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Profile: Enoxolone (Glycyrrhetinic Acid)

Commonly known as: Enoxolone, glycyrrhetinic acid, glycyrrhizic acid.
I.N.C.I. list name: Glycyrrhizic Acid.
Extraction process: Hydrolysis of glycyrrhizic acid derived from liquorice.
Source: Plant-based.
Botanical name: Glycyrrhiza glabra.
Family: Leguminosae.
Part of the plant extracted: Root.
Provenance, origin: China.
Chemical characteristics: Molecular mass: 470.694 g/mol; Insoluble in oil; Slightly soluble in water.
Characteristics: Emulsion, true aqueous solution, oil.
Dosage required in cosmetic products: Unregulated; Recommended dosage to induce benefits: between 0.5 and 2% in the finished product.
Function: Skin maintenance agent.
Properties: Antibacterial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, brightening, pigmentation-enhancing, protective.
Benefits: All skin types, particularly reactive skins.

Details

Properties

  • Antibacterial: Regulating the bacterial populations living on the skin, particularly against Staphylococcus aureus, likely through disruption of the bacterial membrane integrity ;

  • Anti-inflammatory: Alleviating skin hypersensitivity and reducing skin reactions (irritation, redness, tightness, sensations of heat, etc.) by inhibiting the production of TNF-α and IL-1α, cytokines that are involved in the inflammatory response process, and by converting cortisone into its active form ;

  • Antioxidant: Protecting DNA, proteins, and cells from the effects induced by free radicals by stimulating the activity of an antioxidant enzyme, heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1), and by inhibiting lipid peroxidation ;

  • Brightening/Pigmenting: Diminishing the appearance of brown spots by inhibiting tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanogenesis, and the growth of melanocytes or providing a tanned look by stimulating the synthesis of melanin, properties determined by the concentration of the active ingredient in the formula;

  • Protector: Slowing down skin ageing by preventing skin sagging and the appearance of wrinkles through inhibition of the activity of certain matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1 and MMP-3), enzymes that degrade components of the extracellular matrix.

Usage

  • Facial Care (antioxidant creams, soothing creams, sun creams/lotions/sprays, repairing lip balms, serums, masks, makeup removers);

  • Body Care (after-sun care, sun oils, tanning dry oils);

  • Hygiene (toothpastes) ;

  • Makeups (foundation bases).

Method of Preservation

Store in a cool, dry and well-ventilated place, protected from direct sunlight, moisture and heat.

Contraindications, usage precautions

Studies have shown that glycyrrhetinic acid at concentrations up to 6% is neither irritating nor sensitising. Therefore, enoxolone is a gentle active ingredient, subject to no restrictions by European cosmetic regulations. No side effects have been reported to date following the topical application of glycyrrhetinic acid.

Find out more

Glycyrrhetinic acid, also known as enoxolone, is a pentacyclic triterpenoid of the beta-amyrin type, a component found in the root of liquorice. Traditionally used since antiquity for its therapeutic properties, liquorice originates from the Mediterranean region and West Africa. With anti-inflammatory, soothing, and anti-radical properties, glycyrrhetinic acid is found in locally applied treatments, particularly intended for sensitive to reactive skin types.