Everything you need to know about camelina oil.

The camelina or false flax, currently known by its Latin name Camelina sativa, is an oilseed plant that belongs to the diploid Brassicaceae family, along with cabbage and rapeseed. It is an annual herbaceous plant with a straight stem that can reach up to a metre in height, and small yellow flowers that produce seeds one to two millimetres in diameter. Today, it is cultivated in Europe and Central Asia, but traces of its use during the Bronze Age (2200 to 800 BC) have been found. Its stems were used as thatch to cover houses, and its oil was used in the composition of paints and soaps or exploited for culinary purposes.

Most commonly, it is used in the form of camelina oil. It is derived from the seeds, using various extraction methods (cold pressing, supercritical CO2, enzyme-assisted, hexane). The cold pressing extraction technique remains the most widely used, as the process is entirely mechanical and requires no chemical reactants, thus preserving the bioactive compounds and being environmentally friendly, as it avoids the emission of hazardous waste while being cost-effective. After filtration and decantation, the obtained camelina oil has a light, fluid texture and a golden colour, earning it the English nickname of "gold of pleasure".

The numerous benefits of camelina oil are possible thanks to the bioactive compounds it contains.

Note : The biochemical composition of camelina oil can vary depending on the origin of the plant used, and the chosen extraction method.

Thecamelina oil can be used in topical or hair applications, in its pure form or found in various skincare products. It can also be consumed as a dietary supplement. Its uses provide numerous benefits for the skin and hair.

• Reducing skin inflammation and soothing the skin.

  omega-3s found in camelina oil are known for their properties that are anti-inflammatory and soothing. They increase the synthesis of anti-inflammatory lipid mediators (resolvins and protectins) and compete with arachidonic acid, an omega-6 fatty acid that enables the production of pro-inflammatory mediators such as prostaglandin and leukotrienes. Inflammations and itching associated with skin conditions can therefore be relieved.

• Enhance and accelerate wound healing.

  Studies have shown that the topical application of camelina oil has been able to accelerate the differentiation and renewal of keratinocytes, as well as the cellular division of fibroblasts and the synthesis of collagen, and various mechanisms involved in the establishment of skin healing. Furthermore, omega-6, present in small amounts in camelina oil, acts as a coagulant and aids in speeding up the healing of wounds.

• Hydrate and soften the skin.

  Camelina oil contains a high concentration of essential fatty acids such as omega-3. These allow the formation of a lipid barrier on the skin, by influencing the production of skin lipids like ceramides, which are then supplied to keratinocytes and transported by the cell membrane, then metabolised and used to construct a functional epidermal barrier for a more supple and less dry skin. Moreover, camelina oil contains phytosterols that capture and retain moisture. They support the hydrolipidic film present on the surface of the epidermis and help to limit transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

  However,there is little evidence to show a moisturising effect from the direct topical application of camelina oil.

• Slowing down skin ageing.

  Camelina oil contains a significant concentration of tocopherols, which are liposoluble antioxidants. These, through electron transfer, act as free radical scavengers. Free radicals are reactive species created by oxidative degradation following oxidative stress induced by oxygen, light or heat, for example. This action can contribute to slowing down skin ageing. Skin cells, usually impacted by oxidation, will then have their integrity preserved. Studies have also proven the antioxidant action of carotenoids through singlet oxygen trapping.

• Maintaining the quality of the hair.

  Oral consumption of camelina oil could improve the quality of hair fibres by increasing the synthesis of lipids that are distributed along the hair shaft during its growth. Regarding its direct hair application, no specific effect of camelina oil has been demonstrated. However, as with any vegetable oil, it can be assumed that using camelina oil on the hair preserves their quality. Many studies have confirmed that hair treated with vegetable oils showed an increase in the required breakage strength value, that is, the force required to "break" a hair, but also in the ease of combing and shine.

Thecamelina oil is non-comedogenic (index 0), thus suitable for all skin types for topical application, particularly for acne-prone and oily skin.

Let us remember that the concept of "comedogenicity" should be approached with caution, as it can depend on the user, the concentration of the product, and its oxidation state.

It does not carry any risk of major concern associated with its use, as demonstrated by the FDA (Food and Drug Administration) report on camelina oil. Furthermore, it is not contraindicated for pregnant or breastfeeding women, nor for children or babies. However, there are still some precautions for use to be observed for optimal use.

• The oral consumption of camelina oil is not recommended for individuals taking anticoagulant medications which thin the blood, as the omega-3s present have the unique property of preventing the formation of blood clots. Therefore, the interaction of these compounds could potentially lead to the occurrence of side effects.

• Camelina oil is quite sensitive to oxidative degradation, due to its chemical structure rich in omega-3 double bonds. To maintain its quality, remember to tightly seal the bottle to prevent the presence of oxygen. Store it in a cool place, away from direct sunlight for risk-free preservation. The pure oil can be stored for six to eight months in the refrigerator after opening the bottle.

• Before use, consider checking if your oil shows signs of oxidative degradation. To do this, you can analyse its smell, texture and the absence of colour change. Furthermore, it is recommended to perform a skin test in the crook of the elbow, on the inside of the wrist or behind the ear for example, to observe any potential skin reactions.

• Due to the significant epidermal permeability of babies, the topical application of a product exposes them to a risk of toxicity. Although camelina oil is safe for use by the whole family, it is advised to consult a healthcare professional before using it on your child, especially if they have a specific medical condition.

Thecamelina oil (INCI: Camelina Sativa Seed Oil) is often found in nourishing and repairing skincare products. It easily penetrates the skin, and is particularly appreciated by sensitive and oily skin types. This oil is included in our three Typology products from the CALM range, with over 98% of ingredients of natural origin and specially formulated for atopic skin. Camelina oil is part of a three-ingredient lipid-replenishing complex with the shea butter (INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter) and the calendula macerate (INCI: Calendula Officinalis Flowers Oil) which, due to its composition rich in essential fatty acids, regenerates the skin's hydrolipidic film and soothes inflammation.

• The relipidating balm provides comfort and prolonged hydration for dry skin prone to itching and tightness. This non-sticky textured balm with quick absorption is enriched with postbiotics (INCI: Lactococcus Ferment Lysate) which rebalance the skin microbiome and with ceramides accompanied by the relipidating complex that contribute to the maintenance of the skin barrier, with an extract ofOphiopogon japonicus (INCI: Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract) with anti-inflammatory and hydrating effects.

• Designed for skin affected by atopic eczema, the anti-itch cream is suitable for family use and helps to soothe itching and soften the skin. The enoxolone (INCI: Glycyrrhetinic Acid), the bisabolol and extract of Ophiopogon Japonicus contained in the concentrate alleviate inflammation associated with atopic dermatitis and reduce redness. Ceramides and the lipid-replenishing complex provide support to the skin's intracellular cement and protect sensitive skin from external aggressions.

• Psoriasis-related scales damage the appearance and comfort of the skin. The anti-scale cream we offer will improve the skin's appearance and soothe the itching associated with psoriasis. The phytosterols, contained at a concentration of 1%, act as anti-inflammatories and soothe feelings of discomfort. The allantoin acts as a gentle exfoliant by accelerating the removal of dead cells, while smoothing and moisturising the skin. Finally, the lipid content of the dermis and epidermis will be restored by ceramides and the lipid-replenishing complex.

• PUTNAM D.H. Some compositional properties of camelina (Camelina sativa L. Crantz) seeds and oils. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society (1995).

• WEYLANDT K.H. & KANG J.X. Modulation of inflammatory cytokines by omega-3 fatty acids. Lipids in Health and Disease (2008).

• GRAS Notice (GRN) No. 642: Camelina oil. FDA (2016).

• DUMITRIU B. & al. Camelina sativa oil - A review. Scientific Bulletin (2017).

• LEITE M. G. A. & al. Development and efficacy evaluation of hair care formulations containing vegetable oils and silicone. International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients (2018).

• PAPACOCEA R. & al. Regenerative and scare healing potential of active compounds from Camelina sativa oil and grape pomace. Romanian Biotechnological Letters (2019).

• Thèse de Sonia LEPELTIER. Etude ethnobotanique de Camelina sativa (L.) Crantz (2021).

• SHOVELLER A. K. & al. Effects of dietary camelina, flaxseed, and canola oil supplementation on inflammatory and oxidative markers, transepidermal water loss, and coat quality in healthy adult dogs. Frontiers in Veterinary Science (2023).