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Points noirs : ces erreurs à éviter pour en venir à bout.

Blackheads: these mistakes to avoid in order to overcome them.

Here are some common mistakes that most people make when trying to eliminate blackheads. If you manage to avoid the following errors, you can certainly maintain clear skin for as long as possible.

Mistake No. 1: Over-exfoliating your skin.

As a reminder, there are two methods: themechanical exfoliation or scrubbing and thechemical exfoliation or peeling. The difference between the two lies in the mode of action of the detachment of dead cells on the surface of the skin:

  • Generally, a chemical peel involves substances known as AHA (alpha-hydroxy acids), BHA (beta-hydroxy acids) and PHA (poly-hydroxy acids. These molecules eliminate keratinocytes by breaking the ionic bonds, thereby destabilising the horny layer and causing its gradual detachment.

  • A mechanical exfoliation or scrub detaches the dead cells from the epidermis through friction. There is no "chemical" action on the surface of the epidermis.

Even though exfoliation, whether chemical or mechanical, can truly assist in eliminating excess sebum and maintaining a tight skin texture with unclogged pores, overuse of chemical and/or mechanical exfoliating treatments can do more harm than good. Excessive exfoliation can in fact exacerbate the issue. It can worsen acne and blackheads and trigger an increased production of sebum.

The recommended frequency is as follows: once to twice a week for mechanical exfoliations and once a day for chemical exfoliations.

Mistake No. 2: Popping and fiddling with your blackheads.

Even though it may be tempting, picking and dislodging blackheads yourself remains a bad idea, despite them being unsightly and bothersome. By doing this, you not only risk exacerbating them by infecting them with the germs present on your fingers and nails, which will cause the formation of an acne spot that will become superinfected, but you also risk damaging your skin irreversibly by causing scars.

Furthermore, if the treated area has not been disinfected, this can lead to their proliferation on the skin. Additionally, as a general rule, they are either half emptied or poorly squeezed, which creates an inflammatory phenomenon. Similarly, avoid using patches to remove blackheads on the nose or chin. This method is quite harsh on the skin. If you absolutely wish to remove them, we strongly advise you to make an appointment with a dermatologist or a professional to remove them without damaging the skin with a comedone extractor.

Find here the 3 steps to follow to unclog blackheads.

Mistake No. 3: Using a blackhead vacuum when you have sensitive skin.

A blackhead vacuum applies pressure that helps to remove imperfections lodged in the pores. It usually comes with various adjustable speed nozzles that allow you to manage the degree of suction and is suitable for the T-zone of the face (forehead, nose and chin). This vacuum absorbs blackheads and purifies the skin. Most models offer variable suction intensity.

A blackhead vacuum is not recommended for individuals with thin, sensitive skin or those prone to eczema, as it can cause inflammations that could become chronic. Furthermore, this suction can be harmful to the delicate skin of the face and can lead to the appearance of telangiectasias, or "broken blood vessels", particularly on and around the nose. In such cases, it is advisable to opt for traditional exfoliation methods.

Mistake No. 4: Not removing makeup.

Removing makeup helps to prevent pore blockage. Foundation, powder, blush etc., combined with dead cells and accumulated dirt, create an opaque film on the skin's surface that clogs the pores and prevents the skin from breathing properly during your sleep. Over time, due to a lack of oxygen, the skin becomes a breeding ground for bacteria. In response, the skin will create redness, inflammation, dilate the pores releasing more sebum, which will promote the appearance of blemishes such as acne spots and blackheads.

At Typology, thecleansing oil, themicellar waterand thecleansing balmare suitable for all skin types, even the most sensitive. These treatments effectively remove makeup residues and surface impurities.

Subsequently, it is crucial to proceed to a second stage to leave the skin perfectly clean (double cleansing). In addition to the makeup remover, the use of a cleanser is also important. It will gently penetrate and remove impurities, bacteria, pollution residues, etc... that have infiltrated the pores.

Mistake No.5: Applying comedogenic skincare products.

The term "comedogenic" originates from the word "comedones" and refers to the ability of a cosmetic ingredient or a cosmetic product to block the sebaceous glands, which are responsible for the production of sebum. However, this blockage prevents the natural evacuation of sebum, which tends to cause various skin problems, such as dilated pores, open microcysts also known as blackheads or closed microcysts or whiteheads.

The concept of comedogenicity is measured on a scale from 0 to 5. A score of 0 indicates that no comedones have developed, meaning the pores are not blocked, and a score of 5 signifies a high probability that the cosmetic ingredient in question will cause comedones. The comedogenicity index of an ingredient is based, among other things, on its rate of penetration into the superficial layers of the skin and its vulnerability to oxidation. Any ingredient that has received a score of 2 or less is considered non-comedogenic.

Here is a list of ingredients to avoid, incompatible with oily or acne-prone skin, which regularly have blackheads.

  • The animal waxes: Beeswax (cire d’abeille) and Lanolin (lanoline);

  • Some mineral oils and waxes derived from hydrocarbons: Paraffinum Liquidum, Cera Microcristallina, Synthetic Wax, Petrolatum, Mineral Oil, Ceresin Wax, etc... ;

  • Some vegetable oils and butters: Triticum Vulgare or Wheat Germ Oil, Argania Spinosa (Argan Oil), Persea Gratissima (Avocado Oil), Coco Nucifera or Coconut Butter, Cocoa Butter or Theobroma Cocoa (Cocoa Butter), Butyspermum Parkii or Shea Butter, Rosa Canina or Rosehip Oil, Castor Oil, etc;

  • Some fatty esters : particularly derivatives of stearic and oleic acids or even isopropyl myristate, the unsaponifiables, squalanes and squalenes, etc...

  • The silicones : frequently found in conventional foundations due to the smooth texture with a non-greasy finish they provide, these polymers are generally very occlusive. Double-check the ingredients of your products and keep in mind that silicone can also be listed as dimethicone (or anything ending in 'cone') in the ingredient list. Be aware, certain silicones like the cyclomethicone (a mix of silicones D4, D5 and D6 in varying proportions) are recognisedendocrine disruptorss.

It should be noted: some ingredients such as alcohol are not comedogenic but are particularly drying for the skin. They are found in foundations because alcohol derivatives enhance the deposit of pigments on the skin. However, they should also be avoided if you have a lot of blackheads as they can trigger a reactive overproduction of sebum.


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