Comment utiliser la dihydroxyacétone ?

How to use Dihydroxyacetone (DHA)?

The DHA is currently the main active ingredient in self-tanning products, but it can also be found in some natural hair dyes. Chemically, it is a sugar, more specifically a carbohydrate monomer. Find our advice on how to use this compound wisely.

What is DHA and what are its applications?

The DHA is a sugar found in plants such as sugarcane or sugar beet. In skincare and haircare, it can be of synthetic or natural origin. When it is naturally derived, it is extracted through a biotechnological process involving microorganisms. Indeed, it is obtained through the fermentation of glycerol, which is itself extracted from plants such as rapeseed, corn, or beetroot.

From an organoleptic perspective, DHA is an odourless, crystalline white powder that is hydrophilic (water-soluble). This colouring agent interacts with the amine functions carried by the amino acids of dead cells in the corneal layer or keratin proteins present on the surface of hair via the Maillard reaction. This reaction leads to the formation of melanoidins, heterogeneous polymers responsible for the brown colour.

When applied topically, DHA is present in self-tanning products to provide a tan to the skin without having to expose it to the sun. You can find this active ingredient in our self-tanning serum DHA 10% + carob pulp extract, as well as in our body self-tanning gel DHA 5% + aloe vera. In hair applications, this molecule is part of some natural dyes to darken hair and/or conceal the white hairs that appear over time.

How to use DHA for the skin?

DHA is used as an active ingredient in self-tanning products. This type of care is applied periodically, that is, whenever you want to have a tanned complexion, in summer as well as in the depths of winter.

Regarding the face, take a small amount and spread the serum, milk or self-tanning cream using a brush or directly with your fingers by making circular movements. The treatment is applied starting from the T-zone towards the extremities. Two to three drops of treatment are sufficient to cover the face. Do not forget the ears and the neck. Allow the treatment to dry for at least 1 hour. Wash your hands immediately afterwards.

Do the same for the body, this time taking a larger amount. As with the face, you can apply the DHA-rich care with bare hands (don't forget to wash them well afterwards) or with the help of latex gloves or a special self-tanning mitt. You can apply two successive layers of the self-tanning product on the legs, arms, décolletage... being lighter-handed on the second application. The second layer enhances the tan in areas of the body that retain more light: the décolletage, the shoulders... Be sure to blend the product well in the transition areas of the body such as the ankles, wrists, knees or elbows (remove any excess with a tissue if necessary). Before getting dressed, wait at least one hour for the product to dry and not stain your clothes. Wait 3 hours before going under water or even 24 hours if you want a quick tanning effect.

Tip : To achieve an even tan, it is recommended to exfoliate the day before. This step helps to remove dead skin cells and optimise the duration of your tan. You could, for example, use the nourishing scrubfor the body and the radiance scrubfor the face. If you prefer a solid soap, the exfoliating wash carewith poppy allows you to gently exfoliate the skin while nourishing it. Made with 100% natural ingredients, it contains poppy seeds, cornmeal, organic olive oil, coconut oil and sunflower oil.

How to use DHA for hair?

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is a colouring agent that is typically used in the composition of natural dyes, also referred to as non-oxidative dyes. Unlike traditional dyes, natural non-oxidative dyes rich in DHA colour the hair without altering its structure. They work solely on the surface, interacting with the keratins present on the hair fibres. The use of this type of treatment allows the hair to maintain its shine as the keratin remains intact.

Generally, it is recommended to apply the treatment in question to dry hair and leave it on for at least an hour before rinsing. It should be noted, as they act superficially, DHA-based colourings are however temporary. To maintain the colour, it is therefore necessary to space out shampoos and reapply the colour a few weeks later. Moreover, prior preparation can help prolong the colour. A scalp scrub is particularly necessary to remove dead cells and revitalise the hair. You can thus use our scalp scrub based on gluconolactone (PHA) and jojoba beads. This pre-shampoo exfoliating gel gently removes dead cells for a healthy and balanced scalp.

Source:

  • CIRIMINNA R. & al., Dihydroxyacetone: An updated insight into a significant bioproduct. ChemistryOpen (2018).

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