How to use mandelic acid?

Is used at a pH of 3.0 - 4.0.

Generally present in over-the-counter skincare products at a concentration between 5 and 10%.

Requires the application of a broad-spectrum sun protection in the morning following the application.

"Mandelic Acid", as per its INCI nomenclature, is an aromatic organic acid, a member of the alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) family, also known as fruit acids. It presents a gentler alternative to other AHAs, due to its larger molecular size, which does not penetrate as deeply or rapidly into the epidermis. Consequently, the skin is less likely to experience irritations, redness, and flaking caused by other acids.

The effectiveness of mandelic acid depends on the quantity of free acids acting on the skin, which is based on two factors:

• In skincare formulations, mandelic acid is typically concentrated between 5 and 10%. Any chemical exfoliation with mandelic acid at a concentration higher than 10% (up to 50%) should be recommended, prescribed and performed by a dermatologist, often in a clinic setting requiring pre- and post-treatment care protocols.

• Mandelic acid should be combined with a solution that has an acidic pH: it should be between 3.0 and 4.0 in order to maintain the optimal effectiveness of mandelic acid on the skin. The higher the pH, the more the mandelic acid is neutralised and its activity in the skincare is reduced.

Our mandelic acid treatments have been formulated with an active mandelic acid concentration ranging from 6 to 10% and a pH of 3.5 to 4.0 suitable for night-time use, for effective exfoliation and natural cellular renewal.

All AHA's have the potential to irritate the skin. Therefore, caution must be exercised when using them.

• Rule No. 1 : Start gently. Choose treatments with a low concentration (< 5%) for your first use of mandelic acid. Ensure it does not irritate your skin before trying a more "potent" treatment.

• Rule No. 2 : Limit usage. When used topically, mandelic acid should be applied gradually to acclimatise the epidermis and avoid potential adverse reactions. You can start by applying it twice a week before increasing the frequency. Once your skin is accustomed to this active ingredient, you can use it every day.

• Rule No. 3 : Rotate your products. Be cautious if you are using mandelic acid at the same time as other AHAs or retinol-based products. Their combination can cause dryness, redness or irritation, particularly for atopic skin types.

• Rule No. 4 : Wear a sunscreen with an SPF30 or higher. There is a risk that mandelic acid may increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun, the risk of burning or brown spots. Therefore, limit your sun exposure by wearing a broad-spectrum sun protection , staying in the shade or wearing protective clothing (hat, long clothes) during the period of use.

• Rule No. 5 : Hydrate your skin well. Even if it's a gentle exfoliating acid, remember to hydrate your skin with a hydrating serum such as one with hyaluronic acid, or a moisturising cream, given that mandelic acid can temporarily compromise the skin's protective barrier.

Read and follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully before using a skincare product containing mandelic acid. Also consider to perform a skin irritation test. This involves applying the product to the crook of your elbow or a part of your face for 24 to 48 hours to assess your skin's tolerance to the product.

Given the benefits it can provide to the skin, we have chosen to incorporate themandelic acid into two Typology skincare products.

• The exfoliating night cream combines 6% of glycolic acid and mandelic acid with a purifying complex featuring true lavender essential oil (INCI name: Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil). It has an exfoliating power that promotes cellular renewal. This night peeling treatment stimulates the complexion's radiance, refines the skin texture, tightens the pores and reduces the presence of blackheads. In addition to the AHAs, it also contains pink grapefruit extract (INCI name: Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract) to improve the skin's texture and overall radiance.

  Skin Typology: Combination, oily, prone to imperfections.

  Requirements: night care, anti-blemish treatments, astringent care, brightening treatment.

  Usage Instructions: In the evening, after the serum, apply an amount equivalent to the size of a hazelnut over the entire face and neck, while avoiding the eye contour. Start with one to two applications per day to accustom the skin to the acids contained in the treatment. After a few weeks of application, you can move to daily use. As mandelic acid and glycolic acid are photosensitising, always apply a sunscreen the following morning.

• The exfoliating gel mask combines glycolic acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid (INCI name: Tartaric Acid & Tamarindus Indica Extract) and gluconolactone (PHA) to gently exfoliate the skin and promote skin cell renewal to visibly refine the skin texture and significantly improve skin radiance. This peeling mask is complemented by a soothing complex with bisabolol and green tea extract (INCI name: Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract).

  Skin Typology: Combination, oily, prone to blemishes, lacking in radiance; not recommended for sensitive skin due to its high concentration of AHA.

  Requirements: night care, anti-blemish treatments, astringent care, brightening treatment.

  Usage Instructions: Only in the evening, on clean and dry skin, apply the mask in a semi-thick layer on the face, avoiding the eye and mouth area. Leave it on for 10 minutes then rinse thoroughly with warm water. Due to its high concentration of AHA, it should be used a maximum of twice a week. As AHAs are compounds that increase skin's sensitivity to the sun, always apply a sunscreen the following morning and limit your sun exposure during the period of using this treatment.