Mandelic acid is a fruit acid derived from bitter almonds. This non-aggressive active ingredient is suitable for all skin types, even for sensitive skin. But how to use it to obtain the desired results?
Library
All Topics
How To Use Mandelic Acid?
Summary
- Key Points on How To Use Mandelic Acid
- Mandelic Acid: How Is It Formulated?
- For Safe Use of Mandelic Acid
- Tips for Using Typology Products With Mandelic Acid
Published February 13, 2023,
updated on March 1, 2024,
by
Stéphanie, PhD, Doctorate in Life and Health Sciences
—
7 min read
Key Points on How To Use Mandelic Acid
It is used at a pH of 3.0 - 4.0.
Typically found in non-prescription skin care products at a concentration of 5-10%.
It requires the application of a broad spectrum sunscreen the morning after application.
Mandelic Acid: How Is It Formulated?
Mandelic Acid, according to its INCI name, is an aromatic organic acid, a member of the alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) or fruit acid family. It is a milder alternative to other AHAs because it has a higher molecular size and does not penetrate as deeply or quickly into the epidermis. This makes the skin less likely to experience irritation, redness and flaking caused by other acids.
The effectiveness of mandelic acid depends on the amount of free acids acting on the skin, which is based on two factors:
In skin care formulas, mandelic acid is on average concentrated between 5 and 10%. Any chemical exfoliation with mandelic acid with a concentration higher than 10% (up to 50%) must be recommended, prescribed and performed by a dermatologist, often requiring pre- and post-care protocols.
Mandelic acid must be associated with a solution with an acidic pH: it must be between 3.0 and 4.0 in order to preserve optimal effectiveness of mandelic acid on the skin. The higher the pH, the more the mandelic acid is neutralized and the more its activity in the care is diminished.
Our mandelic acid skin care products have been formulated with a concentration of active mandelic acid ranging from 6 to 10% and a pH of 3.5 to 4.0 suitable for use at night, for effective exfoliation and natural cell renewal.
For Safe Use of Mandelic Acid
All AHAs can irritate the skin. So be careful when using it.
Rule #1: Start small. Choose low-concentration (<5%) skincare for your first use of mandelic acid. Make sure it doesn't irritate your skin before trying a more "potent" product.
Rule #2: Limit use. When used on the skin, Mandelic Acid should be applied gradually to get the skin used to it and to avoid possible adverse reactions. You can start by applying it twice a week before increasing the frequency. Once your skin is used to this active ingredient, you can use it every day.
Rule #3: Rotate products. Be careful if you use mandelic acid along with other AHAs or retinol-based products. Their combination can cause dryness, redness or irritation, especially for sensitive skin.
Rule #4: Wear a sunscreen with a SFP30 or higher. There is a risk that mandelic acid will increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun, thus increasing the chance of sunburn and brown spots. So limit your exposure to the sun by wearing a broad spectrum sunscreen, staying in the shade or wearing protective clothing (hat, long clothing) during the time of use.
Rule #5: Moisturize your skin. Even though it is a mild exfoliating acid, consider moisturizing your skin with a hydrating serum such as hyaluronic acid or a moisturizing cream, as mandelic acid can temporarily compromise the skin's protective barrier.
Be sure to read and follow the manufacturer's instructions before using a mandelic acid-based skin care product. Also consider performing a skin irritation test. This consists of applying the care product to the hollow of the elbow or to a part of the face for 24 to 48 hours in order to evaluate your skin's tolerance to the product.
Tips for Using Typology Products With Mandelic Acid
Because of the benefits it can bring to the skin, we have chosen to integrate mandelic acid in two Typology products.
The exfoliating night cream combines 6% glycolic acid and mandelic acid with a purifying complex of true lavender essential oil (INCI name: Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil). It has an exfoliating power that promotes cell renewal. This night peeling stimulates the radiance of the complexion, refines the skin texture, tightens the pores and reduces the presence of blackheads. In addition to AHAs, it also contains pink grapefruit extract (INCI name: Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract) to improve skin texture and overall radiance.
Skin type: Combination, oily, blemish-prone.
Needs: Night treatment, anti-imperfection treatment, astringent treatment, brightening treatment.
How to use: In the evening, after serum, apply the equivalent of a hazelnut-sized amount to the entire face and neck, avoiding the eye area. Start with one to two applications per day to accustom the skin to the acids contained in the treatment. After a few weeks of application, you can switch to daily use. Since mandelic acid and glycolic acid are photosensitizing, always apply sun protection the next morning.
The exfoliating gel-mask combines glycolic acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid (INCI name: Tartaric Acid & Tamarindus Indica Extract) and gluconolactone (PHA) in order to gently exfoliate the skin and promote skin cell renewal to visibly refine the skin texture and significantly improve skin radiance. This peeling mask is completed by a soothing complex with bisabolol and green tea extract (INCI name: Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract).
Skin type: Combination, oily, skin prone to imperfections, skin in need of radiance; this product is not recommended for sensitive skin due to its high concentration of AHA.
Needs: Night treatment, anti-blemish treatment, astringent treatment, brightening treatment.
How to use: In the evening only, on a clean and dry skin, apply the mask in a semi-thick layer to the face, avoiding the eye and mouth area. Leave on for 10 minutes then rinse thoroughly with warm water. Due to its high concentration of AHAs, it can be used twice a week at most. As AHAs are compounds that increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun, systematically apply sun protection the next morning and limit your exposure to the sun during the period of use of this product.
Diagnostic
Understand your skin
and its complex needs.
