What should you know about phytokeratin?

Keratin is a fibrous protein found in the outer layers of the skin and in appendages such as hair, body hair and nails. Its structure, rich in sulphur-containing amino acids including cysteine, gives it a high resistance and an essential protective function. It acts as a framework that provides both strength and elasticity to tissues. In skincare products, keratin is of animal origin, extracted from wool, feathers or hooves.

To provide a more ethical alternative, phytokeratin was introduced. Unlike conventional keratin, this plant-based version is obtained from hydrolysed proteins sourced from plants such as wheat, maize, soya or sweet almond. On INCI lists, it may appear under the namesHydrolysed Wheat ProteinorHydrolysed Sweet Almond Protein. It does not contain keratin in the strict sense, but its amino acid profile is similar to that of human keratin, allowing it to mimic its effects.

At Typology, in line with our formulation charter, we exclude all animal-derived ingredients and favour phytokeratin.

Phytokeratin is obtained from plant proteins, such as those from wheat, maize, soy, or sweet almond. These raw materials undergo grinding and filtration before enzymatic hydrolysis. The process relies on the action of specific proteolytic enzymes, such as papain from papaya or bromelain from pineapple. These enzymes cleave peptide bonds in long protein chains, fragmenting macromolecules into smaller peptides and amino acids.

Selecting the enzymes and reaction conditions (temperature, pH, hydrolysis duration) allows a precise amino acid spectrum in proportions similar to those found in human keratin.

Phytokeratin is a versatile ingredient found in many skin, hair, and nail care products. However, although its use in formulations is increasing, there is to date no independent clinical study evaluating its effects. The benefits attributed to it rely on analogies with animal-derived keratin, due to similarities in their amino acid profiles, or on data from internal studies conducted by suppliers. These studies offer useful insights but have not been validated in an independent scientific setting, which calls for caution when interpreting the results.

What are the benefits of phytokeratin for the skin?

Phytokeratin appears to have a strong affinity for the stratum corneum, which is rich in keratin. Keratin is produced by keratinocytes, the primary cells of the epidermis, and constitutes one of the main structural elements of the stratum corneum. It forms a durable, resilient network that protects the skin from external stressors and limits water loss. This water-insoluble protein helps create a semi-permeable barrier with the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum. Phytokeratin, often regarded as a biomimetic active, could enhance the skin’s barrier function by promoting corneocyte cohesion. It also has a film-forming effect that helps retain moisture in the epidermis. It reduces the permeability of the cutaneous barrier and helps maintain skin suppleness and hydration.

What hair benefit does phytokeratin offer?

Keratin accounts for about 95% of hair structure. It is produced by hair follicle keratinocytes and gives hair fibres strength, elasticity, and resistance to external stress. This protein forms compact helical structures reinforced by disulfide bonds between sulphur-containing amino acids such as cysteine. On the surface, cuticle scales are also rich in keratin; their correct alignment is essential to ensure shine and protection. Chemical, thermal, or mechanical stress can degrade keratin and weaken hair fibres, increasing the porosity and causing a loss of cohesion.

Phytokeratin could be a plant-based solution to strengthen, repair and protect damaged hair. Thanks to its low molecular weight resulting from hydrolysis, it may penetrate the cuticle to support its internal reconstruction. Phytokeratin could fill gaps in the cuticle, reduce porosity and smooth the hair surface to enhance shine and suppleness. It is thought to form a protective film that limits water loss and prevents fibre breakage.

Phytokeratin for nail care?

Nails are primarily composed of keratin. Produced by keratinocytes in the nail matrix, keratin arranges into stacked layers linked by disulfide bonds. This specific architecture provides nails with mechanical strength while allowing flexibility. When keratin is altered, for example by exposure to certain solvents or impact, the nail weakens and may split, break or form ridges. Keratin therefore plays a key role in nail health.

It is reasonable to think that phytokeratin, similar to keratin, could strengthen weakened nails. Its low molecular weight may allow penetration into the nail’s superficial layers to restore protein cohesion. This strengthens the nail structure and improves resistance to breakage. Its film-forming effect protects nails from external damage.

The phytokeratin is a well-tolerated skincare active because its composition closely resembles that of keratin naturally found in hair, nails, and skin.

To date, no scientific study has linked its use to adverse effects. Phytokeratin is neither irritating nor sensitising and poses no risk for sensitive groups, including pregnant people and children. It is used at concentrations between 0.5% and 5%, but there is no regulatory limit on its maximum concentration. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel did not evaluate phytokeratin. It confirmed the safety of amino acids from hydrolysed keratin, which are structurally similar to those from plant hydrolysis. In tests for skin and eye irritation on these compounds, no side effects were reported.

At Typology, you'll find phytokeratin in some of our products for nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and hair.

• Hand & Nail Serum : Containing 1% phytokeratin and 2% of hyaluronic acid, this serum repairs and strengthens brittle, damaged nails while hydrating the skin of the hands. It contains biotin which supports reinforcement of nails and cuticles and helps prevent breakage.

• Anti-Dandruff Shampoo : In addition to phytokeratin, this shampoo contains piroctone olamine, an ingredient that combats dandruff through antifungal and sebum-regulating actions. It acts in synergy with jujube extract, which normalises scalp exfoliation and reduces irritation and itching, and the essential oils of Atlas cedar and clary sage.

• Densifying Shampoo : Enriched with caffeine and acetyl tetrapeptide-3, this 95% naturally derived formula stimulates scalp microcirculation to support hair growth. It strengthens hair fibre anchoring to reduce hair loss.

• Repairing Hair Mask : Enriched with ceramides biomimetic, in mango butter and in avocado oil, this rich formulation restores cuticle cohesion and nourishes the hair fibre. Apply once or twice a week to soften hair and prevent split ends.

• Restorative Hair Serum : Composed of 99% natural ingredients, this hair serum contains hyaluronic acid and vegetable keratin. Its light texture allows it to hydrate and strengthen the hair fibers to limit breakage and provide them with shine and softness, without weighing them down. Suitable for all hair types, it is used on both dry and wet hair.

• Fortifying Brow Gel : Available in three shades, this hybrid treatment is formulated with pea peptides with densifying properties that strengthen the eyebrows. It delivers definition and volume for a natural, buildable result.

• Serum Mascara : In addition to enhancing lash intensity, this product strengthens lashes and protects them from oxidative stress and environmental aggressors thanks to its content of castor oil. It contains pea peptides to densify lashes.

• ANDERSEN F. A. & al. Safety assessment of animal- and plant-derived amino acids as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology (2014).

• KWON I. K. & al. Human hair keratin and its-based biomaterials for biomedical applications. Tissue Engineering and Regenerative Medicine (2014).

• MEYER A. S. & al. Microbial enzymes catalyzing keratin degradation: Classification, structure, function. Biotechnology Advances (2020).

• NARASAIAH B. & al. Extraction and application of keratin from natural resources: A review. 3 Biotech (2021).

• GARG R & al. Contribution of environmental constituents in the genomic disruption of cytokeratins. Cytogenetics - Classical and Molecular Strategies for Analysing Heredity Material (2021).