Phytokeratin: Are there dangers we should be aware of?

Phytokeratin: Are there dangers we should be aware of?

In cosmetics, phytokeratin is primarily used for its hydrating and protective effects and can be found in both skincare and haircare products. But is its cosmetic use indeed safe? Let's discover this together.

Summary
Published September 17, 2024, updated on September 17, 2024, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 4 min read

Is phytokeratin dangerous?

A plant-based alternative to animal keratin, the phytokeratin can be described as a sequence of amino acids derived from plant proteins, often sourced from grains such as wheat, corn, or soy. These amino acids are quite similar to those of human keratin, a fibrous protein found in the outermost layers of the epidermis, but also in hair and nails. The phytokeratin is valued in cosmetics for its moisturising and strengthening properties and is included in the composition of many treatments under the INCI names "Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein" or "Hydrolyzed Sweet Almond Protein". It is also appreciated for its safety.

Phytokeratin is a cosmetic active ingredient that is very well tolerated by all skin types, even the most sensitive ones.

Highly biocompatible with skin and hair, phytokeratin is not associated with risks of irritation or allergy. Indeed, to date, no skin reactions have been reported in the scientific literature. Suitable for sensitive skin, phytokeratin does not present any particular incompatibility with other cosmetic actives. It should also be noted that no risk has been identified regarding the use of cosmetics containing phytokeratin in pregnant or breastfeeding women. It is also interesting to know that phytokeratin is generally found at a level of 0.5 to 5% in formulation, although the European cosmetic regulation does not state a maximum concentration.

Does phytokeratin require any specific usage precautions?

Phytokeratin thus falls into the category of cosmetics that are safe to use, regardless of your skin type. However, as caution is the mother of safety, it is recommended to perform a tolerance test the first time you use a product containing phytokeratin. This is, in fact, a good habit to adopt with all your cosmetics to avoid any adverse skin reactions.

Thus, before using a skincare product containing phytokeratin for the first time, we advise you to apply it to a small area of your body. The recommended areas for this are the inside of the elbow or wrist, often used during dermatological patch tests as they are considered representative. After applying the cosmetic to be tested, it is recommended to wait 24 to 48 hours to observe any potential redness, swelling or irritation. The absence of these unpleasant symptoms is a sign that your skin tolerates phytokeratin well. Of course, in case of immediate discomfort, do not hesitate to rinse the product off without delay: this type of immediate reaction is classified as irritative and is to be distinguished from cosmetic allergy.

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