Profile: Enoxolone (Glycyrrhetinic Acid)
Commonly known as: Enoxolone, glycyrrhetinic acid, glycyrrhizic acid.
I.N.C.I. list name: Glycyrrhizic Acid.
Extraction process: Hydrolysis of glycyrrhizic acid derived from liquorice.
Source: Plant-based.
Botanical name: Glycyrrhiza glabra.
Family: Leguminosae.
Extracted part of the plant: Root.
Origin, provenance: China.
Chemical properties: Molecular mass: 470.694 g/mol; Insoluble in oil; Slightly soluble in water.
Properties: Emulsion, true aqueous solution, oil.
Required dosage in cosmetic products: Unregulated; Recommended dosage to induce benefits: between 0.5 and 2% in the finished product.
Function: Skin maintenance agent.
Specificities: Antibacterial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, brightening, pigmentation-enhancing, protective.
Benefits: All skin types, particularly reactive skins.
Details
Properties
Antibacterial: Regulating the bacterial populations living on the skin, particularly against Staphylococcus aureus, likely through disruption of the bacterial membrane integrity ;
Anti-inflammatory: Alleviating skin hypersensitivity and reducing skin reactions (irritation, redness, tightness, sensations of heat, etc.) by inhibiting the production of TNF-α and IL-1α, cytokines that are involved in the inflammatory response process, and by converting cortisone into its active form ;
Antioxidant: Protecting DNA, proteins, and cells from the effects induced by free radicals by stimulating the activity of an antioxidant enzyme, heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1), and by inhibiting lipid peroxidation ;
Brightening/Pigmenting: Diminishing the appearance of brown spots by inhibiting tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanogenesis, and the growth of melanocytes or providing a tanned look by stimulating the synthesis of melanin, properties determined by the concentration of the active ingredient in the formula;
Protector: Slowing down skin ageing by preventing skin sagging and the appearance of wrinkles through inhibition of the activity of certain matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1 and MMP-3), enzymes that degrade components of the extracellular matrix.
Usage
Facial Care (antioxidant creams, soothing creams, sun creams/lotions/sprays, repairing lip balms, serums, masks, makeup removers);
Body Care (after-sun care, sun oils, tanning dry oils);
Hygiene (toothpastes) ;
Makeups (foundation bases).
Method of Preservation
Store in a cool, dry and well-ventilated place, protected from direct sunlight, moisture and heat.
Contraindications, usage precautions
Studies have shown that glycyrrhetinic acid at concentrations up to 6% is neither irritating nor sensitising. Therefore, enoxolone is a gentle active ingredient, subject to no restrictions by European cosmetic regulations. No side effects have been reported to date following the topical application of glycyrrhetinic acid.
