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Produits cosmétiques à l'huile de caméline.

In which types of cosmetics can one find camelina oil?

Also known as "gold of pleasure" due to its golden yellow colour, camelina oil is derived from the cold-press extraction of seeds from the camelina plant, an oilseed crop. This vegetable oil is often found in skincare and haircare products, and its use is driven by its high concentration of vitamins and fatty acids, giving it anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and soothing properties. In this article, we will review various cosmetic products containing it.

Summary
Published February 22, 2024, by Kahina, Scientific Editor — 6 min read

Cosmetic products with camelina oil.

Camelina (Camelina sativa) is an oilseed plant cultivated worldwide. The Celts were already using camelina oil derived from one of the wild forms of camelina: Camelina microcarpa. The plant Camelina sativa is now the most commonly used for extractingcamelina oil (INCI: Camelina Sativa Seed Oil). Obtained by cold pressing the seeds, camelina oil can be used by the whole family for its benefits on the epidermis and hair fibres. Its uses can be in pure form, to be applied directly, or contained in various cosmetic products.

  • Restorative hair care. Thecamelina oil is often used in the production of shampoos, conditioners, and masks for damaged and/or brittle hair. Generally, camelina oil is combined with plant keratin, which helps to rebuild the hair's structure. In shampoo, this combination allows for hair washing, while respecting the sensitivity and balance of the scalp and hair fibre. Camelina oil is incorporated here for its protective properties. Indeed, the omega-3 fatty acids it contains form a hydrolipidic film around the hair fibres, protecting them from external aggressions.

  • Nourishing Skin Care. Camelina oil is often found in nourishing treatments, such as creams or dry oils. These treatments can be applied to the face, but also to the body, with for example creams for very dry feet. Its light and non-greasy texture allows it to quickly penetrate the skin and act in depth. Omega-3s, such as linolenic acid, tend to increase the production of skin lipids like ceramides. Generally, they promote the formation of a lipid barrier on the skin which makes it more supple and less prone to dryness. Moreover, camelina oil contains phytosterols which act as humectants by capturing and retaining water.

  • Anti-inflammatory and soothing care. The omega-3 fatty acids in camelina oil enable the promotion of anti-inflammatory mediator synthesis, which gives this property to camelina oil. It will then soothe and provide comfort to sensitive and acne-prone skin. It can be found in soothing day creams, for example.

  • Restorative care. Camelina oil is known for its healing properties, provided by polyunsaturated fatty acids. It contributes to dermal and epidermal restoration, and promotes collagen synthesis. It is therefore used in restorative treatments such as stretch mark creams.

  • Skincare to slow down skin ageing. Camelina oil is found in serums. It has a high level of vitamin E, a proven antioxidant. It traps free radicals and prevents oxidative degradation, thus potentially helping to slow down skin ageing. Furthermore, a recent study showed a strong correlation between the concentration of camelina oil and SPF (Sun Protection Factor). Therefore, it may have an effect on slowing down skin ageing caused by UV rays.

  • Baby Care. Camelina oil is also found in baby care products, such as creams for dry and very dry skin, in cases of cradle cap on the scalp for instance. Camelina oil will nourish the skin and soothe redness. It does not present any contraindications for babies, and is suitable for their sensitive skin.

  • Makeup. To enjoy the benefits of camelina oil while providing an aesthetic aspect, there are makeup products containing camelina oil. Camelina oil is primarily present for hydration and allows for the creation of skin-friendly makeup products. For instance, we find foundations with a mousse or liquid texture, eyeshadows, mascaras, or lip glosses.

Which Typology treatments contain camelina oil?

We have decided to incorporatecamelina oil (INCI: Camelina Sativa Seed Oil) into the product formulations of the CALM range to cater to the specific needs of skin prone to atopic conditions.

The camelina oil has been combined with shea butter (INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter), with ceramides (INCI: Ceramide NP) and with calendula macerate (INCI: Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract) to form a lipid-replenishing complex, present in three products of the range: the lipid-replenishing balm, the anti-itch cream and the anti-dandruff cream.

These active ingredients, rich in essential fatty acids, provide comfort and soothe skin inflammation. By supplying skin lipids, they help to reform the hydrolipidic barrier of the skin to protect it from external aggressions and limit water loss.

Source

  • Thèse de Sonia LEPELTIER. Étude ethnobotanique de Camelina sativa (L.) Crantz (2021).

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