Eye contour: why use retinol?

Retinol is a molecule that belongs to the retinoid family. As it is not synthesised by the body, this derivative of vitamin A is often incorporated into skincare targeting skin ageing, although its skin benefits do not stop there. Retinol can also be useful in combating brown spots, excess sebum, or a dull complexion, for example. From a mechanistic perspective, this molecule accelerates cell renewal and stimulates the activity of fibroblasts, the cells that synthesise collagen and elastin, among other things. Once applied to the skin, retinol is converted into retinal and then into retinoic acid, before binding to RXR and RAR receptors. This binding results in the formation of an activated RAR/RXR heterodimeric complex that behaves like a transcription factor capable of modulating cell differentiation.

While retinol is notably effective, it is also associated with risks of skin irritation. These risks are amplified around the eye contour, where the skin is extremely thin, about five times more so than the rest of the face, and delicate. That's why it's recommended to introduce retinol gradually into your skincare routine. Once the skin is accustomed to this active ingredient, it's possible to gradually increase the frequency of application, up to once or twice a day.

It would be unfortunate to give up on retinol for the eye contour, as its effectiveness on wrinkles makes it a valuable ally for this area.

Indeed, several studies have demonstrated the effectiveness of retinol on the eye contour. One of these was conducted with 30 women, averaging 50 years of age. For eight weeks, these volunteers applied a cream containing retinol and collagen to half of their face. Both the researchers and the participants noted a significant reduction in wrinkles on the side where the cream had been applied, particularly around the eye contour, as shown in the photos below. No side effects were reported, but the concentration of retinol in the cream was not disclosed.

Another study reports similar findings. This latter involved 57 patients, presenting with bluish dark circles and wrinkles around the eye contour. Twice a day for eight weeks, they were asked to apply a gel containing 2% phytonadione, known for improving blood circulation, 0.1% retinol, 0.1% vitamin C and 0.1% vitamin E. Although few details were given regarding the results obtained, the study mentions a significant improvement in wrinkles, presumably due to the retinol contained in the care product. However, five individuals had a slight reaction to the cream and developed a transient erythema. Even though the responsibility of retinol was not confirmed, this incident highlights the importance of testing your skincare products upon first use and gradually integrating retinol into your care routine.

• KAWANA S. & al. The effects of topical application of phytonadione, retinol and vitamins C and E on infraorbital dark circles and wrinkles of the lower eyelids. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2004).

• ODDOS T. & al. Antiaging Action of Retinol: From Molecular to Clinical. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2009).

• KAWARA S. & al. Evaluation of anti-wrinkle effects of a novel cosmetic containing retinol using the guideline of the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association. The Journal of Dermatology (2009).

• MOOSAVI M. & al. A review of the efficacy of popular eye cream ingredients. International Journal of Women's Dermatology (2024).