What options are available for the removal of comedones (blackheads)?

Adopting a tailored skincare routine to tackle specific concerns is the essential first step in eliminating blackheads. By consistently addressing the different mechanisms involved in the formation of open comedones — excess sebum, accumulation of dead skin cells and pore blockage — a well-designed regimen progressively helps to purify the skin and limit the recurrence of imperfections.

Step 1: Cleanse the skin.

Clean skin is an essential first step for treating the blackheads, as open comedones develop from a mix of oxidised sebum, dead cells and impurities accumulated in the pores. A daily cleanse removes excess sebum, pollution and make-up residues that promote their appearance, but should not strip the skin barrier. Blackhead cleansers must therefore be chosen with care: too harsh, they trigger sebum production through reactive hyperseborrhoea; too gentle, they allow impurities to build up. Cleansing thus provides the foundation of any treatment to remove blackheads and prepares the skin for the next steps, whether that is treating open comedones or applying a more targeted unclogging care.

Step 2: Exfoliating the skin.

To banish blackheads, daily cleansing is indispensable, but it alone is not enough. Once or twice a week, a scrub performed on clean, dry skin helps to unclog pores, remove excess dead cells from the surface and limit the formation of new open comedones. Exfoliation thus promotes cell renewal and improves skin texture, giving it a smoother, more even appearance. It should be noted that there are two main categories of exfoliants : chemical exfoliants, formulated with keratolytic agents that act on the corneocytes of the stratum corneum to aid their removal, and mechanical exfoliants, which rely on abrasive particles. Both have advantages and disadvantages, and the choice depends primarily on individual preference and how the skin responds to them.

However, this step must remain measured: scrubs that are too frequent or too abrasive can weaken the skin barrier. In response to this irritation, the skin may produce more sebum, which can paradoxically exacerbate pore blockage. That is why blackhead treatments incorporating an exfoliation must be carried out sparingly, at a frequency of once to twice per week depending on the skin’s sensitivity and type.

Tip : To facilitate exfoliation, you can take a steam bath beforehand to liquefy sebum. To do this, boil water to which you can add a few drops of tea tree essential oil, known for its purifying properties. Once the water reaches boiling point, position your face above it, covering your head with a towel, and let the steam act for about ten minutes.

Step 3: Purify and protect the skin.

Once the skin has been cleansed and exfoliated, it is possible to remove blackheads more effectively by focusing on a targeted purification phase. Purifying masks, particularly those based on clay or charcoal, absorb excess sebum, capture impurities lodged within the pores and help to tighten their appearance. Alternatively or in addition, using an exfoliating serum formulated for daily use, such as our glycolic acid serum, allows a more gradual action. This type of anti-blackhead peel promotes the shedding of dead cells that block the pores, while helping to prevent the formation of new open comedones.

Finally, for this routine to remain effective and well tolerated over time, it is essential to protect the skin after purification. The application of a moisturising cream adapted to one’s skin type restores the skin barrier, limits transepidermal water loss and prevents compensatory reactions such as excess sebum production. Properly hydrated skin is more balanced, less prone to imperfections and more receptive to the blackhead-removal steps integrated into the routine.

It is important to exercise patience: blackheads develop slowly, and their reduction generally occurs between six and eight weeks after the establishment of an appropriate skincare routine.

Beyond home-based treatments, some dermatology or aesthetic clinics offer services dedicated to the removal of blackheads. Several professional techniques exist, ranging from intensive skin cleanses to devices that combine exfoliation, suction and LED light. These approaches generally aim to unclog pores more thoroughly than standard cosmetic treatments. Among them, the HydraFacial has gradually established itself as one of the most widely used methods for improving the appearance of skin presenting open comedones.

HydraFacial is based on a three-step protocol combining a cleanse with a gentle peel, controlled suction to extract dead skin cells and sebum from the pores, and phototherapy—often blue light. A twelve-week study of twenty adults with mild to moderate acne assessed the efficacy of biweekly HydraFacial sessions, for a total of six treatments.

According to the Global Acne Severity Score scale, the proportion of patients with clear or almost clear skin increased from 20% to 65% as assessed by investigators, and from 5% to 55% by participants’ self-assessment, with overall skin improvement observed in 80% to 100% of participants.

However, the study’s methodology did not allow for the specific isolation of the progression of blackheads. Nevertheless, the authors report an overall improvement in inflammatory lesions (papules, pustules) as well as non-inflammatory lesions (open and closed comedones), which presumably includes blackheads – provided participants had them at baseline, a detail that was not specified.

Once again, patience is required: blackheads generally do not disappear after the first HydraFacial session, but often only after three to six sessions.

Another technique sometimes mentioned in clinics is microneedling which involves creating multiple superficial micro-perforations in the skin using fine needles to stimulate skin repair mechanisms and collagen production. This approach is primarily used to improve skin texture and reduce acne scars. Although it is sometimes presented as beneficial for blackheads, microneedling does not act directly on the obstruction of pores by sebum and dead cells, the processes responsible for open comedones. Furthermore, to date, no scientific data confirms the efficacy of microneedling in eliminating blackheads.

Among the other options offered in aesthetic medicine are lasers. Depending on their wavelength and mode of action, they can target excess sebum, promote controlled exfoliation or produce a thermal effect likely to tighten the pores. One study in particular evaluated an advanced optimised pulsed-light mode (AOPT-MTL) in 42 patients presenting with blackheads on the nose, treated every two to three weeks for six sessions. One month after the end of the protocol, the severity of blackheads had significantly decreased and a marked reduction in pore diameter was observed.

These results suggest that certain types of light-based technologies could represent a promising option for reducing blackheads, although further studies are still required to confirm this.

There are also several devices designed for the mechanical removal of blackheads at home, offering varying levels of efficacy and safety. The ultrasonic skin purifier, for instance, employs high-frequency vibrations to dislodge impurities and excess sebum from the surface of the pores. Used on damp skin, it can help to improve the appearance of congested areas while remaining relatively gentle, although its action remains superficial and does not replace professional extraction when comedones are deeply embedded.

Other devices rely on a suction principle, such as blackhead vacuum tools. By creating a localised negative pressure, they seek to extract the contents of clogged pores. However, their effectiveness is uneven and overuse can trigger redness, bruising or simply weaken the skin. Manual metal extractors, often employed by professionals, allow for more targeted pressure around the comedone. Nevertheless, when used incorrectly, they can damage the skin and promote inflammation as well as persistent marks.

Finally, the blackhead patches constitute a simple and rapid method for eliminating the most superficial blackheads, particularly on the nose. They work by adhering to oxidised sebum in the pore opening, which is then pulled out when the patch is removed. If the visual effect is immediate, it remains temporary, as the root cause of the blockage is not addressed, and blackhead patches can irritate the skin.

Blackheads and sebaceous filaments are often confused. Indeed, the small dark dots seen on the nose, or even on the chin, are not necessarily blackheads, even though they can appear similar. Unlike a blackhead, a sebaceous filament is a natural structure that helps sebum reach the skin’s surface. Present in everyone, these sebaceous filaments are, however, more noticeable on oily skin or on skin with relatively large pores.

Despite their sometimes unsightly appearance, sebaceous filaments are not regarded as imperfections and do not need to be removed. In addition, applying pressure to this area can weaken the pore, trigger local inflammation and promote bacterial proliferation, which increases the risk of developing an inflammatory lesion. Moreover, even when they are squeezed or extracted, the sebaceous filaments quickly reform, usually within 30 days.

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