba essential oil and clove bud essential oil have also shown their ability to reduce blemishes.

Extracted from the leaves of the native Australian tree Melaleuca alternifolia, the tea tree essential oil (INCI: Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil) has demonstrated some anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity. Studies have shown that a small amount of diluted tea tree essential oil can reduce the number of imperfections in patients with mild to moderate acne.

For example, a single-blind randomised clinical trial of 124 patients conducted by BARNETSON R. S. and colleagues found that 5% tea tree essential oil in a water-based gel was as effective at reducing inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions as a 5% benzoyl peroxide lotion, although the tea tree oil did not act as quickly as the benzoyl peroxide.

In another study, a gel containing 5% tea tree oil was almost four times more effective at reducing inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne lesions, and nearly six times more effective at reducing acne severity than a placebo – that is, the gel base alone. Although tea tree essential oil does not make a spot disappear in a single day, it appears effective in alleviating an acne lesion while causing fewer adverse effects.

Despite its proven efficacy, the European Commission does not regulate claims that tea tree essential oil can treat pimples. Therefore, it is advisable to exercise caution when using it and always perform a patch test on the skin before application.

How can tea tree essential oil be used to treat a pimple?

Highly concentrated, it is important to note that tea tree essential oil should never be applied undiluted to the skin. Therefore, dilute one drop of tea tree essential oil in a teaspoon of carrier oil before applying it with a cotton bud directly to the blemish once or twice a day.

In the case of a particularly stubborn spot (inflammatory acne nodules), the fastest and most effective way to eliminate it is to receive a cortisone injection (triamcinolone acetonide at a concentration of 2.5 mg/mL) administered directly into the spot by a dermatologist. Administered via a syringe fitted with a very fine needle, the cortisone injection contains a steroid that reduces the swollen tissue of the spot and relieves inflammation, allowing it to heal. You will notice a visible improvement within 24 hours. However, steroid injections are generally reserved for the most severe types of acne and should not be the first-line treatment for inflammatory acne. Furthermore, this therapy may potentially lead to local skin atrophy.

By external application, cryotherapy is a minimally invasive procedure in which a very low-temperature agent (cryogen), such as liquid nitrogen, argon gas, carbon dioxide or liquid nitrous oxide, is applied to the tissue using a spray device or a cotton bud. Already employed to treat various skin conditions (warts, etc.), this therapy is also considered effective in the treatment of acne lesions, as supported by several clinical studies. Cystic acne lesions almost invariably resolve after a few cryotherapy sessions. According to some studies, exposure to extreme cold can reduce the appearance of a lesion by inducing damage to the lesion wall, thereby promoting immune cell infiltration, blocking sebum production and triggering the release of fewer pro-inflammatory molecules.

Cryotherapy is not effective against comedonal acne. It has long been used, in particular, to treat nodulocystic and keloidal lesions.

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