Mandelic acid, with the INCI name "Mandelic acid", is an AHA. It comes from the bitter almond. This fruit acid can be of natural or synthetic origin. It is appreciated for its benefits on the skin and hair. If you want to incorporate a treatment containing this acid into your beauty routine, here's what you need to know.
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When To Use Mandelic Acid?
Summary
- Mandelic Acid, a Solution to Various Problems
- Mandelic Acid: When To Include It Correctly in Your Skin Care Routine?
Published February 13, 2023,
updated on March 1, 2024,
by
Stéphanie, PhD, Doctorate in Life and Health Sciences
—
4 min read
Mandelic Acid, a Solution to Various Problems
What is mandelic acid?
Mandelic acid (INCI name: Mandelic Acid) is the largest of the AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids), obtained from the hydrolysis of bitter almonds. Very soft and non-irritating, with its high molecular weight, it penetrates less deeply into the epidermis than other AHAs, acting on the surface. This fruit acid has a known keratolytic effect and gently eliminates dead cells accumulated on the surface of the epidermis. These cells dull the complexion, give an irregular appearance to the skin texture and are responsible for the appearance of imperfections.
The benefits of mandelic acid on the skin.
Anti-Blemish: Anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory, the use of mandelic acid skincare helps control bacterial growth, unclog pores and reduce inflammation. This helps to erase irregularities and prevent future breakouts.
Fight the signs of aging: As a regenerator, mandelic acid promotes cell renewal, which helps to address the signs of aging, including reducing the appearance of fine lines and improving skin elasticity.
Radiance and uniformity of the complexion: With its exfoliating power, mandelic acid evens out the complexion, helps restore the skin's radiance and reduces the appearance of pigmentation spots.
Mandelic Acid: When To Include It Correctly in Your Skin Care Routine?
Photosensitising, potentially irritating, reddening... the use of mandelic acid must be reasonable and controlled, although it is considered gentle and suitable for most skin types.
At what time of day should I use mandelic acid?
Skincare products containing mandelic acid should be applied only at night to maximize their effects and minimize the risk of irritation and photosensitization. Indeed, AHAs including mandelic acid increase photosensitivity because they reduce the natural photoprotection represented by the corneal layer, which increases the chance of sunburn. It is therefore preferable to apply skin care products containing AHAs in the evening at bedtime for greater safety.
Moreover, night is when the skin starts its natural regeneration process: this is when it is most receptive to the exfoliation and cell renewal stimulation induced by mandelic acid.
Nevertheless, cleansing products with a low concentration of mandelic acid (< 5%) can also be used in the morning. In addition, the surfactants present in the product will eliminate the mandelic acid molecules.
In any case, don't forget to protect yourself properly against UV rays by applying a care product with a sun protection factor (SPF) at the end of your routine every morning.
How often should I use mandelic acid?
The frequency of use of a mandelic acid treatment depends on the concentration of acids. In moderate concentrations (> 8%), mandelic acid can be tolerated for a bi-weekly application. On the other hand, for a low concentration (< 8%), it can be used daily, depending on the tolerance level of your skin.
In all cases, it is advisable to start a mandelic acid-based treatment gradually. Serum, lotion, night cream.., for care intended to be used daily, start applying it once or twice a week in order to familiarize your skin.
Moreover, the care products with a high content of mandelic acid are generally recommended to be used as a cure for a few weeks or months until the expected results are obtained. It is possible to renew its use several months or years later if you wish.
When using a new mandelic acid product for the first time, read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for safe use and to avoid the risk of irritation.
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