Hemisqualane: What is it?

In recent years, squalane has established itself as a major active ingredient in skincare products due to the emollient and moisturising qualities it provides. Hemisqualane, another active component, has a similar effect but leaves the skin feeling less "heavy" than squalane. Hemisqualane has the consistency of a dry oil.

Hemisqualane is a light, oily biotechnological ingredient that serves as a natural alternative to silicone.

In scientific terms, it refers to a non-polar hydrocarbon derived from the fermentation of sugarcane bagasse. Squalane has 30 carbons while hemisqualane has 15. Squalane has an average spreading capacity with a viscosity and flash point slightly higher than those of hemisqualane. Both are high-performance emollients, sourced sustainably today.

Hemisqualane provides excellent sensory and spreading properties, making it ideal for replacing silicones in colour cosmetics, sun care, hair care, and so on. It is an excellent substitute for isohexadecane, amodimethicone, and cyclomethicones such as cyclopentasiloxane (D5). It also offers benefits for makeup removal.

This dry oil exhibits the following characteristics.

• Moisturising properties

  Hemisqualane is beneficial for the skin as it reduces insensible water loss. When used regularly, it helps to diminish wrinkles and fine lines.

• A light texture

  Individuals with oily skin will greatly benefit from the use of hemisqualane as a replacement for other products, due to its non-greasy nature and lightness.

• Non-comedogenic

  Hemisqualane is an excellent choice for individuals with oily skin and who are prone to acne, as it does not cause pore blockage and does not exacerbate acne outbreaks.

• An emollient action

  In addition to making the skin's surface softer and smoother, it gives the skin a more hydrated and suppler appearance.

Because they help to prevent dryness, hemisqualane and squalane are ideal for individuals with dry but also sensitive, reactive or ageing skin (these skin types are more likely to suffer from dryness). Although these oils are suitable for all skin types, it is those with these skin types who will benefit the most.