Photosensitising, potentially irritating, reddening... the use of mandelic acid must be reasonable and controlled, although it is considered gentle and suitable for most skin types.
At what time of day should I use mandelic acid?
Skincare products containing mandelic acid should be applied only at night to maximize their effects and minimize the risk of irritation and photosensitization. Indeed, AHAs including mandelic acid increase photosensitivity because they reduce the natural photoprotection represented by the corneal layer, which increases the chance of sunburn. It is therefore preferable to apply skin care products containing AHAs in the evening at bedtime for greater safety.
Moreover, night is when the skin starts its natural regeneration process: this is when it is most receptive to the exfoliation and cell renewal stimulation induced by mandelic acid.
Nevertheless, cleansing products with a low concentration of mandelic acid (< 5%) can also be used in the morning. In addition, the surfactants present in the product will eliminate the mandelic acid molecules.
In any case, don't forget to protect yourself properly against UV rays by applying a care product with a sun protection factor (SPF) at the end of your routine every morning.
How often should I use mandelic acid?
The frequency of use of a mandelic acid treatment depends on the concentration of acids. In moderate concentrations (> 8%), mandelic acid can be tolerated for a bi-weekly application. On the other hand, for a low concentration (< 8%), it can be used daily, depending on the tolerance level of your skin.
In all cases, it is advisable to start a mandelic acid-based treatment gradually. Serum, lotion, night cream.., for care intended to be used daily, start applying it once or twice a week in order to familiarize your skin.
Moreover, the care products with a high content of mandelic acid are generally recommended to be used as a cure for a few weeks or months until the expected results are obtained. It is possible to renew its use several months or years later if you wish.
When using a new mandelic acid product for the first time, read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for safe use and to avoid the risk of irritation.