Mandelic Acid: What are the treatments based on this fruit acid?

Derived from the hydrolysis of bitter almonds, mandelic acid (INCI name: Mandelic Acid) is one of the gentlest AHAs. Indeed, due to its higher molecular weight compared to other AHAs, it penetrates less deeply and is distributed more slowly within the epidermis. In this way, it is less irritating and does not cause hyperpigmentation, depigmentation or redness, thus allowing sensitive skin to benefit from its advantages.

It provides several benefits to the skin:

• It eliminates dead cells;

• It diminishes the appearance of fine lines;

• It illuminates the complexion;

• It tightens enlarged pores;

• It makes the skin texture smoother;

• It reduces the appearance of brown spots on the skin, unifying the skin tone;

• It stimulates cellular renewal;

• It stimulates the synthesis of collagen and elastin;

• It hydrates the skin by encouraging the production of sebum;

• It protects the skin from the attack of free radicals;

• it enhances the absorption of other active ingredients;

• It enhances the skin's elasticity;

• It inhibits the growth of bacteria.

Long confined to dermatological clinics, it is now common to find mandelic acid in the ingredient list of skincare products designed for all skin types. These products typically contain between 5 to 10% mandelic acid. It is particularly incorporated into the following formulas:

• Exfoliating masks/gels with a peeling effect. The reason? Thanks to its exfoliating action, mandelic acid is often used in the formulation of face masks to restore radiance to the complexion. It is particularly suitable for combination to oily skin or even dry skin with irregularities.

• Anti-blemish treatments. Why? Serum, night cream, toning lotions... mandelic acid is highly effective in neutralising blemishes (blackheads, spots...). It helps combination to oily skin, prone to imperfections, to rid itself of impurities, bacteria and dead cells that can clog pores. The pores are thus unclogged and the presence of blackheads is then reduced in the long term.

• Depigmenting serums, anti-brown spot treatments. Sun spots, melasma, hyperpigmentation caused by skin eruptions... whether for the skin of the face or body, themandelic acid can be used to fade the appearance of brown spots. It is even found in anti-dark circle treatments.

• Care for mature skin. The explanation? In this type of care, themandelic acid is valued for its smoothing, anti-spot, firming and hydrating effects (stimulation of sebum production).

• Hygiene products such as micellar water, makeup removers, cleansing gels, shower gels... The rationale? For a deep cleanse and enhanced penetration for other active ingredients.

Themandelic acid can also be incorporated into hair care products such as shampoos or hair lotions..., particularly to control flaking and thus soothe the itching of the scalp that accompanies dandruff.